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Instrumental Insemination Equipment

174K views 595 replies 35 participants last post by  teplov 
#1 ·
I'm attempting to fabricate an instrumental insemination device, can anyone give me the ideal inside diameter for the tube that holds the queen?

-Jay
 
#108 ·
Now I have endeavoured to pull 4.00mm tube, your advice rings true about smaller tube dia, but I had to have a go to see if the larger size could be done, it can but at much greater time and cost and difficulty, a seasoned glass blower might say it's easy and knock one out in a minute, but I need things to be quick and efficient under my scope of things and repeatable.

I think I may have come up with a home made version of the narrow dia syringe made using a heavy walled glass tube, about .25 and four inches long with an all in one mech for the plunger using a tiny O ring seal which are all available as standard.
 
#106 ·
tracking this thread...

thank you JSL, Little Boy Blue, and the enthusiasm you show for this project's fabrication. The sourcing links may well not be current in a few years time...can that shortcoming be anticipated with a screen capture of these links?

I hope to be emulating Johno and getting an II kit set up that's based on the shared information here
 
#107 ·
Thank you for your kind words Knisely.

The avenues which empower the whole today via technology may, as you say, not be as they are today, in the future, but the mind has an ability of storing knowledge, beyond the computer and the book or the spoken word, it is how we got to where we are today.

My grandfather would say when the time was right, don't tell me, show me, this is how we as a personality move forward, beyond the patents office or the monopolist that many have become through the controlling of the knowledge.

But it's all good if we work together and listen to those who want to help those who want to help themselves, many minds a solution makes.
 
#109 ·
Knisely, you are welcome. I wish more people would have a go at making their own equipment. Instruments can be quite simple and still work just fine, but I think people shy away from simple these days...

Danny, no worries I completely understand! It is more fun to figure it out for yourself. Many do not realize just how small the tools and instruments have to be. I have modified equipment to inseminate fire ants. The first time, I sat down with the researcher to try the the equipment, I was amazed at how difficult it was to inseminate in miniature!
 
#111 · (Edited by Moderator)
I think this is first "flexible instrument" I made. The manipulator was taken from my childhood microscope.
That's lovely Joe, love the deep mahogany colour together with the brass, for those who never knew what it is, might say it's really old, of the days of discovery, if you know what I mean.

Now, if a good supply of the type of manipulator like the one from your early microscope shown here, making your own system could be so much easier, I have found the single axis blocks like the ones used on your system, but a cylindrical version would be nice too.

And that gives me another idea, off to the shop to have a rummage.
 
#114 · (Edited)
https://s19.postimg.org/osqranuqb/IMG_0173.jpg

The main body of the manipulator seen here is a section of 1/2" K & S precision brass tube, this is fitted inside a section of 1/2" tube A with a thicker wall thickness, the thicker wall is needed to take a decent thread for the adjustment screws in white/4.00mm threaded bar.

The white adjuster knobs came from an old fax machine I dismantled.

In this instance I adjusted a small scrap of brass tube I had to fit, these sizes Can be adjusted in size to accommodate ones needs.
The small post was silver soldered to the side of the thicker walled tube A, is 1/4" dia and fits the clamps from my surface gauge, these types of clamps are readily available with most magnetic base support arms in the engineering arena.

The main body of the manipulator consists of

1 x K & S tube 1/2" dia 2-1/4" long.

1 x K & S tube 17/32" dia 2-1/4" long.

1 x 1/2" ID tube by 1-1/4" long, the 1/2" tube can be press fit into the thicker walled tube in a vice, make sure you press it in from the correct end, and protect the fine ends with a shim of wood or similar because the K & S is only 1/64 wall thickness, now file out a groove with a 1/4" round file to take post.

