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Picture in your mind the world
as a basic map of honeybee thermal/cell size zones based on composites
of hot and cold land area masses. Now picture this as lateral
belts going around the world with the hotest zones and smallest
sizes near the Equator and volcanic hot thermal zones, and the
largest sizes near 60, latitude in belts going around the world
and the tops of colder mountain ranges. Now picture in your mind
the world surrounded in layers with the smallest sizes being
on the bottom where compression is greatest, and the largest
sizes being on top where compression is least. Now picture in
your mind that every honeybee thermal/cell size zone has a natural
range of small, medium, and large cell sizes to allow for bees
to transition into and out of habitat areas as vegetation and
rain occur throughout a yearly cycle. With smaller cell sizes
a beekeeper would gain variability and with larger cell sizes
a beekeeper would gain less. As you go from the Equator, both
North and South, picture smaller yellow hot-weather bees getting
bigger to about the 30 latitude belts around the world.
Picture a transition zone here, where yellow hot-weather honeybees
and dark (black or brown) cold-weather honeybees come together
and overlap co-mingling. Yellow hot-weather honeybees will naturally
be at their largest sizing and dark cold-weather honeybees will
naturally be at their smallest. As you go from the 30 latitudes
towards the poles, picture the dark cold-weather honeybees getting
larger to about the 60 latitude belts, where their natural migration
north transitions to an end. Now picture in your mind, in the
tropics, only yellow hot-weather honeybees at sea-level and when
you reach about 3500 - 4000 elevation, a transition to dark cold-weather
honeybees again. Now picture in your mind, in the temperate zones,
only dark cold-weather honeybees at sea-level, except where volcanic
areas create hot thermal-zones allowing for yellow hot-weather
bees to survive naturally. Again within these limited yellow
bee zones, transition would occur towards dark honeybees, as
elevation is increased.
Now picture in your mind this only occurring with pure strains/races
of honeybees, except in transition zones where hybridization
would occur. Now picture in your mind hybrid mixes of different
honeybees as always being bigger in size than the pure strains/races
they originate from. Now picture in your mind simple hybrids
being naturally occurring in Nature and complex hybrids only
occurring in an artificial environment.
NOW, LET'S ASK SOME QUESTIONS. (We will re-state the above prior
to discussing bee breeding, applicable to field mechanics/management
only). Question: If honeybees, when they swarm out of oversized
domesticated hives, retrogress downward in size, then how stable
is a hybridized mixture in this scenario, especially if bigger
flys slower? Same scenario relative to Africanization? If honeybees
for evolution security, acclimatize to natural sizing, then should
not we as an industry be following them to solve our problems
of diseases and parasitic mites? If domesticated honeybees in
a given area swarm and retrogress downward, should not this be
a sign that the artificial comb size in use is wrong for that
particular area? If retrogression back to natural sizing, in
any given area/region cannot be accomplished in one retrogression-step
smaller, due to the extent that we as an industry went bigger
artificially, then what is the fastest way back to natural biological
beekeeping without the use of chemicals, antibotics, and essential
oils; and it taking a large amount of time, which we seem to
be running out of?
RETROGRESSION: The first step in retrogression is to survey colonies
in each area/region that are both domestic and feral (Note -
Colonies on oversized artificial brood foundations do not fully
correlate with naturally occurring breeding cycles, necessitating
that differences be taken into account or excluded from survey.
Further, colonies in the feral, whether established or un-established,
need to be separated visually by subcaste matings, to establish
their true degree of being natural, feral, i.e. all small subcastes,
all large subcastes, or mixed-size subcastes noting the degree.)
While this is taking place, a historical survey needs to be accomplished
to ascertain what traditional comb cell sizes where, prior to
use of artficially enlarged foundation, by each area/region.
Comb cell sizing here needs to be split into two categories:
1) That what was, prior to importation and subsequent hybridization;
2) That what was, after importation and hybridization; but before
the use of artficially enlarged foundation.
Where historical data is insufficient for verification of traditional
sizings, physical observation of retrogression by physically
removing domesticated honeybees from artificially enlarged brood
combs will be required. Note: This may require several steps,
to finally arrive at a standard range of smaller sizing by use
of "V-cut " top bars. Beekeepers can gauge very quickly
what size brood foundation their local honeybees prefer. All
they need is to makeup a few brood supers with top bars in them
only, with 5 degree angle cuts for feral swarms to build comb
upon, precoated with beeswax to facilitate comb building during
the swarming season. Then all that has to be done, is measure
the inside diameter of the cell wall to ascertain the common
worker cell size for the geographic area. Beekeepers doing this
should find that their feral bees (large caste/mixed-size castes)
and even their own domesticated bees will prefer a smaller size
brood comb than what they are probably now using. Here, first
rule-of-thumb to clear up parasitic mite problems should be...do
what the bees prefer!
