Beesource Beekeeping Forums banner

Need to seal floor on honey house

9K views 18 replies 13 participants last post by  Adam Foster Collins 
#1 · (Edited)
Need to seal floor on new honey house (with pictures)

We built a honey house this summer. We barely got it up and running. We didn't have time for the concrete to cure before we started using it. It is a 30 X 40. We also have a warming room. Still need to frame in the bathroom, closet and install the sink.

What would be the best way to clean the floor and what should we use to seal it?

Thanks,
 

Attachments

See less See more
6
#4 ·
Re: Need to seal floor on new honey house (with pictures)

Two years ago we fired up a new bottling operation.
The concrete to be coated was about 23 years old and had propolis patches and oily spots.
After watching several utube videos about floor coating I was very concerned about adhesion and bubbles in the coating.

So we rented a heavy-duty floor machine and bought the super aggressive pads.
We started out using heavy-duty degreaser in hot water, and scrubbed until the water on the floor turned chocolate brown.
Then we sucked it all up with shop vacs and did it again.
Rinsed with hot water, vacuumed it up then degreaser.
We did not get in a hurry. That floor machine and shop vacs ran for hours and hours until the water on the floor was crystal clear.
AND THE FLOOR LOOKED GREAT!!!!
After a few extra final rinses, we mixed up some acid etch crystals in water and etched the concrete.
This is critical for bonding and adhesion.
We then applied Rustolium Epoxy Shield epoxy floor coating.
Our floor is light grey / blue with the decorative chips.
It turned out 100% perfect.
We have had zero problems and absolutely love the look and how the coating feels and works.
When we open the doors and let people look (rarely) they always mention the floor.
Regardless of what system you use; take your time in preparation.
Preparation and proper application of the coating is the key.
:)
 
#10 ·
Re: Need to seal floor on new honey house (with pictures)

Two years ago we fired up a new bottling operation.
The concrete to be coated was about 23 years old and had propolis patches and oily spots.
After watching several utube videos about floor coating I was very concerned about adhesion and bubbles in the coating.

So we rented a heavy-duty floor machine and bought the super aggressive pads.
We started out using heavy-duty degreaser in hot water, and scrubbed until the water on the floor turned chocolate brown.
Then we sucked it all up with shop vacs and did it again.
Rinsed with hot water, vacuumed it up then degreaser.
We did not get in a hurry. That floor machine and shop vacs ran for hours and hours until the water on the floor was crystal clear.
AND THE FLOOR LOOKED GREAT!!!!
After a few extra final rinses, we mixed up some acid etch crystals in water and etched the concrete.
This is critical for bonding and adhesion.
We then applied Rustolium Epoxy Shield epoxy floor coating.
Our floor is light grey / blue with the decorative chips.
It turned out 100% perfect.
We have had zero problems and absolutely love the look and how the coating feels and works.
When we open the doors and let people look (rarely) they always mention the floor.
Regardless of what system you use; take your time in preparation.
Preparation and proper application of the coating is the key.
:)
How slick is the floor when there is honey on it?
 
#6 ·
Re: Need to seal floor on new honey house (with pictures)

I've used epoxy floor coatings in several garages, with excellent results. But always on well-cured and very clean concrete. The RustOLeum kits come with a mild acid wash kit. If there is any oil on the concrete it needs to be aggressively cleaned with something like TSP. I think they recommend 2 months of curing. And watch the temperature at time of application ... take the recommended temperatures seriously.

The fellow who recommended it to me had used it on a huge aircraft hangar floor. His comment was, "The only way it comes off it to take concrete with it."
 
#8 ·
Shot peen is also call shot blast. Basically small steel BB shot at the floor. I feel it is the best way. Then grinding with a Diamond floor grinder. Way at the bottom of the list would be acid cleaning. To many ways for failure. The big thing with high build epoxy's is giving the floor tooth. To grip the floor.
David painting contractor
 
#11 ·
My BIL did the dirt work.(Clay was 3-4 feet down) We ran 300+ feet of waterline, buried 6 feet down. (North Dakota) It is a stick building from Menards. We had to have 15 truckloads of sand and gravel mix hauled in for the base. We cleared the trees, did the plumbing, another BIL did a lot of the framing, we had another friend do the electrical. It ended up costing a lot more than we thought.

We got a deal on the concrete work. 6" floor for $8,000. That's about half price. I had to build the box for the honey sump. That was a pain.

You could spend 30-45,000 real easy.
 
#12 ·
Crabo, thanks for sharing the pics. I've seen a lot of great honey houses recently. Curious, at what point do most people find they need a honey house. How many pounds of honey a year (or # of hives) does having a dedicated honey house and equipment really start making sense (functionally and financially). Obvious there's a range, but curious for those that have one, when was the tipping point for you.
 
#14 ·
We needed a honey house because the equipment we bought was set up 100 miles away. That was too far to travel everyday, particularly when you add in $100 of fuel everyday to make the trip, plus 4 hours of driving. We looked at renting a building, but decided we would build at the last moment. It hurt us this year, but we are ready for next year.
 
#16 ·
Speaking as a painting contractor. The best prep is shot blasted. In my book for high $ Epoxy the only way to go. Next would be Diamond grind it. And now days most paint supply companies do not recommend acid etching. To many contaminants get left behind.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top