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Thread: Roughing It

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Dane County, WI, USA
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    3,520

    Default Re: Roughing It

    If the essence of this topic is to actually increase degree of propolization of the nest (but not yet try another tweak at the carpentry), I say reconsider this entire thing.
    I have plenty of propolization as it is without any tweaks.

    Consider - touching top bars will cause bees to propolise entire "ceiling" of the nest. They really like to glue those top bars together so much so that the bars' wood is no longer touching.
    Also consider - if top bars are not touching by design, cover them with a burlap (or something similar).
    The burlap will be quickly propolised really, really heavily (again, creating a propolised ceiling).
    Before bees will ever propolise any wall, they would rather propolise the ceiling first - because this is where the most energy escapes and bees want to control that.

    So, what is it you really want?
    Another carpentry tweak to play with (also fine if so) or to actually have more propolise in the nest?
    Former "smoker boy". Classic, square 12 frame Dadants >> Long hive/Short frame/chemical-free experimentations.

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  3. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Pueblo, Colorado, USA
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    1,527

    Default Re: Roughing It

    Quote Originally Posted by Tim KS View Post
    Pick out the roughness you desire and buy & glue sandpaper to the inside of your hives.
    Lol now that's funny

    Every one of my brood boxes is propolized on every interior surface. Honey boxes not so much but as the boxes get older the more they get coated.

    The bees will propolize over shellac but not over paint in my hives.
    Zone 5 @ 4700 ft. High Desert

  4. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    England, UK
    Posts
    1,818

    Default Re: Roughing It

    Quote Originally Posted by GregV View Post
    Before bees will ever propolise any wall, they would rather propolise the ceiling first - because this is where the most energy escapes and bees want to control that.
    I suspect this statement - as true as it is - will fall upon deaf ears by those who swear by upper entrances, and by those who use quilts.

    Indeed, propolis is conventionally harvested by placing plastic mesh or woven mosquito netting mesh above the combs, waiting until the bees seal that mesh, then flexing it to recover the propolis. With Top Bar hives, the bars are separated slightly, so that the bees are then motivated to seal-up those cracks. The propolis is then recovered by physical scraping. https://scialert.net/fulltext/?doi=je.2012.274.281

    If you want propolis in large quantities, then surfaces above the nest are indeed the places to be concentrating on.
    LJ
    A Heretics Guide to Beekeeping http://heretics-guide.atwebpages.com/

  5. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Whangarei, Northland, New Zealand
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Cool discussion, would the expectation also be that the box’s would last longer with the additional propolis coating?

  6. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    NW Florida
    Posts
    1,171

    Default Re: Roughing It

    Quote Originally Posted by little_john View Post
    I suspect this statement - as true as it is - will fall upon deaf ears by those who swear by upper entrances, and by those who use quilts.
    LJ
    Not deaf ears around here. I put in upper entrance holes for that very reason. Climate zones make a big difference. Too much heat and moisture is a much bigger issue here than cold.

    I'm interest to see what happens if the op gets them to coat the inside of the boxes.
    Beek since 2016: Hardiness Zone 9a: in NW Florida

  7. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    England, UK
    Posts
    1,818

    Default Re: Roughing It

    Quote Originally Posted by Jadeguppy View Post
    Not deaf ears around here. I put in upper entrance holes for that very reason. Climate zones make a big difference. Too much heat and moisture is a much bigger issue here than cold.
    I've often heard of this approach being adopted - but only in America.

    Earlier today I was looking at a few videos of an operation based in Kenya, which is much closer to the equator than Florida, and thus (I assume) much hotter. They run three types of hive there: the Kenyan Top Bar Hive, the Langstroth, and a hive they call the 'Tabuzi', which looks to be either a Langstroth derivative, or perhaps a large Langstroth-based Nucleus Box mounted on a pole or tall stand as defence against honey-badgers. What these three types of hive have in common is that they are all run with sealed tops and bottom entrances.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YiPn5Lu4exI
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPoDgrbZakk
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEXEh_sAuxM
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbuAmkp7FRU
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhD7AABZrV0

    There's a fair amount of repetition in the videos, and some of their beekeeping techniques leave quite a lot to be desired - but hopefully they'll prove of some interest - if only for comparison. And - those African guys could seriously improve their lives from the purchase of a few uncapping knives !
    LJ
    A Heretics Guide to Beekeeping http://heretics-guide.atwebpages.com/

  8. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Landing, NJ, USA
    Posts
    1,026

    Default Re: Roughing It

    A gadget called a toothed plane would do a fine job of roughening the inside of a box. Unfortunately they are expensive woodworking tools. Some sort of toothed scraper that you fabricate would work. A new sharp metal horse curry might work.
    Bill

  9. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Pueblo, Colorado, USA
    Posts
    1,527

    Default Re: Roughing It

    Simply wetting the surface of a board will raise the grain.
    Zone 5 @ 4700 ft. High Desert

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