Band heater vaporizer.
Page 1 of 11 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 944

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Lottsburg, Virginia USA
    Posts
    1,740

    Default Band heater vaporizer.

    I have been working on a 120 volt band heater vaporizer that can vaporize a hive through a 3/8" clearance hole at the back of the hive that has the hole plugged with a piece of 7/16" dowel until you need to vaporize. The first unit I made was temperature controlled with a mypin TA4-RNR and a type K thermocouple. The band heater was from Amazon, a110v-300w, 25mminternal diameter for about $8. Total cost about $50. I found pre heating for 5 minutes then inserting into the hive turning upside down putting on the cap with the 2 gram charge of OA then turning the unit the right side up vaporizing would take place in less than 1 minute. At this time a second cap could be loaded with OA to go again when the unit is moved to a new hive. So in theory after heating the device for 5 minutes a hive could be completed almost every minute thereafter. However I have found that when working in a yard with a cold breeze blowing this seems to rob some of the heat from the device and slow things down a little. I have also made a second vaporizer without the temp controller at a cost of little more than $10 and as I now know where the temp goes to I find the controller not necessary. I have used this in the yards from a battery and a $40 inverter and it works fine.PIC_1690.jpgPIC_1694.jpg More info to follow as I progress with this project.
    Johno

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Lottsburg, Virginia USA
    Posts
    1,740

    Default Re: Band heater vaporizer.

    To try to reduce heat loss to the device I have insulated the hot area with glass wool covered with woven glass tape and will try this out on a few hives later on this week. The vaporizer gets up to about 470F in 4 minutes when it normally took about 5 minutes, so it appears the insulation has increased the efficiency some.IMG_1031.jpg
    This high temperature does not seem to break down the OA as the particles can clearly be seen during test vaporizing also the temperature drops rapidly to around the 340F area while sublimation is taking place.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Houston, TX, USA
    Posts
    646

    Default Re: Band heater vaporizer.

    Thanks for the update. I've been working on a similar device, but went with the 35mm size. The local big box stores don't stock 1.25 copper parts, so had to order them. We'll see how it does on temp when I get it together. Did you try heating the actual cap instead of the tube?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Lottsburg, Virginia USA
    Posts
    1,740

    Default Re: Band heater vaporizer.

    My starting point was the 25mm band heater so I had to go with 1" copper pipe which is about 1 3/16" or about 30mm which allowed me to open the band heater a little to allow for the 3/8"piece of pipe to protrude from the front. The band heater would probably be better closer to the bottom but then to find the right size band heater would be next. I could use the end cap plus a coupling to make up the chamber and still have the 1"pipe inside holding it all together, as the top caps I made from some 1" OD aluminum tube and they fit neatly into the 1" pipe and this helps seal the top. Also this was large enough to hold 2 to 3 grams of OA and the purpose was to do 1 hive at a time.
    Johno

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Santa barbara, CA
    Posts
    779

    Default Re: Band heater vaporizer.

    johno-
    I've been following your progress on the forums. I purchased some Tempco band heaters (NHL00158) that are 1-1/4" and 250 watts (120v AC). They fit over the 1" copper pipe caps perfectly although the price is ~$25 each http://www.tempco.com/Catalog/Sectio...ica%20Band.pdf
    I'm going to try and use some silicon rubber corks on mine and see if they can withstand the heat. I've got some PID temperature contollers and thermocouples I'm playing around with also. I'm powering mine with a 750 watt inverter and a 22ah battery. I guess we'll see if the temperature contollers are necessary...
    If you only have a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.
    Abraham Maslow

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Algoma District Northern Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    4,804

    Default Re: Band heater vaporizer.

    Having the heat up the sides a bit may prevent the crusting over and hanging up on the sides on some evaporators. Should help keep some heat on the exit pipe to prevent redepositing there too.

    I like it!
    Frank

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Lottsburg, Virginia USA
    Posts
    1,740

    Default Re: Band heater vaporizer.

    Hi Dynemd,
    I hope the silicon corks work for you, will you be able to hollow them out so that you may be able to load the OA into them? This I think is the big advantage of the system, loading the OA into the hot container without any vapor escaping. Let us know how you progress.
    Johno

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    dallas, tx, usa
    Posts
    154

    Default Re: Band heater vaporizer.

    I think the 900 dog is max operating temp. Theses heaters are restistant heaters with either mica or ceramic electrical insulation . As they heat the resistance goes up. The ultimate temperature is a function of that input vs the losses which would be to the oa vaporization and the atmosphere and if the thing burns up. Watt-hours is a measure of heat. This is not the same as temperature. Heat in a small tip like a soldering iron is a real high temperature but the same heat in a room does not move the temperature much. This means the watt-hours vs the size of the unit and losses will give temperature.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Algoma District Northern Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    4,804

    Default Re: Band heater vaporizer.

    I did 8 hives yesterday and experimented a bit with throttling back the upper heater. With both bands on full heat my time at recharging and moving to the next hive seemed to result in things getting just a bit hotter than necessary. Not very scientific! With a helper I think there would be no waiting time or overheating with both bands on full.

    Certainly having auto temperature control would be nice and a must on any units produced for the general public.
    Frank

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Lottsburg, Virginia USA
    Posts
    1,740

    Default Re: Band heater vaporizer.