1 x 1/4" post 1 -1/4" long, shape end to match curve of tube before silver soldering in place.

https://s19.postimg.org/vm0ayf0b7/IMG_0203.jpg


https://s19.postimg.org/n2cbmx2kz/IMG_0174.jpg


https://s19.postimg.org/ngdnmimoj/IMG_0175.jpg


https://s19.postimg.org/r19j5qr83/IMG_0176.jpg


https://s19.postimg.org/czxjk6no3/IMG_0180.jpg


https://s19.postimg.org/8a7lvkwnn/IMG_0177.jpg

In the picture above one will notice that the manipulator main post is itself inserted into another brass tube, this is to provide a really snug fit for the steel post and also give a bearing surface, instead of turning against the timber in the base, in this case its birch plywood.


https://s19.postimg.org/910c1cz0z/IMG_0178.jpg
 
#116 · (Edited)
Thanks Joe

I do like it but it needs a couple more tweaks to get it somewhere near for use, I have been practicing on a model basis and realised your correct in saying that the sting hook arm needs to be more in line with the sting itself, so I will reposition that next to the manipulator post, to almost where it was originally, hopefully with a new device for holding the sting.

With the ball end posts being so narrow I have found that you could have several of them next to each other and still be able to place the hands around the post comfortably, so that the index finger and thumb remain in their natural orientation whilst grasping with the finger tips, it's all down to biological ergonomics, if you know what I mean, if the device is going to look well made, it also has to work optimally and efficiently.

One slight change from yesterday is the latex rubber locators that support the inner tubes, I found in the farming cupboard these lambing castration rubbers, this is rather ironic, here we are trying to improve the breeding of bees, and such items as these prevent the opposite in the weather to be.

The position of the orange rubber upon the brass tubes is the best place to position them, these rubbers have the exact amount of give for the task in hand and are easy to fit, you simply place them on the narrow tube and roll them into position down the wider tube by pushing on the narrow tube.

Make sure everything is plumb central before you slide everything together.

But make sure the lower ring does not obstruct the X-Y adjusters, the orange ring sits just above them for the best regulation of the tip of the needle or spindle/pipette.

These adjusters are capable of very fine tuning, half a turn moves the needle half a millimetre, as one release or unwinds the memory in the rubber ring brings things back to zero, I was quite pleased at the result.

For reference, the smaller dia tube at the very centre of the manipulator has an internal diameter of 4.80mm and-will accommodate a 4.50mm glass tube nicely.

The central glass tube can be held firmly in place by two rubber o-rings.


https://s19.postimg.org/6osc3rmfn/IMG_0181.jpg

https://s19.postimg.org/eisxp5u8j/IMG_0199.jpg

https://s19.postimg.org/527pw9zrn/IMG_0182.jpg

https://www.ted.com/talks/anand_varma_a_thrilling_look_at_the_first_21_days_of_a_bee_s_life

And a happy new year to come.
 
#118 · (Edited by Moderator)





After speaking to Pete about the Co2 setup, I founds this useful link for those wanting a viable setup.

http://www.instrumentalinsemination.com/ii-equipment1/co2-system

Also this site for a pro looking glass bubbler, these also do a full range of glass tube of all types, a very friendly person to person service.

http://www.scientificglass.co.uk/co...asks,_Erlenmeyer,_Borosilicate_Glass.html#p56

For the hooks and other tools I'm going for silver wire which is not that expensive, but it is easy to work with and drill, as a seasoned silversmith for ten years now I know how to work harden it by manipulation only, silver also has great anti bacterial properties too, here is my supplier, who will sell by the gram.

http://www.cooksongold.com/Wire/Sterling-Silver-Round-Wire-0.80mm-prcode-HSA-080

Here is what I will use as a steriliser as the old school did things, this is exactly what I had as a student in the military path labs eons ago, cheap and hot off the shelf.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KITCHEN-C...638906?hash=item2ef9b140fa:g:AHMAAOSwRQlXej2N

We called it the same in those days.

When I get sorted and all the help, advice and savings I will be able to afford a decent scope and a crash course or two, can anyone recommend anyone in the North of England, or elsewhere in the U.K.
 
