It is not really about believing or not believing conventional wisdom but more of questioning some of this stuff that has come down over the years. It is by questioning and testing these beliefs that we learn and come to conclusions. As for this swarming subject, I have purchased breeder queens for traits like mite resistance and non swarming traits and yet they die from PMS if mites are not kept in check and they eventually try to swarm when the conditions for them are right. The only queens I have that have not swarmed are the ones with clipped wings, and they did not swarm cause they could not fly. Sometimes the rest of the hive swarmed and settled only to find that they did not have a queen with them and after a while all returned to the hive.
I don't know if it would help or hinder - but it could be useful to look at honeybee behaviour in two distinctly separate ways: hard and soft.
What I would call 'hard' behaviours are examples like the collecting of pollen and nectar, and of building comb - and the myriad behaviours which are associated with them. These are not random behaviours, but very purposeful indeed, and are - for all intents and purposes - 'hard-wired' into the honeybee's DNA. There's nowhere else for these instructions to be held and passed on from one generation to the next, as we know that bees do not learn these skills from one another. Swarming is but another example of such 'hard-wired' behaviour.
But we can select to avoid certain behaviours such as over-defensiveness and following, and perhaps select to optimise grooming and other hygienic traits - these are short-term behaviour changes which I would call 'soft', meaning that such changes are only temporary, and require constant human reinforcement if they are to persist. Failure to do this will cause the bee to revert to it's wild-type 'hard-wired' behaviour - whatever that happens to be for that particular sub-type.
I would say that it may well be possible to breed a bee in which swarming only takes place as a last resort - but that such breeding would of necessity be 'soft': such that if the breeding program for this was not maintained, then the bee would revert to it's default 'hard-wired' natural swarming behaviour.
At the risk of stating the obvious, the difference between hard and soft is that of time: natural behaviours have taken millions of years to have become 'hard-wired' into the honeybee's DNA, and it would therefore presumably take many thousands of years to modify any of them in a significant or lasting way. Changes that we may be able to create within a few generations must therefore always be considered 'soft' and thus transitory - unless we are prepared to invest monumental efforts in the pushing of water uphill - and then trying to keep it there ...
A Heretics Guide to Beekeeping http://heretics-guide.atwebpages.com/
Thank you for the link to the discussion about Snelgrove boards. Is this the technique where you split the queen out and place her on top of the hive over a double screen board, letting the bottom hive raise a new Queen, and then putting the honey suppers below the double screen, and then toggling the pegs every 2 weeks so as to trick the bees into moving into the bottom box? Do you have to keep the old queen split off the original hive for 16 days until a new Queen has been raised? Will the bottom hive will raise a new queen if the old queen is placed above the hive right away. I remember being told that in this technique you split the old queen off with only capped brood? What is the reason for that? It appears that the book link that you mentioned is no longer active but I did see that the book can be purchased on Amazon.
It not only tells you the moves to make but explains the reasoning behind it. Trying to memorize the moves without understanding why will make your head ache! If you take three or four hours to get the idea firmly in your head the door manipulations become easy.