If you have a Top Bar Hive that is somewhat unique and not like any of the hives listed here (https://www.beesource.com/resources/e...-hive-designs/) and would like to have it included on this page, please contact me so I can give you the details of what I'd need from you.
I used the plans in the August 2010 issue of Bee Culture Magazine then added a couple of small details after watching some videos on youtube. It turned out perfect as far as design. I just hope the Bees think so. I had some old cypress fence planks I used for the long sides.http://www2.netdoor.com/~jwh/tbh.JPG
Last edited by Wits End; 08-24-2010 at 11:46 AM.
Reason: add link
Ive built that design and im leary of ever putting another TBH on legs as ive had one sink into the mud and mess up my hive with a bunch of fallen comb
I use legs on most of mine. I use my scrap lumber under the legs when leveling the hive. It won't sink then. Frost heaves may move them a little but they won't sink and they are much more enjoyable to work.
I'm a civil engineer, so I am constantly tinkering, so I have several TBH design plans, but .... I've only been beekeeping for several years and I don't know if the designs will make the bees happy, but ... I'd be happy to share and even happier to have a knowledgeable person correct. My email is [email protected].
I hope to have it built early this Spring. I designed a type of top bar "open frame" to help support the combs and hopefully help the bees keep them straight and aligned. I will let you know if it works.
hey WildB. I love the design. The frames are a great idea. I keep asking people to make suggestions about my designs but no one ever does, but I have some suggestions for yours (if it won't piss you off). (really don't want to cause offense)
1. It seems tall. Might be easier to lift lid and frames if they are a hip level
2. if you made the landing board flat you could use a boardman feeder
3. deeper frames would mean having mess with the bees less often
4. the gable vents would work better if there were corresponding soffit vents. (I'm in a hot climate to venting the attic is critical)
5. I'd use some sort of plastic for the bottom board (maybe Plexiglas) so that it doesn't warp and get stuck (yes that's a personal experience)
Anyway thanks for sharing
Hey Zonker, where can I look at your designs? I like seeing other people's ideas and concepts.
Thanks for the comments. The stand can be made to any height to suite the user. There are soffit openings for venting. I didn't mention them, but if you angle down or zoom into the roof you will see there is a continuous slot opening under the soffit. The plexiglass tray does sound like a good idea, it would stand up to moisture better too. If it was clear you could even look through it to check out the hive without opening and creating a draft.
Of course you can see my designs! I've been trying to get someone knowledgeable to review them for a couple of years. I have two designs. A traditional Kenyan TBH which is sort of tricky to build if your not a woodworker and Tanzanian Hive which you can slap together in a hour in an emergency.
I am a true novice and will defer to your expertise in the matter of the "top bar" definition. The side dowels and bottom bar that make up my "open frames" are completely optional and only to help support the comb structures to minimize comb failures. There is no foundation, so the combs within the frames would be completely bee made. I have just read a lot of people having comb failures with traditional top bar designs and thought a support structure attached to the top bar might help.