Keep in mind, the idea is to figure out how many retrogressions
it will take to bring the honeybees in a given area back to traditional
natural sizing. Repeat the above mentioned process, with V-cut
top bars on several domesticated hives and several well established
feral colonies (not less than 10 each). We found the average
here in Southern Arizona to be about 4 for our domesticated hives
and 2 for established feral colonies. We found it impossible
to make the retrogression back to natural sizing in one jump
(This was our retrogression attempt to 5.0mm sizing). Two retrogression
would be required, but it became apparent that the time-frame
would be a limiting factor, because we didn't have the time to
retrogress our whole beekeeping outfit for each retrogression
required (figured 10 years for each retrogression for changing
1,000 hives with foundation) for our domestic hives. We decided
to see if we could speed the process up to match what we observed
on the feral side. Consequently, we decided beekeepers cannot
do an old-fashioned comb shake-down, from today's domesticated
hives and restart on new undrawn 4.9mm foundation, to match the
top-of-the-sizing-spectrum for traditional sizing before artficial
hybridization by man, without modifying the technique to fit
today's needs relative to stress by parasitic mites/secondary
diseases, limited time-frame within which to work, and the different
requirements for field management, between domestic and feral.
PROCESS FOR SPEEDING-UP RETROGRESSION: This is a definite multi-year
application to accomplish. Depending upon the size of the beekeeping
operation, it can take anywhere from 3 to 15 years average to
accomplish. The first year is a preparation year for creating
"seed-frames" for what will be pot-progressive work,
the years following. Work is begun by the preparation of "removeable swarm-catching frames"
to act as stimuli for producing seed-frames of drawn-out 4.9mm
brood-comb foundation. It also fills a two-fold purpose of speeding-up
retrogression, while supplying a renewable source of clean uncontaminated
beeswax for foundation making (We will be going over making foundation
by hand later). Depending upon the size of the operation to be
converted back to natural comb sizing, figure making about 50
supers of swarm-catching frames for every 1000 hives, or 5 supers
of swarm-catching frames per 100 average.
Begin by catching feral swarms.
When hiving unestablished swarms, separate by worker caste sizing,
keeping small-cast workerbee swarms for production of seed-frames,
by immediately placing upon 4.9mm foundation. Hive the swarm
into a super of undrawn foundation setting on a queen excluder,
which is setting upon a bottom board. Use a tight top cover to
close. Transport to desired location. DO NOT REMOVE QUEEN EXCLUDER
FROM BETWEEN BOTTOM BOARD AND SUPER UNTIL FOUNDATION IS DRAWN
AND QUEEN IS LAYING ON A MINIMUM OF 2-3 FRAMES.
When hiving an established
feral colony, cut out feral combs and mount into swarm-catching
frames. Take care to keep brood together, filling each frame
as much as possible. When hiving during a good nectar flow, discard
pollen and honey stores (bring an empty bucket to put in to take
home). Most established swarms cut-out, will fill 2-5 frames
with mounted brood when transferred into swarm-catching frames.
NOTE: If 3 mounted brood frames or less, place in super on top
of queen excluder, on top of bottom board, and complete filling
the super with frames of undrawn 4.9mm foundation. If 4 to 5
frames of mounted brood when transferred into swarm-catching
frames, place 1 (NO MORE) frame of undrawn 4.9mm foundation in
the center of the cut feral comb mounted into swarm-catching
frames. Then fill out the rest of the super with frames on undrawn
4.9mm foundation. Make sure super again is setting upon a queen
excluder, setting upon a bottom board. Use a tight top cover
to close. Transport to desired location.
DO NOT REMOVE QUEEN EXCLUDER FROM BETWEEN BOTTOM BOARD AND SUPER
UNTIL FOUNDATION, ON FRAMES IN CENTER OF SWARM-CATCHING FRAMES
AND AT SIDES OF SWARM-CATCHING FRAMES, ARE DRAWN AND YOU HAVE
HAD A CHANCE TO REPOSITION THEM TOGETHER IN THE CENTER OF THE
SWARM-CATCHING FRAMES, FOR THE QUEEN TO LAY IN AS A CONSOLIDATED
WORKING UNIT.
