mike syracuse ny
Whatever you subsidize you get more of. Ronald Reagan
Also, again, any hives that showed ANY sign of EFB were scorched, wax cut out and burned and frames scorched as well (I'm foundationless).
I had EFB several years ago in a minor way but haven't seen it since. Same equipment so I think I have more or less tolerant stock. At least that is my hope I guess. I have not used an antibiotic in years Though I wish I had ratholed a few pounds of tylosin. It really worked.
I have been referred to articles on sanitizing comb of EFB bacteria by exposure to the fumes of glacial acetic acid. The suggestion is to stack supers of extracted frames enclosed in tightly sealed large plastic bags with a dish of the pure acetic acid in each stack. Any experience on this?
In Canada Glacial Acetic seems to be rather difficult for an individual to purchase and have shipped. Was wondering if Formic acid vapor would be similarly effective. It is readily available through beekeeping suppliers and perhaps through feed stores as it is sometimes used to wilt haylage. I have seen many empty barrels with that label on them.
I would like to avoid loseing all my drawn super frames but also dont want to waste time and effort with partial measures and eventually have to bite that bullet anyways.
Have tried. Frames quickly infected otherwise clear colonies.
This thread reminded me to pick up a couple EFB test kits while I was getting other supplies at Betterbee yesterday. Everyone should have some on hand just in case so you can more quickly determine a course of action and hopefully contain it. J
I have to thank Flowerplanter's posts drawing attention to EFB, then Enjambres sharing her experience has been a great focus on the issue, that I think in many cases has slipped through the cracks undiagnosed.
Brood combs. Don't remember if they had pollen. They probably did.
Here is a NZ bit on sterilizing boxes in a wax dipper
My garden torch probably does the job just fine: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00282LP..._C1dICbWXJYTMA
These things are gnarly! I can turn a box jet black in about 20 seconds while burning away any propolis and wax left in the box. It's the fastest and most economical way I have found.
I'd love to have a giant wax dipper, but I barely have space as it is - and only having a couple dozen hives, it's never made sense for me.
Yes to that torch. I have something similar that is good for the hive bodies and bottom boards etc., but find that a small hand held propane torch is good for separately doing the frame rest areas of the box without eroding the edges too much.
A 45 gallon barrel with the end cut out and a wood fire is good for doing the metal queen excluders. Cleaning up a whole hive and all contents without contaminating anything else or exposing trash to bees is quite a logistics problem!
And luckily I don't use any queen excluders so I've never needed to clean them, but it's good to know I can just burn them up if needed - much like my boxes.
Oh for sure, point was some one with a dipping tank might be a good bit closer and cheaper then some were with a gamma what ever for many people.and only having a couple dozen hives, it's never made sense for me.
BTW got to ask, your avatar... long or short fins?
>In Canada Glacial Acetic seems to be rather difficult for an individual to purchase and have shipped.
Probably because it freezes at 62 F (16.6 C)... does it ever get warm enough to thaw glacial acetic acid in Canada?
There does seem to be more EFB lately than we saw 20 years ago, but I also think a lot of what people are calling EFB is actually not. I think it's some kind of idiopathic brood disease. Meaning we don't know the cause. It looks somewhat similar to EFB but not exactly. I think some of the supply places have EFB tests.
[QUOTE=msl;1705247]Oh for sure, point was some one with a dipping tank might be a good bit closer and cheaper then some were with a gamma what ever for many people.
The dipping tank would be nice but pricey and somewhat hazardous. Really, I think flame scorching of boxes, tops, bottoms etc., is relatively easy and effective. The valuable and pricey part is what to do with drawn comb frames. They are not even easy to dispose of without creating further contamination and more work than it is worth.
We see it somewhat regularly. We have tested some and about 3/4 of what I visually identify tests positive responds to antibiotics, returns regularly and infects other colonies when frames are spread. About half or more of those who show it in the late winter or summer can be treated with otc, recover and produce the next season. About half the time it will show up again in those colonies. If i stopped using otc preventatively I figure we would need to shut down 20% of our colonies by mid april. The "shook swarm method" works about half the time with these colonies. For me it is probably either use otc or destroy infected colonies. I suppose with a little more work I could start enough on new equipment to replace the infected ones each year. May be the same situation as folks with afb which I have never seen.
A whole lot in your post echoes my present experience. I wont be repopulating anything now except scorched boxes and new bare foundation frames.
I have asked a few times and no takers about whether contaminated bees and comb is the only natural repository of the bacteria or whether it can be in soil and ditches in the yard and surroundings. I have not come up with anything written about it either.
I run foundationless so I've also resorted to scorching the frames after cutting out the wax to be melted or burned. I have an old deep that has become my "burning box". I'll put 5 frames in the box and use my garden torch to blacken in, then slide another one over and repeat. These torches are serious business and can turn wood bright red within seconds.
Also, I'm finding the bees really take to the burned wood very well...probably something about them preferring hollowed out trees, most likely by fire.