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Instrumental Insemination Equipment

174K views 595 replies 35 participants last post by  teplov 
#1 ·
I'm attempting to fabricate an instrumental insemination device, can anyone give me the ideal inside diameter for the tube that holds the queen?

-Jay
 
#65 ·
Hi JSL

Cool set up.

I Was thinking of something similar for the needle holder when I used Holly for the body, but by using brass tube to take the needle or as the glass boys tend to call a spindle, would you say with a steady hand that one could line things up without a micrometer setup?

Got you on the fluid hydraulic model, on one of the videos it shows someone pulling the semen with only a small amount of saline above the main body of semen, maybe this is where I got swayed off of course.

I have the nylon screws on the way and will fit them as part of the final prototype just in case I think.

I'm all questions at the moment.

Is it absolutely necessary to filter the saline through the 0.2 filter to sterilise it before drawing the samples.
 
#67 ·
Hi JSL


would you say with a steady hand that one could line things up without a micrometer setup?

Got you on the fluid hydraulic model, on one of the videos it shows someone pulling the semen with only a small amount of saline above the main body of semen, maybe this is where I got swayed off of course.


Is it absolutely necessary to filter the saline through the 0.2 filter to sterilise it before drawing the samples.
Yes, it is possible to even “free hand” inseminate. It takes a little more skill and a lot less coffee.:)

The wooden instrument I posted in similar to what you describe as the syringe is manually positioned. It just slides in the block.

You can heat sterilize the saline. Just start clean and keep it clean.
 
#68 · (Edited by Moderator)
Great idea of using a sewing needle for a drill, would save money buying the tiny ready made ones from the hobby shop.

I have looked through her indoors sewing box and the very finest needles are all half a millimetre, to recap, am I correct in saying that the hole is 20" thou or 0.50mm half a millimetre.

I must say this is a great place to join for information and the hospitality is very warm and welcoming indeed, thank so much thus far.
 
#69 ·
Just use the very tip of the sewing needle or sharpen one if it is a little too blunt. It takes a little practice, but you do not want to pass it through the hook, just the tip. I showed this to a friend of mine that was a a very skilled machinist and he just laughed and said I had way too much time on my hands.
 
#73 ·
Ahah, right got you.

This is going to leave a slightly tapered hole in the sting hook, that will match the taper of the sting itself, the more one pushes the needle inwards the larger the hole and taper will be.

I have some nice one millimetre nickel silver or Sterling silver that will make the hooks and will be easier to drill, I will give it a go tomorrow.

Cheers guys.
 
#80 ·
Check out some fine threaders for fishing. http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...3a5ba67d5ea035a5c7bff55ab93f31efo0&ajaxhist=0

They're pretty fine, they're made to pass through the eye of small hooks, then you pass the leader through and pull it through to thread the eye. I'm betting it could catch the sting though and maybe hold it in place with just tension or slip a very small O-ring on and slide it forward to secure but you'd have to be very careful.
 
#78 ·
This is a slow business, slowly have to get the goods together so I will have to refer to this thread as I progress 1 step at a time. Just keep the ideas coming, I will get up to my nearest Hobby Lobby and see if they have any brass tubing available O otherwise I will get some in from the site you recommended although they state 1/4" is out of stock, I also have a spare microscope slide adjuster I could try to use to lower the syringe.
Johno
 
#79 · (Edited by Moderator)
I gathered for about three weeks or so before making something, doodled in those weeks, but after joining the forum the blast of information from willing participants really got Casey Jones's engine No 1 rolling.

My grandfather was right all those years ago, his motto was, help those who want to help themselves, and if a few were struggling along, he would say, don't tell me, show me, and this is exactly what has happened here on Beesource.

I know after talking with Pete, this is no easy task, highly specialised and well worth the savings if one can bring the fruits to bare. Here we are on a very limited budget and have to watch every dime, so getting things working is a bonus for us here in the sticks, where postage can cost as much as some of the items.

