Follow the roar
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Thread: Follow the roar

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Default Follow the roar

    2nd year- on to a new set of problems. Came home for lunch and heard a roar overhead. Saw a freeway of bees leaving my yard and making their way into the forest. I followed them to a tree where they would cluster about 15 feet off the ground. Called our local swarm catcher and paid him $20 to collect it. He skillfully captured them and they are safely boxed up on one side of a resource hive and back in my bee yard. I gave them a honey frame, a pollen frame and two extra sheets of wax foundation. They also have a quart of 1:1. One small entrance below and upper taped shut. The queen is from an exceptionally strong colony. We will see how they build out. I have some ProSweet on hand for feeding. Always wondered how you can tell when you're hive swarms. In this case listening for the roar was the first clue. Love to hear thoughts about August swarms and helping them make it through winter. Right now the plan is keep them tight and feed feed feed and watch to add 4 frames up, then consider moving them to a full hive body or leaving them to over winter in the resource hive.

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  3. #2
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    Default Re: Follow the roar

    Quote Originally Posted by LAlldredge View Post
    One small entrance below and upper taped shut. .
    If you, indeed, taped them in shut - you very well can kill them (if not already).

    Take the tape OFF.
    Staple in some screen or even mosquito netting - must have ventilation.
    Put them in shade too (if you not letting them fly).
    Former "smoker boy". Classic, square 12 frame Dadants >> Long hive/Short frame/chemical-free experimentations.

  4. #3
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    Default Re: Follow the roar

    Quote Originally Posted by GregV View Post
    If you, indeed, taped them in shut - you very well can kill them (if not already).

    Take the tape OFF.
    Staple in some screen or even mosquito netting - must have ventilation.
    Put them in shade too (if you not letting them fly).
    Just the top entrance is taped shut so they have the bottom entrance free and clear to move about and get air. I was PMing my mentor here and she said to limit the entrances to avoid reswarming and potential robbing of the honey and pollen frame. They are getting shade through midday. Should I put a screen on the upper entrance? I have the #8 hardware cloth.

  5. #4
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    Default Re: Follow the roar

    Quote Originally Posted by LAlldredge View Post
    Just the top entrance is taped shut so they have the bottom entrance free and clear to move about and get air. I was PMing my mentor here and she said to limit the entrances to avoid reswarming and potential robbing of the honey and pollen frame. They are getting shade through midday. Should I put a screen on the upper entrance? I have the #8 hardware cloth.
    Good - they are not taped-in.
    You can screen the upper entrance optionally.
    Will not hurt, but may help ventilating.

    Limiting the entrances will not affect the re-swarming in anyway; false information.
    Limiting/screening the entrances should help with robbing in general - do it anyway.
    Former "smoker boy". Classic, square 12 frame Dadants >> Long hive/Short frame/chemical-free experimentations.

  6. #5
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    Default Re: Follow the roar

    Quote Originally Posted by GregV View Post
    Good - they are not taped-in.
    You can screen the upper entrance optionally.
    Will not hurt, but may help ventilating.

    Limiting the entrances will not affect the re-swarming in anyway; false information.
    Limiting/screening the entrances should help with robbing in general - do it anyway.
    Got it. So here's the plan. I'm on the tail end of our dearth and beginning of goldenrod. Only about a pound and half of bees. Only feeding this hive. Just out of caution I'll keep the top entrance taped to keep robbing pressure off until I inspect after a week. That will give them time to settle and start building. I may screen the top to vent at that point. I'd love to open up the top entirely but want to do that cautiously because of the cluster size and the time of year. Have you had success with fall swarms or do you end up combining?

  7. #6
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    Default Re: Follow the roar

    Quote Originally Posted by LAlldredge View Post
    Got it....... Have you had success with fall swarms or do you end up combining?
    My entire current beekeeping project started 4 years ago with a smallish swarm I took of a branch on August 25 (cold and rainy day too).
    This is very late but I don't care what people say - late swarm are completely different from late splits.
    With support late swarm will do fine and then some.

    The swarm built from nothing.
    I fed them sugar non-stop; they wintered fine and gave me the resources for the next season and forward on.

