Converting Medium Brood Chambers to Deeps
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
    Posts
    22

    Default Converting Medium Brood Chambers to Deeps

    'Have been using mostly 8 frame mediums for brood and supers, but started a deep 10 frame last season, and like the extra space for bees. I recently acquired a number of 8 frame deeps and want to go to deeps for brood this spring. Do not have drawn comb for the deep frames, but do have wax sheets and plasticell in abundance. I usually make some effort at rotating up the bottom empty mediums, taking 4 brood frames to create a stack of four over 4, bracketed by drawn comb and foundation on either side of both mediums to give the bees room for expansion, reducing their tendancy to think about swarming. If I could free up the mediums, I could super up without buying more woodenware. I've seen how beeks go from deep to medium, but not in reverse. Your feedback would be appreciated.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    West Bath, Maine, United States
    Posts
    2,475

    Default Re: Converting Medium Brood Chambers to Deeps

    Leave out medium frame and medium frame directly above from double stacked medium bodies. Carefully insert deep frame. May get burr but no problem.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Massillon, Ohio
    Posts
    5,604

    Default Re: Converting Medium Brood Chambers to Deeps

    I think I would put the deep with foundation right on top of the mediums to start out. When the bees move up, start drawing out comb, and the queen is laying in the deep, add a queen excluder under the deep. (make sure the queen is above the excluder)

    In a few weeks when all the bees have emerged from the mediums you can reverse all the medium boxes and put them above the deep. Then you'll have plenty of overhead room for either an unlimited broodnest, or supers.
    To everything there is a season....

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    West Bath, Maine, United States
    Posts
    2,475

    Default Re: Converting Medium Brood Chambers to Deeps

    Real world I agree with Mike, that is the simple way. If you want to speed up crossing the barrier (no drawn deep frames) or do a sort of checkerboarding, then get complicated.
    As a practical matter I would be perfectly willing to change my plans when I opened the hive depending on what I saw.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Ocala, Florida, USA
    Posts
    619

    Default Re: Converting Medium Brood Chambers to Deeps

    I moved a couple frames of medium brood up in the deep then slowly cycled it out as they drew out the deeps. I did it in more of the summer than spring. It took awhile but eventually it worked.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Great Falls Montana
    Posts
    7,824

    Default Re: Converting Medium Brood Chambers to Deeps

    I have quite a few medium frames in deep brood chambers. The bees make the medium frame the same depth as the frames beside them and after a half dozen brood cycles, they are tough enough tonot be damaged in normal handling. If you want just start adding deep frames around them in a deep box and its done.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Parkersburg, WV
    Posts
    17

    Default Re: Converting Medium Brood Chambers to Deeps

    Interesting, I have handled 10 fr and 8fr deeps, medium (Ill size) and shallow for comb honey for 50yrs. As I got older and weaker the deeps got too heavy and the mixture of sizes got to be a pain. I wanted everything to be the same size including for splits, therefore I cut the deeps to mediums and ran 3 for the bees and 1, 2; as need for honey. Still the interchange between 10 and 8's was a problem. So I cut my 75 10's down to 8's. It seems to be working for me. Several people have inticated that they are only going to run 1 deep for their hive body(HB) because the bees don't go down to bottom of the 2nd HB. Some of the reasoning I used: interchangablity, lighter equipment with honey, and more like a tree cavity??. If needed the bees will move down and seem to easier if the bottom is not to "drafty". That is not open screened bottom boards. I use screened bottom boards with a ~1/2" pan holding a greased (vasoline and MO mix) freezer paper to trap ants, cockroaches, wax moths, mites, small hive beetles; etc. must be changed out about every 3 weeks in summer = pain. I do pull my bottom insert out on a hot day (90F or higher) but generaly slide them in after dark unless the forcast is for 90's the next day. I just a hobby beekeeper and run about 40 to 50 hives at my home. Doesn't pay me to run to other locations to tend bees. Been getting 1 split maybe a swam and 60lb of honey on a strong in Apr hive and still have about 40lb for them in Oct but if necessary will feed them to get the 40lb.

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