Horizontal deep hives - Page 3
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  1. #41
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    Default Re: Horizontal deep hives

    Yesterday was splitting a hive and took few pics.
    Here is one to show what kinds of hacks are possible in horizontal hive - no sweat.
    It all works. No need to worry of millimeters and the like stuff.
    20180708_162102.jpg
    Former "smoker boy". Classic, square 12 frame Dadants >> Long hive/Short frame/chemical-free experimentations.

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  3. #42

    Default Re: Horizontal deep hives

    Perfect timing GregV...I just got my E-mail notification that my 1st Layens frames have shipped.
    I was too concerned about "bee space" and wanted to have them handy before I "button up" my prototype...lol...
    You are setting my mind at ease Amigo!!!
    I have decided on 2: inch & 1/4 entrance holes on each long end, ( 4 total), and 2-4: 1/2 inch auxiliary entrance/ ventilation holes up high that the Girls can propolize if needed. (control of the bottom entrance's with galvanized disks)...
    Since my hives will be so deep, I will add open frames on the bottom, ( like your picture ), so they can build to their hearts desire...
    When I get further along in my build...and "purty" them up some...I hope to post pictures here...
    Quote Originally Posted by GregV View Post
    Yesterday was splitting a hive and took few pics.
    Here is one to show what kinds of hacks are possible in horizontal hive - no sweat.
    It all works. No need to worry of millimeters and the like stuff.
    20180708_162102.jpg

  4. #43
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    Dec 2017
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    Default Re: Horizontal deep hives

    Quote Originally Posted by Claytone View Post
    ..
    I have decided on 2: inch & 1/4 entrance holes on each long end, ( 4 total), and 2-4: 1/2 inch auxiliary entrance/ ventilation holes up high that the Girls can propolize if needed. ..
    Unsure what you mean by "each long end".
    Here is what I suggest - see picture.
    This way the entrances are both asymmetric and looking at the same side.
    This way I stand on the other side when I am working bees.
    The red dots - extra upper entrances I still mean to drill but holding out yet, until I get a better idea how it works on my junky temp hives.

    20180708_165231.jpg

    The blue entrance on the picture - main; bees works through it; brood nest is there.
    The white entrance on the picture - secondary; bees only use it for ventilation.
    They never fly from/to there.

    How so you may ask?
    Well, because I only fully unplugged the white door in July when it became hot here.
    It was fully plugged until sometimes in June when first became hot; then partially unplugged; now fully unplugged.
    Basically the entire hive knows the blue door as the main door.
    The nest is asymmetric and located behind the blue door because the brood will always be close to the entrance.
    And so you have it - brood section is mostly separate from the honey section.

    Whatever is behind the white door - honey only and space for bees to hang out.

    It is storage too - the white door side!
    I just today pulled the follower board because I want them to start dumping honey there.
    Until today, I was storing honey frames for my nucs there - clean and safe.
    Bees guard the honey frames really well from any pests.

    Yesterday I completed my final splits and gave them honey frames from the main chest.
    The main chest is now refilled by empty and partial frames for new crop (behind the white door, again).

    Starting today, I am not even going to open the darn thing for a couple of month (extra bees/extra brood are gone to splits to worry of swarming and such).
    This 20 deep frame rig will be my main honey hive for the season if the plans pans out.
    The rest is a bunch of splits.
    Let them just load up the darn thing and see what they can do for me.
    Last edited by GregV; 07-09-2018 at 07:08 PM.
    Former "smoker boy". Classic, square 12 frame Dadants >> Long hive/Short frame/chemical-free experimentations.

  5. #44

    Default Re: Horizontal deep hives

    Sorry that I was unclear...Yes: asymmetric with vent holes above...
    Looking at your front entrances, perhaps only one entrance is needed though...(1 & 1/4 inch instead of 6-8 half inch?)...kind of simulating a knot hole in a downed log. The last time I checked on my feral bees in the wilderness though, they seemed to prefer a vertical "slit" instead of a knothole in hollow trees...I will double check when the weather & TICKS are more benign...lol...
    I think I remember where they all are...:-)
    19 layens frames enroute but will have to order more later...