What Beesource has in its data bank, is hand to eye coordination, experience, which are worth far more than money ever could be, the most valuable of all is our own labour, this is why governments think we owe them a living.
 
#82 ·
Now I'm wondering if some of my very small fly tying hooks could do the job with just the eye alone, there's also the C n F nail knot tool that might work as well by it self. Basically a fine needle with a hole in the tip to pull line through. How about a spring loaded sting hook with a counterweight to adjust the tension?? Actually with the spring, u don't even need a counterweight, just something to micro manipulate the stretch on the spring.
 
#85 ·
I think I will try using what they call in the modelling world as, plasticard, it comes in sheets of white PTFE based cards in varying thicknesses and can be cut using a scalpel, then you simply push a half millimetre sewing needle through/into it until you have the desired orifice, you could even heat the very tip of the needle and melt the hole, or use a bee sting itself maybe.

I have 1.00mm thick card here and will have a go after lunch.
 
#87 · (Edited)
Here is my latest idea, I took a section of 3/16" solid round brass rod, cut a slot in it at the end to take a slither of plasticard 25 thou thick and pinned it through using a 1.00 mm brass rod, the card worked out exact using a junior hacksaw and the plastic sits nice and snug in the slot, then I shaped the end of the rod to please the eye and glued it into the opposite end of one of the pin chuck arms.

https://s30.postimg.org/alejc8ny9/IMG_0110.jpg

https://s27.postimg.org/hq9e9w003/IMG_0111.jpg

The card is pretty stiff stuff and can be shaped due to it having no memory factor, so it will stay where you shape it and it cheap, the hole can be made easily and quickly with the point of a needle.

https://s29.postimg.org/r5vp043wn/IMG_0109.jpg

The ventral hook is made from a piece of silver rod which I ran one end through the jewellers mill to flatten it leaving the other end round to fit the pin chuck.

https://s24.postimg.org/7br953s05/IMG_0112.jpg

The card will flex slightly which might not be such a bad thing, as Sue in one of her video says novices like myself tend to push the sting downwards, but the plastic won't move that much due to its stiffness but will give a little.

https://s24.postimg.org/nqrozko51/IMG_0113.jpg

The card can be shaped and made to what ever size, length etc and shaped in seconds, it should work.
 
#89 · (Edited)
Whilst I was pondering as one does I remembered watching holes being made in metal sheet, what the old boys were doing, and this was in the day when I was very young and in town there were sparks coming from every other window in them days, people making things, lot of things all within walking distance.

However, what I thought I would try was to heat the 1.00 Sterling silver rod after rolling it in the mill to half a millimetre, then I secured it to my soldering plate,via a mini vice to steady it, the plate was made from fine refractory cement, and while glowing cherry red, I pierced it using a fine sewing needle secured in a small metal drill chuck.

Low and behold a fine hole was extant, it was a little small but on the next attempt a little bigger and useable.

These things are sent to try us, and sometimes the old ways are better and quicker, as Plato once said, nothing is new under the sun.
 
#90 · (Edited)
A busy day in the shop, made this simple heating coil pipettes drop stand.

Made from pieces of off cuts from another project, 18,00mm birch plywood, two 10.00mm silver steel bars I had spare and a small coil of Nichrome wire that I wrapped around an 8.00mm bolt, six turns, but might need to experiment a little to get the heat and timing right for each dia glass used, might have to make two coil mount boards and slide them on and off as needed.

The hole in the coil board is 40.00mm, this is to fill with investment or plaster of Paris or similar to act as a heat shield and insulator, fill this flush and hold in place by a rear disc or similar.

The weight is aluminium 50.00mm and 25.00mm diameter and has an 8.00mm hole drilled 3/4 of the way through then a 5.00 mm hole the rest of the way, this is guided by an 8.00mm post.

The wire I salvaged from some old unused electric heat elements, dia of wire 1.00mm.

