Entrance Reducer...
Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    CLARION, PENNSYLVANIA, USA
    Posts
    59

    Question Entrance Reducer...

    I presently have my entrance reducer set at the 3”-4” opening…

    With all the activities because of the warmer weather, the bees seem to be crawling over top of each other and sometimes there are so many there that the entrance is blocked. Is there any advantage to removing the entire entrance reducer?...

    Or should that not be done?...

    Thanks…

  2. Remove Advertisements
    BeeSource.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Decatur / Cullman, also. 35603
    Posts
    831

    Default Re: Entrance Reducer...

    If you opened it up all the way, for sure I would put a robber screen in place. Im.not sure I'd open it up all the way though, mabye 1/2 . I'd still do a robber screen though. Good luck

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Aylett, Virginia
    Posts
    4,560

    Default Re: Entrance Reducer...

    Lots of opinions on this subject. Some people refer to them as honey reducers. I don't think so. When bees choose a site, often the entrance is quite small. The 4" opening is just about right and does help cut down on robbing once the flow stops. I used to be a wide open in the summer guy but experience has shown me otherwise.
    Thankfully, the bees are smarter than I am. They are doing well, in spite of my efforts to help them.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Shelby, Missouri USA
    Posts
    526

    Default Re: Entrance Reducer...

    I also like to leave just a 4" opening for the bottom entrance. The bees seem to do just fine with that amount of entrance.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    1,472

    Default Re: Entrance Reducer...

    4 inch works well at my local

    Try two 2 inch side entrances. It seems to keep bottom of center frames warmer and colony will keep brood lower in the two deeps. There is less problems with brood in honey supers when no excluder is being used.
    Zone 3b. If you always do what you always did, you'll always get what you always got!

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Red Bud, IL, USA
    Posts
    1,810

    Default Re: Entrance Reducer...

    My bottom entrances are fixed at 4 1/2" but I also run about a 3" top entrance but use of either or both is mixed without a problem.
    “The single biggest problem with communication is the illusion that it has taken place.” -George Bernard Shaw

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Shelby, Missouri USA
    Posts
    526

    Default Re: Entrance Reducer...

    Quote Originally Posted by mgolden View Post
    4 inch works well at my local

    Try two 2 inch side entrances. It seems to keep bottom of center frames warmer and colony will keep brood lower in the two deeps. There is less problems with brood in honey supers when no excluder is being used.
    That is an interesting idea. I have not heard that used. Being you are from Canada, I assume you are not running screen bottom boards. Is my assumption correct? I wonder how that idea would work in my area where it can get to over 95 degrees F on a regular basis.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Hubert, North Carolina
    Posts
    380

    Default Re: Entrance Reducer...

    All my entrances are in the dead-center, big enough to get my oxalic acid vaporizer in without having to remove the entrance reducer. That use to be a pain.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Rensselaer County, NY, USA
    Posts
    5,536

    Default Re: Entrance Reducer...

    If you think they need a little more room, angle the reducer out slightly, say 15 -20 degrees.

    Mine stay mostly at the 4" size, except during some days of an early strong flow when the bee population and foraging is at the max when I pull it out to let in more bees and airflow. When things slow down, I just push it back in so it's once again flush with the front of the hive.

    I almost never have the entrance completely open.

    Bees with screened bottom boards may have to work harder to circulate the cooling, and evaporating, air within the hives compared to colonies with sold floors. Mine have both, stacked up, for that reason.

    Nancy

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •