Results 1 to 14 of 14
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Daleville, AL
    Posts
    172

    Default box/finger joints

    For those who make their own boxes and use a box joint, what size fingers do you prefer? 3/4"? 1"?

    Trying to find out what makes the best top and bottom joints for supers and deeps. I have seen 1" used, but it seems that 3/4" "Gazinta" 9-5/8 and 6-5/8 better than 1" does.
    Three swarms, one queen added to brood from each of two purchased nucs (in deeps) for a total of 6 hives

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Livingston county,Michigan,USA
    Posts
    16

    Default Re: box/finger joints

    7/8" works best for me...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    North Okananagan BC Canada
    Posts
    83

    Default Re: box/finger joints

    I built all my boxes using a finger joint the same thickness as the wood, so in my case 3/4 it gave me more glue surface than the factory built ones I bought . That's what they taught me to do when I worked in a furniture shop. While its not fine furniture I like the idea of lots of surface area for glue.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Accomac, Virginia
    Posts
    191

    Default Re: box/finger joints

    3/4" for mine
    Ed

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Evansville, IN
    Posts
    2,572

    Default Re: box/finger joints

    I sort of split the difference and use my whole dado stack, probably 13/16" with the 0.010" spacer I add to the stack. If I can keep the jig from rotating in use, this gives me a very close fit and nice joints. Probably two more nails per corner than the factory ones.

    Any width between 3/4" and 1" will work just fine.

    Peter

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Ravensdale, Washington, USA
    Posts
    16

    Default Re: box/finger joints

    3/8th inch. Mostly because my arbor was not long enough. (no joking.... a short arbor is a serious problem)
    April 21, 2014 - 3 Hives - 2 packages and 1 swarm

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Union County, Ky, USA
    Posts
    215

    Default Re: box/finger joints

    I make mine the widest that my stacked dado will cut. I think it is close to 1" or so. I just put the whole stack on there and then built a box joint sled around it. The wider you cut them, the fewer you have to cut! The sled takes a little bit to build but will save you a lot of time cutting joints.

    Rob

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Alexandria, Virginia
    Posts
    110

    Default Re: box/finger joints

    YEAH, I AM GOING TO MODIFY my plate so I can use the full 7/8" dado cut and the IBOX...at least that's what I copied from brushyMtn 8-frame mediums.like he says the wider you cut the less you cut....
    Quote Originally Posted by Rob73 View Post
    I make mine the widest that my stacked dado will cut. I think it is close to 1" or so. I just put the whole stack on there and then built a box joint sled around it. The wider you cut them, the fewer you have to cut! The sled takes a little bit to build but will save you a lot of time cutting joints.

    Rob

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Clackamas Oregon
    Posts
    790

    Default Re: box/finger joints

    Quote Originally Posted by vdotmatrix View Post
    YEAH, I AM GOING TO MODIFY my plate so I can use the full 7/8" dado cut and the IBOX...at least that's what I copied from brushyMtn 8-frame mediums.like he says the wider you cut the less you cut....
    For using the dato blades do not modify the metal plate! You just make an insert out of plywood or the scrap material. Put the plate in and run the blades up through the material (put your rip fence over it so the blades will miss the fence do not use your hands). You can make it too thin and use screws to adjust the plate to the thickness of the table if you do not want to sand or have a planer to get it exact.
    “Why do we fall, sir? So that we might learn to pick ourselves up” Alfred Pennyworth Batman Begins (2005)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Greenfield, IN
    Posts
    140

    Default Re: box/finger joints

    Quote Originally Posted by vdotmatrix View Post
    YEAH, I AM GOING TO MODIFY my plate so I can use the full 7/8" dado cut and the IBOX...at least that's what I copied from brushyMtn 8-frame mediums.like he says the wider you cut the less you cut....
    Does the Ibox go that big? I just bought one and played with it a little.

    Greg

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Glen Arm,MD
    Posts
    192

    Default Re: box/finger joints

    I made my own jig to cut them with a 1/2 router with a 1/2 bearing on top.(pattern router bit) I made the jig so that the cuts are symmetric. 9 spaces .736. I cut 2 boards at a time. much faster

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Alexandria, Virginia
    Posts
    110

    Default Re: box/finger joints

    The IBOX will go 7/8" at least...I think...It really works nicely. what the video and make notes cuz ya have to follow the instructions precisely fpr it to work right...I can post my notes from the video...
    Quote Originally Posted by LanduytG View Post
    Does the Ibox go that big? I just bought one and played with it a little.

    Greg

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Alexandria, Virginia
    Posts
    110

    Default Re: box/finger joints

    Quote Originally Posted by minz View Post
    For using the dato blades do not modify the metal plate! You just make an insert out of plywood or the scrap material. Put the plate in and run the blades up through the material (put your rip fence over it so the blades will miss the fence do not use your hands). You can make it too thin and use screws to adjust the plate to the thickness of the table if you do not want to sand or have a planer to get it exact.
    My friend who is a professional carpenter/cabinet maker said the same thing about the plate...

    He said I should make a zero clearance plate out of some sort of plastic that they make cutting boards from.....

    All I wanted to do was just file the one side about 1/32' or perhaps a 1/16th" just for the added clearance to use the full 7/8" dado....but the instructions on the saw say not to? there are plenty of threads left on the arbor....

    Why?

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Clackamas Oregon
    Posts
    790

    Default Re: box/finger joints

    Here is a fancy way of making a zero clearance insert, there are a lot of ways of doing it and just about every saw manufacture will sell one to you that specifically fits your saw.
    http://www.woodsmithshop.com/downloa...anceinsert.pdf
    I looked up the Ibox. Man that is nice! There would not be any reason that I know of to not have a zero clearance face plate, keep it safe. That dato tears through you there will not be anything left to sow back on.
    BTW if you push the blade up through the zero clearance you will not have the tear out you would with a gap.
    “Why do we fall, sir? So that we might learn to pick ourselves up” Alfred Pennyworth Batman Begins (2005)

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Ads