Can I make beehives from 1x4 lumber with the same structural integrity as the normal 1x12 or close? The reason for this is to save money. At my local Menards a 6ft 1x12 cost $15.36 while 6ft 1x4 cost 1.99, this means I could purchase the necessary lumber for 1 deep box for $6. I was thinking I could stagger the joints on the sides and ends so everything is well attached. Has anyone ever done this before?
Can I make hives out of 1x4 lumber?
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David6272
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I mean I am not really concerned about the labor, as I work in the shop in my free time. I added the cost for the screws, and I am still shy of 8 dollars, half of the that of the other board. I think I will give it a shot this week.
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I make all my boxes now from recycled pallet wood, and if the timber (lumber) involved is pine, then personally I'd give it a shot without a second thought - but if we're talking some non-descript 'white wood', then I'd think twice about investing your labour on this.
The making of even just one 'test box' should tell you a lot.
'best,
LJ
The wood from Menards says it can vary between pine, spruce, and fir.I make all my boxes now from recycled pallet wood, and if the timber (lumber) involved is pine, then personally I'd give it a shot without a second thought - but if we're talking some non-descript 'white wood', then I'd think twice about investing your labour on this.
The making of even just one 'test box' should tell you a lot.
'best,
LJ
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The value of the experience will be a plus.
I believe Greg B linked to some video of gentleman in Eastern Europe who was doing, out of necessity, what you propose. He was well set up with a clamping jig to ensure board alignment and used driven wedges to get the lateral clamping pressure.
Deviations from flat, of the assembled pieces can create assembly difficulties depending on joint choice. Rabbet and finger joints are affected. Gray Goose uses plain butt joints in his home sawn lumber box construction.
Butt and pass with a joining fastener in the corner would be king in narrow board box construction.
Take some pictures and keep us updated on how it goes.
If you use the kreg jig, you don't need anything else. 2 screws per edge.
I was just looking at a box that I made that way 5 years ago. It is ljke new. Glue doesn't hurt, but it is messy and unnecessary.
The kreg jig isn't made to work with ship lap, but it probably could be adjusted to work.
It might please you to do so now, but when your children have to deal with the warped, twisted, and wiggly mess in the future, you will not like what they write on your epitaph.
We have some home made boxes with narrow boards joined, and I cuss at them every time.
Psycho Roland
We have some home made boxes with narrow boards joined, and I cuss at them every time.
Psycho Roland
Well! If you treat them like that of course they are uncooperative!
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I use mostly found wood to make boxes. I watch CL for shelving boards or beds. I use solid boards for the ends, but the sides don't support weight so I can use more than one board glue together without much issue
On the "dirt cheap" topic, Home Depot has a cull lumber cart which is usually 70% off. In many casesxit is long boards with problems you can cut around for boxes. Also plywood sheets. I got one 4x8 sheet that had been cut to length and the customer didn't but it. 70%voff and easy to fit in my van. Just need to look when you are there. I have some 1x12's in the garage I got that way for the boxes i plan to make this winter
I copied @birddog 's post because it was what I was thinking. Saw blade is usually ⅛" thick on a table saw. Rip a bunch of ⅛" thick strips and use them as your biscuit. Use lots of glue too.
Have ever noticed table tops how they are constructed? Some have a piece of wood on the ends that is perpendicular to the field. You could do this on both ends of the side boards to reduce cupping. This is the over building engineer in me coming out. The dado on the end boards should accomplish the same thing. Just make sure the joints on the sides DON'T line up with the joints on the ends.
Enjoy your time in your shop!
I have had good success with this. No problems. I suppose it makes a difference how stable the wood is.
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I glue boards together all the time. Some are not very pretty, but I don't think the bees notice.
I use water proof wood glue Gorilla Glue I think. Just take my time and make a nice box .
The bees never complained.
I use boards that were used to ship pump valves. Not the best quality,but still solid.
And they are free just for the hauling.
Good luck
I have done so many times, but your joints need to be spot on. There are two ways- more if you want fancy joinery.
First the rabbet joint. One-half of 3/4" is 3/8". If you rabbet both edges and are able to clamp the boards tightly both for the tightness of the seams and the flatness of the boards, two sections will give you 7" and three sections will give you 10 1/2". It must be glued well and allowed to set. Bear in mind one surface will have to lie on another surface so keep in mind some material will have to lie beneath the glued boards that can be easily removed.
I do it more easily by using wood biscuits and simply butt them together. The biscuit cutter will need to be set very carefully to achieve alignment of the joints. Once set the joint is very strong.
The trade off for the price difference is your labor and your skill level.
Dovetail or finger joints could also be used if your joinery skills are good enough.
Is your time in the shop worth the price differential of the material? If so, go for it!
I lurk around home construction sites. Most of the crews will let you take whatever you find in the dumpsters. I have collected a lot of very useful material that way.
Prior to the enormous inflation beginning in '21 I would watch the sale prices of the lumber dealers carefully. I have acquired a lot of material for decent prices that way. Often they will clear inventory to rotate stock.
Bear in mind this discussion is pretty well limited to hobbyists. Commercial operations exist on expenditure of time and find it much more economical to buy pre-cut box kits. They can also acquire them at wholesale prices. If you can somehow finagle a wholesale license or get someone with a license to make the purchases for you that would help you immensely.
I found the best way to get lumber is to go to an Amish saw mill, if you can find one near you, give them a try.
An addendum to consider. Using sheet stock in a Langstroth box is not advisable unless used in a Long Lang where edges can be protected.
The local commercial guy uses Advantech and makes only migratory lids out of it. I got the bright idea to use it for the entire box construction. I made a couple of dozen of both nucs and full boxes.
Some observations:
While not harmful to the bees, the composite materials make it very heavy.
It is water resistant as it is used primarily for sub floors.
It is not as permeable as plywood, and it is not receptive to wood glues. A polymer glue should be used. I joined the boxes with long gripper type wood screws.
The advantages:
Water resistant and does not delaminate easily. Edges should be sealed well.
It is flat and will not warp.
The boxes themselves are heavy, so imagine lifting one full of honey! It is a hernia in waiting.
You must use an oil based primer paint before top coating.
I have had these mixed in with common pine or Cyprus boxes. Not a single Advantech box has broken down over the last ten years!
It is pricey. I just saw 4'x8'x23/32" Advantech for around $57/sheet. One sheet can make several boxes, so it is still more economically advantageous than standard dimensional lumber.
Given the weight issue, I confine it's use to tops and bottom boards now.
I am very pleased with the nuc boxes made from it. Five frame nucs get tossed around a lot during Queen breeding. Mine have shown no evidence of wear and tear.
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Tight bond three glue is a game changer. Make sure to use glue.
Are they kiln dried or air stacked? Are they sanded and edged? I use sawmill lumber often, but have not used for bee boxes.
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