Considering moving from 8 frame to 10 frame
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Mooresville, NC
    Posts
    330

    Default Considering moving from 8 frame to 10 frame

    Up to this point I have built my own equipment, so changes in any direction are not too big of a deal cost-wise.

    Although, I have considered (and to some extent still am) long langstroth, I am pretty settled on the langstroth frame itself.

    I assume many of the benefits of horizontal-ness could still be accomplished with just the difference from 8-10 or possibly even 12, not the least of which might be the use of frame feeders. As well, being able to use a follower to "right size" things horizontally. Or have relative size configurations to be able to do resource hiving by doing things like 2 of some size super over top of 3 of another, or even 1 over 2 for multi-queen configurations.

    Other than the lifting considerations which seem to be the same arguments for going from deeps down to mediums, and for 10's down to 8's are there any other good reasons to not use 10 frame deep equipment?

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Hartford Ohio
    Posts
    117

    Default Re: Considering moving from 8 frame to 10 frame

    Other than the lifting considerations which seem to be the same arguments for going from deeps down to mediums, and for 10's down to 8's are there any other good reasons to not use 10 frame deep equipment?



    Man, I'm 62, that's the only reason I need,lol

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Dane County, WI, USA
    Posts
    4,262

    Default Re: Considering moving from 8 frame to 10 frame

    If you can not comfortably move the boxes around, what more reasons do you need?

    One old beekeeper said:
    "I made a lot of money. Then I spent all of it to fix my broken back and my warn-out knees."

    That simple and yet sad - to keep repeating this.
    Former "smoker boy". Classic, square 12 frame Dadants >> Long hive/Short frame/chemical-free experimentations.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    SE Michigan USDA 6a (Macomb Co.)
    Posts
    104

    Default Re: Considering moving from 8 frame to 10 frame

    Actually I have been thinking about doing the same thing, but perhaps not for the same reasons. Certainly weight is a factor to consider, but here are some other points:

    - 10f equipment is a bit more standardized, so things like excluders, feeders, etc are more common than 8f, and lower cost
    - Using deeps for the brood boxes only, they shouldn't be terribly heavy, and they are not too high off the ground
    - Honey supers mediums only
    - If you have a jammin hive with 8f mediums, the height can be excessive. I already have the stand, bottom board, slatted rack, 4 supers in the brood nest, 1 honey super, feeder-waterer, ventilation board, and the roof. I can barely reach the top
    - With 10f deeps, you only need 2 boxes for overwintering, instead of 3 mediums
    - Since 10f boxes are wider, they will resist wind loads better. I have to use ratchet straps now, but I may feel better with a more stable stack
    - When doing splits, I could use 2 frames from the deeps for walk-aways, but when I use mediums I normally use at least 3
    - Taller narrower mating boxes may be a bit warmer, so the hive can manage the brood better. With mediums they need to spread out wider, so they can't cluster as well

    I'll probably build some 10f equipment throughout the year and see how it goes. If nothing else Id like to use metal excluders instead of plastic, and they are much more common and affordable to get 10f versions.
    USDA 6a, 8 frame equipment

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Hartford Ohio
    Posts
    117

    Default Re: Considering moving from 8 frame to 10 frame

    Quote Originally Posted by hockeyfan_019 View Post
    Actually I have been thinking about doing the same thing, but perhaps not for the same reasons. Certainly weight is a factor to consider, but here are some other points:

    - 10f equipment is a bit more standardized, so things like excluders, feeders, etc are more common than 8f, and lower cost
    - Using deeps for the brood boxes only, they shouldn't be terribly heavy, and they are not too high off the ground
    - Honey supers mediums only
    - If you have a jammin hive with 8f mediums, the height can be excessive. I already have the stand, bottom board, slatted rack, 4 supers in the brood nest, 1 honey super, feeder-waterer, ventilation board, and the roof. I can barely reach the top
    - With 10f deeps, you only need 2 boxes for overwintering, instead of 3 mediums
    - Since 10f boxes are wider, they will resist wind loads better. I have to use ratchet straps now, but I may feel better with a more stable stack
    - When doing splits, I could use 2 frames from the deeps for walk-aways, but when I use mediums I normally use at least 3
    - Taller narrower mating boxes may be a bit warmer, so the hive can manage the brood better. With mediums they need to spread out wider, so they can't cluster as well

    I'll probably build some 10f equipment throughout the year and see how it goes. If nothing else Id like to use metal excluders instead of plastic, and they are much more common and affordable to get 10f versions.

    Im not seeing a big difference in price between 8 and 10, matter of fact I think more 8 frame equipment is being sold (catching on, not more than 10)

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Withee WI USA
    Posts
    96

    Default

    I think deeps make sense, I am running deeps for everything from brood chamber to honey supers. It allows for maximum flexibility and efficiency. They make tools to lift heavy things, and I plan to purchase one. An example is the Kaptarlift. https://youtu.be/pcSbmudGrwM

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    6,985

    Default Re: Considering moving from 8 frame to 10 frame

    After using 10 and 12 frame hives for 40 years I made a bunch of 8 frame. The 12 frames with Jumbo depth brood frames are a clear winner once again this year in reduced swarming leading to big crops. Brother Adam was right, Charlie B was wrong. Most of my hives are 10 frame to be in sink with local preferences.



    All of my opinions and suggestions are based on my five decades of actual beekeeping,
    not so much on book learning, watching YouTube videos nor reading internet sites.

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