Bee Escape Not Working - Page 2
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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Santa Fe, NM, U.S.
    Posts
    256

    Default Re: Bee Escape Not Working

    Some hive just do not want to give up what they consider their resources... can't really blame them.

    I set my wet boxes from last pull, back up over light hives and they clean them up nice.
    This year I had two hives refuse to leave the 'last box' above the crown board.
    Eventually, on a night it was to hit 37ish F, I just tipped the box up (one hour from sunset-don't need robbing) and stood it on end so the bottom lined up with the hand hole in the crown board.
    Two hours after dark I checked, yup two girls were nasonoving like mad! In the morning no one was in the box.

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  3. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    SW CT
    Posts
    84

    Default Re: Bee Escape Not Working

    Quote Originally Posted by Fivej View Post
    Asking the obvious, but did you place the triangle board with triangle down? No answer as to why they won't move unless your board was not orientated correctly. But I will say that it usually takes 2 days for most of mine to move down with a triangle escape. J
    Yes and I also tried using the other type of escape as well and it worked well on the other hive, but this hive did not want to move down. Same issue two years in a row with the same hive. This hive has overwintered the last two years if that means anything.

  4. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Deep Brook, NS, Canada
    Posts
    599

    Default Re: Bee Escape Not Working

    Quote Originally Posted by sr73087 View Post
    I actually had the queen excluder still on with the porter style escape and took it off with the triangle, with the same results. The excluder was never removed since the supers have been on. There are bees in the supers and deeps.

    Not too much buzzing, only when I pulled off the inner cover while it was alittle cold the other morning. Would they normally requeen this late?
    The odd queen will get through a queen excluder, but if she's up there, you should see some brood in the supers. If there's brood, the bees won't leave. I had a queen get through the Cloake Board last Summer and tear down 10 beautiful queen cells.
    I would shake them all down at this point. If you have brood in the super, put it on above a queen excluder and the nurse bees will be up within the hour to hatch the brood. Then try the escape board once the brood is hatched.
    I want bees that make up for my mistakes.

  5. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    SW CT
    Posts
    84

    Default Re: Bee Escape Not Working

    Thanks gnor. I shook them down on Monday, but just trying to figure out what I did wrong or why this would happen. In hindsight, I think just throw the escape on, wait like 2 days and if it doesn't work, brush/shake them down. I personally just hate aggravating them so much, especially this time of the year, hence why I would rather use the escape. They definitely were not happy that I was pulling things apart, especially on a fairly crisp morning. They actually stung me for the 1st time in a long time through my sweatpants.

    I did not see any brood. Just a small amount of uncapped honey and I left those frames out for them to take/cleanup. Amazing how quickly they clean everything out when you leave them out front of the hive.

  6. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    53,885

    Default Re: Bee Escape Not Working

    Two risks with doing an escape. First if there is any hole 1/6" or larger robbers may steal all the honey. Second, if it takes more than a day or two the small hive beetles may lay a lot of eggs in the supers.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 42y 40h 39yTF

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