Drilling holes in boxes... - Page 2
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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    ElDorado,Arkansas,USA
    Posts
    1,555

    Default Re: Drilling holes in boxes...

    I have started using those round entrance gates with a 1" hole in my boxes towards the top.You can dial it wide open or close it down some,dial to the vent with small holes to the queen excluder entrance or dial it completely closed if I need to.I wish I had of started using them 39 years ago.

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  3. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Massillon, Ohio
    Posts
    5,532

    Default Re: Drilling holes in boxes...

    Quote Originally Posted by trishbookworm View Post
    , where do the bees put the brood relative to the hole?
    In the 10 frame brood boxes the entrance hole is on the long side of the box, perpendicular to the frames. From the entrance side inward it typically follows this pattern.

    The 1st frame is either all honey or drone brood. I intentionally leave a large comb frame at the entrance and on the opposite side of the box for raising drones in the spring months.
    2nd, and sometimes the 3rd frame as well, are mainly pollen stores.
    The next several frames will be brood.
    The frame on the opposite side of the entrance will be drone brood, honey stores, or sometimes empty depending on the season.

    This pattern will be pretty consistent in 2 or 3 mediums in the brood area.

    I guess the short answer is that generally the bees tend to have most of the brood in the 1/2 closest to the entrance.
    To everything there is a season....

  4. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    carney, maryland, USA
    Posts
    1,262

    Default Re: Drilling holes in boxes...

    I don't grasp the context of your post, but if you are thinking of drilling holes for ventilation or upper entrance, I would build a shim with a suitable hole(s) (made of 1x2 or other small size lumber) instead.

  5. #24
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Grand Rapids MI USA
    Posts
    1,425

    Default Re: Drilling holes in boxes...

    I use the 1” holes with tapered corks (none,half or whole depending on hive strength). The bees show their displeasure if I leave them in to long by chewing the ends off, that convinces me that they want a entrance otherwise they’d propolize it shut.
    Rod

  6. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    havana fl
    Posts
    1,400

    Cool Re: Drilling holes in boxes...

    Quote Originally Posted by rwlaw View Post
    I use the 1” holes with tapered corks (none,half or whole depending on hive strength). The bees show their displeasure if I leave them in to long by chewing the ends off, that convinces me that they want a entrance otherwise they’d propolize it shut.
    so i have holes in most of me boxes and bottom entrances (gets hot in Fl ) I have noticed that incoming bees with pollen or nectar use the middle and upper entrances (holes) but most of the bees leaving go out the bottom entrance I wonder if coming in dropping their load in the upper boxes is faster than going up through the hive but on the way down through the hive they are letting the rest of the bees know where the source is . Oh and I use blue painters tape to close them up when needed not the most Attractive but Im not ether :-)
    Iím really not that serious

  7. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Delhi, Delaware Cty, New York, USA
    Posts
    1,511

    Default Re: Drilling holes in boxes...

    My boxes have holes, some with little landing boards/pieces of wood nailed under the hole (not all have this). They are only on the front of the boxes, no particular location. They get plugged with corks or sticks or tape if needed. Unlimited broodnest. I have no complaints about having them, they are used by the bees all the time so they seem to like them. No skunk problems. Also use 9 frames in 10 frame hive in every box. Deb

    I did read something about this on Rusty Burlews site a few years ago, I donít know if she still uses them. Deb
    Western Catskill Mountains
    Proverbs 16:24

  8. #27
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Bedford Co. TN
    Posts
    8

    Default Re: Drilling holes in boxes...

    We are in Tn and have major moisture and heat problems too. One solution is to put a couple of nickles on one side of the the top of the inner cover so the lid does not fit so snugly. I do construction and ridge vents on houses are better than the cut out vents on your roof. The nickles provide the same type of ventilation. Make sure you put them on top of the inner cover not under it. The bees can usually force the hive beetles up through hole in the inner cover if strong enough and can guard just the inner cover hole area for beetles. Nickles are great because they are removable if needed. Any time I see moisture on the hive top I put a nickle or it might be a penny or dime depending on the change I have in my pocket at the time. The nickle trick came from an experienced beekeeper when I presented him with moisture/ventilation question. My thanks to him for passing down wonderful advice freely.

  9. #28
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Hot Springs, AR, USA
    Posts
    19

    Default Re: Drilling holes in boxes...

    Quote Originally Posted by pjigar View Post
    I will have to try the cork idea. I have too many corks at hand from all those wine bottles I drank already!
    If you use wine corks get a 13/16 paddle bit .

  10. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Great Falls Montana
    Posts
    7,786

    Default Re: Drilling holes in boxes...

    What size duct tape?

  11. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Garden City S, NY
    Posts
    74

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cloverdale View Post
    My boxes have holes, some with little landing boards/pieces of wood nailed under the hole (not all have this). They are only on the front of the boxes, no particular location. They get plugged with corks or sticks or tape if needed. Unlimited broodnest. I have no complaints about having them, they are used by the bees all the time so they seem to like them. No skunk problems. Also use 9 frames in 10 frame hive in every box. Deb

    I did read something about this on Rusty Burlews site a few years ago, I don’t know if she still uses them. Deb
    Rusty did post about this. She referenced a long time NYPD beekeeper who has used these entrances for years. His take was why force a forager to enter down below only to have to climb her way through one or two brood boxes and possibly some supers. Every second saved means nectar can be dropped off quicker. Shaving 30 seconds to a minute off thousands of bees delivery time can really add up. Like you did, he adds a small landing board under each hole so the they can enter in a more orderly fashion. Here’s the link to the post: https://honeybeesuite.com/surplus-se...ith-platforms/

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