  6. #45
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    Default Re: Horizontal deep hives

    Quote Originally Posted by Claytone View Post
    Sorry that I was unclear...Yes: asymmetric with vent holes above...
    Looking at your front entrances, perhaps only one entrance is needed though...(1 & 1/4 inch instead of 6-8 half inch?)...kind of simulating a knot hole in a downed log. The last time I checked on my feral bees in the wilderness though, they seemed to prefer a vertical "slit" instead of a knothole in hollow trees...I will double check when the weather & TICKS are more benign...lol...
    I think I remember where they all are...:-)
    19 layens frames enroute but will have to order more later...
    IF I do drill my mother rig, this will only be 1/2" holes.
    Exactly as marked.
    But as I observe this rig so far, unsure if this is needed even.
    The primary/secondary entrances work well already.

    One important reason for the upper holes in my temp hives - those I put onto remote yards.
    So, I do have animals there and need options using upper holes then.
    This mother rig is my backyard base only - no animals.
    Former "smoker boy". Classic, square 12 frame Dadants >> Long hive/Short frame/chemical-free experimentations.

  7. #46
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    Default Re: Horizontal deep hives

    With this particular frame design (two cross bars) foundation-less comb are likely to turn out really nice.
    Best to have a fresh swarm to build them (almost no drone combs).
    20180710_145617.jpg

    Also few pics where I recycle variety of comb cuts back into the hives.
    20180708_140611.jpg
    20180708_144305.jpg
    20180708_144619.jpg
    Last edited by GregV; 07-10-2018 at 11:21 PM.
    Former "smoker boy". Classic, square 12 frame Dadants >> Long hive/Short frame/chemical-free experimentations.

  8. #47
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    Default Re: Horizontal deep hives

    Have a fresh split in 16-framer so about a half-hive is empty.
    Just took a pic as was refreshing the crush-and-strain byproduct in the tray (they are cleaning the stuff nice and dry for me).

    I use the empty half for comb storage (bees are watching after it) and as a secure feedlot for the bees.
    All thanks to the 2 inch under frame space and a passable follower board.
    Works great.
    20180712_155204.jpg
    Former "smoker boy". Classic, square 12 frame Dadants >> Long hive/Short frame/chemical-free experimentations.

  9. #48

    Default Re: Horizontal deep hives

    Those girls love "beeing" your cleanup crew!!! LOL...
    A minimum of 2 inchs under frame space sounds great, is there a maximum that you would recommend?
    My layens frames should arrive today, so I will have a better "feel" for my first build!!!

    ( I am still trying to decide on a top...telescoping? hinged? Maybe just metal with a brick...)
    If I am not too careful I will build them a Beverly Hillbilly Mansion complete with a "cement pond"...

  10. #49
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    Default Re: Horizontal deep hives

    Quote Originally Posted by Claytone View Post
    Those girls love "beeing" your cleanup crew!!! LOL...
    A minimum of 2 inchs under frame space sounds great, is there a maximum that you would recommend?
    My layens frames should arrive today, so I will have a better "feel" for my first build!!!

    ( I am still trying to decide on a top...telescoping? hinged? Maybe just metal with a brick...)
    If I am not too careful I will build them a Beverly Hillbilly Mansion complete with a "cement pond"...
    I just try for 2 inch space and will err on the larger side (not smaller).
    It is always better to have just a hair more space under frames than a "not enough just a hair".
    Don't particularly care of exact measurements either - this is a horizontal hive; not a vertical stack where tolerances are important.
    Don't worry of any burr combs down there - those are issues created by shallow Lang boxes/frames with no under-frame air buffer.