The power supply can be either a battery charger or variac which I already have, but I have been told that a household light switch come reastat can be used and has variability.

She took two hours to make costing a tenner all in.

Thanks for looking.

https://s29.postimg.org/h39xjtfyv/IMG_0115.jpg

https://s28.postimg.org/npyc7eoz1/IMG_0114.jpg

https://s30.postimg.org/ogd0gjr41/IMG_0116.jpg
 
#95 · (Edited)
Thank you Stephenbird, it's always good to help those who want to help themselves, if more do this the better things could be. Today many are reluctant to share their knowledge and dint with others for reasons unknown, but the venerable Pike once said that, all virtue is a struggle, and how right he was.

For myself it's unlocking the mysteries and a vision of how things might be, our links with nature and the range of the human spirit, and how the parisimoniousness of nature gives up its secrets that interests me, especially bees in the wild, and those so conditioned and domesticated as Brother Adam saw things, so are we being conditioned by those with superior knowledge.

All of what I share here is for everyone to share, I hope we can iron out any problems together.
 
#93 ·
Blue, what size tubing are you going to use for the tips and how will you secure the tube at the top and at the weight when you heat up. I am also interested in the parts that will secure the queen for insemination, I know the carbon dioxide comes in at the bottom so I think there are 3 parts to that system. Do you hope to have your rig going by spring when you will be able to rear queens and try it out.
Johno
 
#94 · (Edited)
For the top I will use a rubber o ring pushed over the glass tube above the top plate, for the weight which I have to drill and tap as yet, I will use a plastic thumb screw and a slither of shrink wrap over the end to stop crushing, you can use rubber or plastic like this guy, where I got the basic layout from. You can get a hundred of those plastic thumb screws for a few bucks online.
If you watch what he does, he slides the taper into his Verneer gauge until it stops then tilts it to break it off, Cushman says he inserts a gauge wire inside and where it stops he cuts it level with the end of the wire inserted from the wider end, but I'm sure there are lots of variants to getting the desired product.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0_ii8fS4Be0

For the tips I will go for the smaller 2.00mm glass tube as per Cushman's intro, but still try and get the 4.00 mm going as well for my original idea.

http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/makingtips.html

For the Co2 I'm going buy Pete's recommendation, mini mig welding bottle and brass tap, no flow gauge and a glass flask from the scientific glass company for a quid with cork bung and two 4.00mm glass tubes, one below water level and one above for the outlet, Pete says, one bubble per second is sufficient to narcotise the queen whilst she is in the queen post.

https://s24.postimg.org/w0ihpn0v9/IMG_0094.jpg

https://s29.postimg.org/6ssjfassn/IMG_0091.jpg

The queen post tube is part of a surface gauge clamp, they are fitted to the magnetic base versions as well. I will use a plastic tube to fit over the brass 1/4 tube and try that, and hold her in with my finger until she dozes off, if that doesn't work I will try heat forming the tube so it has a slightly smaller opening size.

I hope to have most tools done before the end of January if possible.

For the Harbo set up I'm going to do this one, or very similar using ply for the frame, using an old micrometer dial body.
The micrometer dial will want to turn so you have to use the coupling that the handle of the plunger fits inside, you don't really want the plunger to turn inside the rubber seal but be stationary, this little coupling enables this, and let the micrometer turn instead of the plunger.

https://s30.postimg.org/lrsn5rlip/IMG_0121.jpg

I'm going to swap the standard plastic plunger for a brass one due to its turnability in the wood lathe it's really simple to do and cheap.

One item I have yet to secure is the micro bore extension from the syringe to the insemination post, I know you can get these ready made but I don't know the name of them?
 
#96 ·
Danny, all is coming along nicely! I think you will still need to downsize your tools. If you have a dead queen in the freezer or something, put her in your instrument to try. Space is very limited and you may have difficulty getting the hooks and tip in there.

