One of my hives is showing signs of a worsening DWV problem. I first noticed it a couple months ago, at that time it was only seeing one or two effected bees per hour. Now I've seeing ten in about 30 minutes.
I want to stay treatment free. All my hives are natural cell foundationless. This hive is a little over one year old.
Question is, what, if anything should I do.
Order a new queen? Let it the hive die? Destroy the hive?
If I was just going to make up a plan on my own I think It would be to remove the old queen, Destroy any queen cells that are formed and then add two frames of eggs from my strongest hive, thus re-queening and providing a brood break to cut down the mite population. Is this a sound theory?
One problem is that I am leaving for Alaska in a week and won't be back until the first week of july. I have someone who could refill feeders while I am gone but that is about it. Can I afford to wait until then? Weather is as good as it ever gets and everything is in bloom. Hive still seems strong but is behind compared to my others.
I'm not sure what all your options are. One would be to create a break in the brood cycle. You could split the hive into nucs with each have a frame with eggs. You should have new queens just starting to lay when you return.
Or, you could remove the queen and let the hive raise a new queen.
I don't think just replacing the queen would be enough right now, assuming you have a hive mite load.
Brood break and let them raise a new queen. When you get back, you should have a mated queen in a week or so. If the new queen doesn't get mated, install a mated queen.
Interesting. Well, I don't have any nucs on hand and probably don't have time to make any before I have to leave, but I could do four walk away style splits pretty easily and since each split would have a full medium of resources and the main flow is still two months away any viable hives I got out of it would have a decent chance of overwintering.
There's also the attenuated mites/virus hypothesis.
It takes an average of 3 seasons to get attenuated mites/viruses (DWV).
So, if you can get them to their 3rd season, you have a shot.
First of all, there has been work that has shown the difference between the Korean and Japanese Varroa destructor haplotypes. The Japanese strain being less pathogenic:
So I think I've decided to split up the hive which is in four mediums right now into four hives that all have a miz of eggs, honey and brood and let them raise new queens and see what I get.
Just about every time I read you the last year you pet topic is the evils of treatment and how we should not be helping the weak or breeding from them.
I occasionally see a few DWV bees. DWV was around long before Varroa, Varroa just spread it faster. A few is not an issue. A lot might be, but what are you going to do anyway? If they survive you have stock that can survive it. If you don't, you removed them from your breeding program. My guess is, based on you needing 30 minutes to see 10 deformed winged bees, that they will survive.
Yes I can see that WLC and have been thinking about it for a while. Thing is, I now have one hive that was virtually wiped out by mites ie down to a fistful of bees and all brood dead, and then somehow threw them off and survived.
So my initial reaction when I checked next time and to my surprise found them alive, plus no sign of mites, was WOW! I should breed from them. But later I realised it could be better to breed from the neighboring hive, that didn't get mites in the first place.
My situation was different. Plenty of bees, and plenty of crawlers in front of the hive, many with deformed wings and other telltale signs. Couldn't find mites though.
So, I split before it was too late to do anything other than order new bees.
However, I ended up ordering new 'resistant' bees anyway.
Me and some guys were just talking about Clinton last night. A brilliant communicator, and some great achievements during his Presidency, no doubt he thought he would be remembered as one of the good Presidents.
Then, in a fleeting moment, too much blood (or something) to the head, screws up, and THAT phrase is how he is remembered.
Me and some guys were just talking about Clinton last night. A brilliant communicator, and some great achievements during his Presidency, no doubt he thought he would be remembered as one of the good Presidents.
Then, in a fleeting moment, too much blood (or something) to the head, screws up, and THAT phrase is how he is remembered.
Anyway...hmmm. Not sure what I should do, if anything. I want to make some splits anyway...The hive still has a lot of bees, less than my others but more than it went into the winter with.
Well, I have no idea how Clinton came into this thread so I assume this was a reply to some other thread that you accidentally posted here. I really don't care if you talk about Clinton, I just don't see the connection to anything that was said in this thread. Maybe it just went over my head?
WLC
Re: DWV.....need advice please.
Oldtimer:
If you were addressing me...
In my opinion, treatment free beekeepers need some kind of a litmus test.
I think that producing a split that survives a mite/DWV outbreak is classic resistance selection in the presence of a easily visible 'challenge'.
OK apologies Aerindel, the Clinton thing was a response to the cigar quote, I thought every American knew what that was about. If you didn't know that, would have seemed pretty strange, yes.
Google can fill it in for you, type in Clinton cigar.
And the question I asked was to you, as you were the one considering breeding from the weak hive, or at least the hive showing DWV. WLC came up with a good response, however I was interested in your own rationale, in view of your own philosophy and ideas expressed in your posts since you joined Beesource.
And the question I asked was to you, as you were the one considering breeding from the weak hive, or at least the hive showing DWV. WLC came up with a good response, however I was interested in your own rationale, in view of your own philosophy and ideas expressed in your posts since you joined Beesource.
My view on that would be fine, if they are requeened. But walkaway splits? Breeding from the weak would be a bad thing, wouldn't it?
Reading Aerindel, his main focus is don't treat, don't support the weak, don't breed from the weak. He believes treating makes weak bees.
But actually, treating does not make weak bees. Breeding from weak bees makes weak bees. Whether the choice of breeder colony has anything to do with treatment is a management decision.
No....I think it makes strong mites. There's a big difference. (Although it wouldn't surprise me if insecticides in the hive make those bees sick but that is totally different than genetic 'weakness'
Treating also lets weak bees survive and breed when they otherwise wouldn't but again, that is different than 'making' them weak.
This is all basic biology and shouldn't be in dispute. Its not specific to bees or insects, it applies to all life on earth and would be just as true if I was talking about rats and fleas or humans and bacteria.
My view on that would be fine, if they are requeened. But walkaway splits? Breeding from the weak would be a bad thing, wouldn't it?
I was actually wondering the same thing but you asked the question first and I thought the answer was a good one.
The reason I was considering it is that it was something I could actually hope to get done before I go away for three weeks.
As I said in my first post, I would rather requeen from my best hive but I don't have time to start that process until I get back in three weeks.
The other factor of course is that breeding from a weak hive is not guaranteed to make all weak queens (no more than breeding from a strong hive will make all strong ones) Since the new bees genetics will be a mix the old queen, the drones she mated with, and then the drones the new queen mates with there should be a range of genes to work with.
I like WLC's plan because it doesn't cost me anything. I split up a hive that is failing anyway and get to run a challenge test for resistance and I don't have to steal eggs from my best hives and slow them down. At worst I am right back where I started, at best I have some number of new stronger hives.
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