    Tops - mine are telescoping for now.
    I can easily convert them into hinged IF really want but I don't for now.
    Main reason against hinged (for me) - I am a mobile keeper and need to be able to move any hive anywhere anytime.
    This means a hinged top can be a liability sometimes as it requires a space to swing up.
    Just as we speak, one of my hives is sitting directly under an apple tree and no space to swing up.
    I just pick up a cover and slide it out. Naturally, the covers must be comfortably light to telescope.

    Another reason for the telescoping covers - those are my mobile work tables.
    For example, I can drop it down anywhere in field and work a comb cut-out directly on a cover.
    Or I can flip the cover the other way and throw stuff into it.
    So this "work table" feature is great for a mobile keeper when need to improvise.

    IF have a comfortable permanent yard (a spacious backyard, for example) - consider hinged.
    I would do hinges if had a huge backyard (unfortunately, I don't).

    Cleanup crew - for sure.
    All winter long I was crushing/straining honey from the dead outs.
    So I got bags and bags of crushed and sticky wax just sitting there.
    Now I go through them and gradually have the splits clean this wax.
    Having a smallish split in a large hive makes a cleanup to be stupid easy project (win-win for me and the bees).
    Former "smoker boy". Classic, square 12 frame Dadants >> Long hive/Short frame/chemical-free experimentations.

  11. #50
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    Default Re: Horizontal deep hives

    Here is an interesting video (non-English) about traditional old beekeeping.
    Jump to minute 2:30.
    Watch - those are real storage chests (from abandoned houses) re purposed into hives.
    The keeper says he has about 20 of those.
    Reuse/reduce/recycle:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGRkmd0fx3M
    Former "smoker boy". Classic, square 12 frame Dadants >> Long hive/Short frame/chemical-free experimentations.

  12. #51
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    Mar 2017
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    dallas, tx, usa
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    Default Re: Horizontal deep hives

    I have a couple of of questions about using med or deeps in a 90 deg position put together:

    1. How do you extract the honey. The angle of the drawn comb will also be shifted 90 deg and when put in an extractor will it still come out wothout damaging the comb?
    2. When the 2 frames are put together is the original top of the frame now in the center of the new frame or along the edges? Also, does this leave enough space between "frame sets" for the bees to move easily or do they need to go around the frames?

    Thank you,

    Anthony

  13. #52
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    Default Re: Horizontal deep hives

    Quote Originally Posted by aiannar974 View Post
    I have a couple of of questions about using med or deeps in a 90 deg position put together:

    1. How do you extract the honey. The angle of the drawn comb will also be shifted 90 deg and when put in an extractor will it still come out wothout damaging the comb?
    2. When the 2 frames are put together is the original top of the frame now in the center of the new frame or along the edges? Also, does this leave enough space between "frame sets" for the bees to move easily or do they need to go around the frames?

    Thank you,

    Anthony
    I totally missed these questions for more than a year. Sorry!

    1. For conventional extraction I use standard supers with Lang frames in them - a single super fits under my long hive roof.
    I also now have several 14-frame long hives which take standard Lang 10-frame supers above - my hybrid hives (a different subject) - typical honey super management.
    Also, you can dis-assemble a tied-pair easily and extract normally.
    The comb shifts are a non-issue. Does not matter.
    Also, anymore I just insert un-altered Lang medium frames and have them standing (NOT hanging) - the bees don't require the frames to be standing, never did.
    It works just the same.
    Put them in - bees work them - pull them out.
    Like so:
    20190817_163756.jpg

    2. The original top of the frame becomes now the edge (after I tried it both ways).
    The thicker wood is best on the edge - so not to create a massive comb separator right in the nest center.
    Since I am foundation-less, the bees are free to perforate/create passages as they wish.
    They do.
    They are not forced to go around the wooden/plastic edges - a non-sense, really.
    I really like this pictured example - how they patched back a comb after I got some honey out of it for C&S - shows well how going around the frame edges is a non-existent issue.
    20190629_144209.jpg
    Last edited by GregV; 10-04-2019 at 12:12 PM.
    Former "smoker boy". Classic, square 12 frame Dadants >> Long hive/Short frame/chemical-free experimentations.

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