#125 ·
Little boy blue, do you have any idea's on how to build the queen holder. Perhaps this is something that a 3D printer could do. what about terminology, what would you call the arms holding the sting hook and the one that has just a sort of hook on it.
Still waiting for stuff to arrive.
Johno
 
#128 · (Edited by Moderator)
The arms, let's call them manipulator arms, that use tube to slide inside tuse and held with the O rings as shown earlier, these work really well.

The 3D model looks really well designed can't wait to see her in situ.

The Queen holder tube would be good done on the 3D printer and you will be able to get the reduction at the tip correct, but in a few pictures I have seen what looks like they are using straight tube.

Here is a few things I have been doing over the holidays.

I have slightly altered the vertical positioning by adding anew additional micrometer thread to the manipulator, 33TPI, I did the same on my second unit too, with a new Base and more simple brass queen post.

Also this new syringe, made with heavy walled glass tube, 2.5 mm bore including a built in 33TPI thread or piston rod. The rod is drilled at the end to take a plain O ring and small screw.









If there is anyone interested in the Mark 2 version with the black hexagon base, I'm in the market for a good scope new or second hand.

Edit.

My new queen post mount consists of two sections, the main post itself is a round body with a 3/8" spigot that fits directly into the Base, the head is drilled horizontally to take the queen post itself which is held firm by the alan bolt, on the end of the cross tube is a ball to take the gas tube, this is drilled to take the Co2 across through to the queen post.



The second cheaper ball ends I just bought were not as firm as the first ones I received, however,

I have found a easy way to adjust the firmness of the rod ends, given to me buy an old boy, you simply tap them gently on the top section that retains the ball untitled the desired drag is acquired, works every time.

After a visit to a local glass blower artist he showed me how to get the one piece larger diameter pippets; after an hour or so I got the hang of it and can also do it free hand.

Total cost of materials for this project came to just below a hundred pounds and ten full days work in house.
 
#141 ·
Thanks Johno, I'm working on mark 3 at the moment, she will be a complete 3D print model for the main unit, slightly different to the conventional twin post setup and based around a central queen post that can be worked by either right or left handed people and from forward or behind the scope.

The thread is really bringing global minds together now, which is great to see, thanks.
 
#138 ·
Thank you. Old machine worked well, too. He was not handsome enough. I have them inseminated over 1,500 queens. Sorry for my English.
Teplov, very nice work with the instruments! 1500 queens is a lot of time on that machine.

Thanks to everyone that has shared instruments. It has been a joy to see all of the craftsmanship and ingenuity. Please keep them coming!
 
#140 ·
Hi all dears
I tried and worked to home design and making homemade and very cheep II system since last year to now and i reached to many aims. but i see and this hot post today and i'm very happy to this.

my system is not regular system as you seen that and some parts make different to regulars. but it acts which is other systems act.

my camera is far from me but when i may take photo from system upload to you. that is very cheep.

Thanks lot dears
 
#144 ·
I have been writing professionally in Solidworks 3D since 2001 but hovered around the 3D printing idea due to the lack of decent resolution until recently, which is now pretty good and getting better by the day.
If you do get a grip of your version of the drawing package I would definitely recommend one of theses units, I have two of the older models which are fine which can be picked up for as little as 40 bucks today.

https://www.amazon.com/3Dconnexion-SpacePilot-Pro-Mouse-3DX-700036/dp/B00283VWK4

These pilots really do save a lot of clicking and time and create a calmer thinking pattern whilst working.

But I also like to do things the old way in raw metals conjoined with technology.

I agree, the 3D paradigm is going to take over much of how we perceive making things and it is the way things are headed.
 
#149 ·
I understand completely! I think many people share the same perception that a more complex instrument will make it easier and faster. Some seem intimidated by my simple instrument, but after reading the work by Kuhnert and Laidlaw on the flexible technique, I was hooked on the idea. I learned on a traditional Machensen Instrument and later used a Schley, but once I started using simplified instruments there was no comparison. I have often thought of making a more traditional instrument for the market, but I wouldn't use it.:)
 
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