As for your syringe, you are on the right track. The Gilmont Syringe is the driver for the Harbo. The Gilmont's used to be made of machined pieces, but to save costs, they are now all molded pieces and not the same quality of movements in my opinion. The Hamilton you showed should be a very smooth option, although I have not tried it.

Keep up the good work!
 
#97 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thanks JSL

I had thought about the working sizes as in, the working distance below the scope and hot spot with her in situ etc, and will hang fire with any final adjustments to the rest of the setup, these things can be done when I fully realise the whole set up in situ and then work from there, but keep me on track, much is appreciated for sure.

I am quietly confident about the syringe layout as I have used similar in the lab, but they were motorised and well beyond my wallet. The part to get right is the delay situation between forward and reverse as is often needed to get the semen to travel smoothly, this is seen in the many videos available.

Do you have a good supply of the ready made tubes with the standard syringe connections or their listing name. I could make up these using micro bore and silicone bungs, but the ready made is so much easier and looks better.
 
#99 ·
Do you have a good supply of the ready made tubes with the standard syringe connections or their listing name. I could make up these using micro bore and silicone bungs, but the ready made is so much easier and looks better.
I have the pieces made for the syringe used with my instrument, but you can fashion something similar out of a 0.25cc or a 0.50cc insulin syringe which are pretty common. A 1cc will work too, but it is a bit large to get very good control. If you have a mircometer to use, an all glass syringe and glass plunger would work pretty slick and be very accurate for you. I prefer to make the plungers using a threaded rod and an o-ring for better accuracy. Even the little bit of lay in the rubber and plastic on a standard disposable syringe has a good bit of play in it. It can work, but to me the lag in response is frustrating.
 
#101 ·
How about the larger micrometers as Pete suggested to me, the syringe could be made to fit in the tail end side and then mount the whole unit into a block.
Yep, I call them old fashioned, but I suppose they are not... I have one around here somewhere, but you can buy the metal micormeters. They give you a very smooth thread and movement. Or, just find a nice piece of fine threaded rod that will fit in your syringe. It does not have to be fancy. SS is great, but brass or nylon works too, especially the nylon for a smooth movement. There are lots of ways to go about it, just depends on what materials you have handy.
 
#103 · (Edited)
First hot pass for the spindle drop gauge.

As one can see I have fitted two substantial live posts to take the heat from the load, these are 10.00mm dia silver steel and have a 1.2mm hole drilled into the coil end to a depth of 3/4". This way you can do fast coil changes if needed, when you insert the tails of the coils bend them slightly so that they are a tight fit and will contact properly.

The coil wire is 1.00mm dia.

I have yet to fill the void with fire cement around the electric posts, just had to try her out first.

https://s19.postimg.org/yh47dspjn/IMG_0127.jpg

Here is the first tip from the 4.00mm tube, which measures .80mm but it dropped it and broke an inch or so off of the end which originally measured .30mm or less but I could not find all the bits.

https://s19.postimg.org/x76dyqvrn/IMG_0133.jpg

To hold the tube up I found this old Victorian Bulldog clip which works nicely.

https://s19.postimg.org/rka119t8z/IMG_0134.jpg

https://s19.postimg.org/u99f51o43/IMG_0128.jpg

The rear end has a screw down set up for the mains wires as shown.

https://s19.postimg.org/dmruvyv6b/IMG_0130.jpg

The variac was pushing 12 volts here, so a heavy duty battery charger like the video earlier should suffice.

https://s19.postimg.org/pd5sdcnyr/IMG_0132.jpg

The inner distance between the coil and glass tube on this first run was a little to large, the optimum gap should be only a couple of millimetres max or less, here I had four millimetres and it took a while before the weight dropped down. This was a four millimetre dia tube, 2.00mm should take only a few seconds.

A little bit more practice and coil winds and it will work a treat.

More in the new year, happy festivities to all and may your god or gods be with you.

Johno

Check this place out State Side

http://www.produstrial.com/Glass-s/32782.htm
 
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