    So, I will take a late swarm any day and raise them as a stand-alone unit.
    A pound plus swarm (with your help) will build up nicely for the winter - no sweat.

    Just feed them and they will do the rest due to the swarm energy momentum.
    Be careful feeding, of course.
    I never have problems feeding the nucs - just keep the feeder inside the hive to not attract the intruders.
    Former "smoker boy". Classic, square 12 frame Dadants >> Long hive/Short frame/chemical-free experimentations.

  8. #7
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    Default Re: Follow the roar

    Quote Originally Posted by GregV View Post
    My entire current beekeeping project started 4 years ago with a smallish swarm I took of a branch on August 25 (cold and rainy day too).
    This is very late but I don't care what people say - late swarm are completely different from late splits.
    With support late swarm will do fine and then some.

    The swarm built from nothing.
    I fed them sugar non-stop; they wintered fine and gave me the resources for the next season and forward on.

    So, I will take a late swarm any day and raise them as a stand-alone unit.
    A pound plus swarm (with your help) will build up nicely for the winter - no sweat.

    Just feed them and they will do the rest due to the swarm energy momentum.
    Be careful feeding, of course.
    I never have problems feeding the nucs - just keep the feeder inside the hive to not attract the intruders.
    Impressive insect. Last thing- they look great btw. Orienting, defending their small entrance and taking 1:1. This queen is a freight train. Should I switch to 2:1 or ProSweet soon or keep it to 1:1?

  9. #8
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    Default Re: Follow the roar

    Quote Originally Posted by LAlldredge View Post
    Impressive insect. Last thing- they look great btw. Orienting, defending their small entrance and taking 1:1. This queen is a freight train. Should I switch to 2:1 or ProSweet soon or keep it to 1:1?
    It has been demonstrated by now - 1:1 or 2:1 makes no practical difference for the bees (it maybe some difference in cooking for you - different recipe)
    So, I would switch to 2:1 - just because there is a good chance (mid-August now) they are trying to save some of your syrup into the winter storage.
    Help them out and don't load them up with unnecessary work - trying to dry that 1:1 to the honey consistency takes time and effort.
    Also a good idea to add food dye (green or blue) to the syrup - so you easily find it later and don't confuse for real honey.

    ProSweet?
    I don't know what that is; I don't care either.
    Former "smoker boy". Classic, square 12 frame Dadants >> Long hive/Short frame/chemical-free experimentations.

  10. #9
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    Default Re: Follow the roar

    Quote Originally Posted by GregV View Post
    It has been demonstrated by now - 1:1 or 2:1 makes no practical difference for the bees (it maybe some difference in cooking for you - different recipe)
    So, I would switch to 2:1 - just because there is a good chance (mid-August now) they are trying to save some of your syrup into the winter storage.
    Help them out and don't load them up with unnecessary work - trying to dry that 1:1 to the honey consistency takes time and effort.
    Also a good idea to add food dye (green or blue) to the syrup - so you easily find it later and don't confuse for real honey.

    ProSweet?
    I don't know what that is; I don't care either.
    It's like a syrup already, here let Kamon explain it.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Al7Rzb7SUfo&t=187s
    NCSBA Certified Beekeeper - my Youtube Vlog
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4y..._as=subscriber

  11. #10
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    Default Re: Follow the roar

    ProSweet?
    I don't know what that is; I don't care either.[/QUOTE]

    ProSweet = already inverted, can go immediately to stores, less work, fattens bees.

  12. #11
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    Default Re: Follow the roar

    Less work for the bees.
    More money from me.
    Well, the bees can work then to pay their rent.
    Former "smoker boy". Classic, square 12 frame Dadants >> Long hive/Short frame/chemical-free experimentations.

  13. #12
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    Default Re: Follow the roar

    Quote Originally Posted by GregV View Post
    Well, the bees can work then to pay their rent.
    I'm definitely keeping my day job. Made some big mistakes last year that I'm trying to correct this year. One of them was heavy predation from YJ's (added robbing screens) and not feeding enough to make it to weight. MannLake just had a sale on 5 gallon pails of ProSweet. I bought it just in case I need to do some late feeding to beef them up without making them do too much to reduce moisture content.

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