Note: By removing pollen and honey while hiving the bees, you
speed up comb drawing, because by creating no place for the bees
to put stores, you trigger wax production in honeybees. Continue
cycling of drawn 4.9mm foundation from the sides of the swarm-catching
frames to the established consolidated working unit. When the
swarm-catching frames are adjacent to the sides of the super,
remove and replace with more 4.9mm foundation. Next melt-down
the feral comb and recycle wax into foundation as a clean renewable
resource. Clean and recycle swarm-catching frames with another
colony. Upon completion of first super with drawn-out foundation
and stores of brood, pollen, and honey, super a second box and
continue, repeating supering as desired.
Retrogressing domesticated
colonies, established on oversized foundation, requires a different
approach. First, beekeepers must separate the comb sizes within
their colonies to be retrogressed. This is best done going into
winter, leaving the broodnest to settle into the smallest drawn
comb available to overwinter upon. Then when the honeybees are
at their smallest body sizing going into Spring for the year,
just before brood-rearing begins, an old-fashioned hive shake-down
should be accomplished. This is done by physically shaking the
bees off of the combs and restarting like a shook-swarm, into
a super filled with new undrawn frames of 4.9mm foundation, sitting
upon a queen excluder, sitting upon a bottom board. Honey-syrup
and a pollen patty (made with honey and pollen only) may need
to be supplied to induce bees to draw wax foundation. Use a tight
top cover to close. DO NOT REMOVE QUEEN EXCLUDER FROM BETWEEN
BOTTOM BOARD AND SUPER UNTIL FOUNDATION IS DRAWN AND QUEEN IS
LAYING ON A MINIMUM OF 2-3 FRAMES.
Note: For those colonies that will not draw comb out properly,
stop, and remove all undrawn foundation. Continue drawing comb
with hives that will draw out 4.9mm foundation properly. When
excess drawn comb is available in hives that will draw out comb
properly (not necessarily filled with honey or pollen, just drawn
out enough to hold pattern (1/8" to 1/4"on cell walls),
remove and add to those colonies that will not draw comb properly.
Again shake down bees to restart queen laying on correct pattern.
Once queen is laying on correct pattern of 4.9mm comb foundation
and brood is sealed, again add frames of undrawn 4.9mm foundation
and finish filling out super. Beekeepers will find that once,
bees reluctant to draw comb are given properly drawn frames of
foundation from another colony, and go through a full brood-cycle
to size down newly emerging bees, the colony will straighten
out. Upon completion of first super with drawn-out foundation
and stores of brood, pollen, and honey, super a second box and
continue, repeating supering as desired.
This is the process to be followed
the first year for catching feral bees or retrogressing domesticated
colonies from oversized brood foundation. The objective is to
create as much correctly drawn-out 4.9mm comb foundation as possible,
to act as seed-frames for the second year's work, and to stabilize
as many colonies as possible with stores of pollen and honey.
Foundation not correctly drawn is to be culled and melted down,
cycling back into undrawn foundation for reuse.
Note: Only by careful culling of misdrawn comb foundation
will beekeepers bring parasitic mites and their accompanying
secondary diseases under control so no chemicals, essential oils,
and antibotics are necessary for field maintenance. REPEAT: THE
OBJECTIVE IS TO CREATE CORRECTLY DRAWN-OUT COMB TO ACT AS SEED-FRAMES
FOR THE SECOND YEAR'S WORK. NOTHING ELSE WILL WORK IN THE END.
BEES THAT WILL NOT CORRECTLY DRAW OUT FOUNDATION OVER THE COURSE
OF THE YEAR WILL SUCCUMB TO DISEASE, DIE AND/OR NOT OVERWINTER
PROPERLY. DO NOT TRY TO SAVE THEM OR YOU WILL PERPETUATE YOUR
MITE AND DISEASE PROBLEM. TREAT THIS AS SURVIVAL OF FITTEST ONLY,
AND EXTINCTION FOR THAT WHICH WILL NOT RETROGRESS TO SOLVE THE
PROBLEM BIOLOGICALLY BACK TO TRADITIONAL BEEKEEPING.
--
Signed: Dee A. Lusby, Tucson, Arizona, USA, 1-520-748-0542
Email Address: deelusbybeekeeper@mailexcel.com
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