    Frank I think all I need is to have the device hot and ready when I am ready to treat the next hive, I doubt that one person can move from hive to hive close off the entrance and treat in under 30 seconds it would probably take a little longer. The other advantage of a temp controller is that you will use less power so a lower draw from your battery if you are using an inverter. So all in all I am quite happy with the results of the latest say mark 3 vaporizer.
    Johno

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Springfield, OH
    Posts
    86

    Default Re: Band heater vaporizer.

    I'm planning on building one of these soon as I can get my band heaters. Already got them ordered just waiting on the delivery. I've got the aluminum and I can get the 1" pipe and end cap at the box store, also have the acetylene torch for the welding. My questions are 1.Is the 3/16" pipe the soft copper tubing for refrigerant lines? Smallest I can find listed at the box stores is 1/4" but I haven't checked with any of the local HVAC/plumbing places. 2.Is the end cap welded to the 1" pipe?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    killeen Tx
    Posts
    60

    Default Re: Band heater vaporizer.

    I got my 3/16 hard line off ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-16-1875-Ro...5tZZ9d5TfYxR5Q

    the end cap is welded on the pipe.

    Joe

  13. #13

    Default

    Great build! Instead of trying to make the charging caps sealable, what if you put a butterfly or ball valve on top of the chamber? Load the OA, actuate the valve back and forth, and (hopefully) you now have dumped the OA and sealed the top of the chamber. Would crystalization on the valve prevent this from being feasible? Not sure if that would gum things up or just get scraped clean every time it was used.

    Edit: If crystals didn't prove to be a mechanical issue, not sure if the valve would handle the heat well? The chamber could be made taller to allow some of the heat to dissipate, but this may be detrimental to getting to/staying at temp, which would defeat the purpose. Just some thoughts.
    Last edited by MidMichBees; 10-08-2017 at 08:54 AM.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Lottsburg, Virginia USA
    Posts
    1,740

    Default Re: Band heater vaporizer.

    MidMichBees, I have been trying to perfect this mousetrap for some time and have pondered methods of loading the charge by mechanical means such as a ball valve. The first problem is that the ball needs to be blocked at one end otherwise the OA falls straight through, second most of the valves have a nylon seal which would not stand the heat and third it would increase the mass required to be heated making the device inefficient. Continue to think of methods to improve the device as the more folks thinking about something are more likely to come up with a better solution.
    Johno

  15. #15

    Default

    Maybe misunderstanding what you're saying, but regarding the OA falling through, if you started with the valve closed, loaded the OA, then opened and shut the valve, wouldn't that serve to drop the OA then seal the top?

    Regarding the valve not withstanding the heat and decreasing the efficiency of the heating: yeah, that would be my fear.

    I've been lurking and following this project for a while, so I agree, the more brains the better! Awesome work so far.

    Side note/question, would you think a 12 volt motorcycle battery with an inverter would power this sufficiently for a handful of treatments?

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Lottsburg, Virginia USA
    Posts
    1,740

    Default Re: Band heater vaporizer.

    MidMichBees, If you can manage a handful hives with a wand and a motorcycle battery then a single band heater vaporizer will handle them as it draws less power than a wand. The whole story depends on the capacity of the battery so for 5 hives you could be drawing 10 amps for a little less than 10 minutes, lawn mower batteries seem to do the trick so at all depends on the size of the motorcycle battery. At my home I use a light 100Ft extension cord that I originally got for an electric lawn trimmer and use the inverter clipped onto my truck battery with a shorter cord in my out yards. With the valve story, when you open the valve to let the OA in as soon as some of the OA hits the bottom the rapid expansion of the gasses produced will probably blow the remainder of the OA out the top before you can close the valve, that is why I mentioned another configuration that is not available.
    Johno

  17. #17

    Default

    Ah, didn't realize it would start to vaporize that quickly. Good point. Thanks for the advice on the battery.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Lottsburg, Virginia USA
    Posts
    1,740

    Default Re: Band heater vaporizer.

    This is the Mark 1000? The final version of Johno"s Cheapo Vap, not to be confused with the basic Cheapest Vap. Guaranteed 30 second hive treatment time for 2 to 3 grams of Oxalic acid.IMG_1270.jpg
    Johno

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Douglassville Pa
    Posts
    175

    Default Re: Band heater vaporizer.

    Johno is that an 1 1/2 tube ?

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Lottsburg, Virginia USA
    Posts
    1,740

    Default Re: Band heater vaporizer.

    Cjj it is made from a 11/4" coupling as my local Ace does not have 11/2" copper pipe, the OD ends up at 1.475" and the band heater fits perfectly and takes just over 2 minutes to reach set temperature. I created a little flare on the opening by beating it against the smallest ball of a tow hitch. The Mopar plugs measuring around 1.3" at the narrow end fir perfectly and will take at least 4 grams of OA without any mods. The bottom was made from a piece of 1" copper pipe cut down the side then heated and straightened which was welded onto the bottom of the coupling by putting the flat bottom onto a brick then the coupling on top heating the area from the outside then running the copper weld from the inside, trimmed the outside with metal shears and smoothed the bottom edge on a disc sander and the rest is history.
    Johno

Page 1 of 11 123 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •