It sounds as if finding it used would be the key to it being practical...
About 2 miles away, I see they have used plywood for sale. I'd be surprised if they have 1/2" thick though.
I have only seen it in 1/2". I think that's the standard.
"People will generally accept facts as truth only if the facts agree with what they already believe."- Andy Rooney
There was a thread years ago about a standard Western cover made 3/4" longer than usual. The under cleat was 1 1/2" wide on one end with a slot missing in the middle with normal 3/4" wide cleats on the other end and sides. If one let that 1 /2" cleat over hang, the entrance would be open. If one pushed the end with the 1 1/2" cleat against the box , the end cleat of the lid would close the entrance by being against the box. Did I explain that right?
Radar, can you find that thread?
Now that I contemplate that, probably the end under cleats were the same width with one having the slot.
Last edited by odfrank; 02-06-2014 at 09:49 PM. Reason: Contemplation
I don't know if you explained it right, but I think I get it. That's a good idea.
How durable is regular painted plywood? I've been using lumber, but it warps over time.
Two older threads that may be related to Ollie's comments, but I didn't find a thread that is clearly 'the one':
USDA Zone 7A Elevation 1400 ft
Not sure if anyone mentioned this. what if you molded concrete around a styrofoam lid. you could have your weight and your r value
I'm not tense, Just terribly, terribly alert!
To answer Sols recent question, a 3/4" exterior grade plywood is about all I would consider using if I weren't able to locate any of the aforementioned concrete form boards and I would definitely paint them and give them a front cleat to help with warping stability and to help hold the lid in place. I know one large beekeeper who made some excellant lids from 1" plywood, don't know where he found it, but it might be worth investigating as well.
I suspect that Ollie's sliding top cover design may be based on posts by Dan Williamson in these two threads:
Post #6: http://www.beesource.com/forums/show...-really-needed
Post #14: http://www.beesource.com/forums/show...ight=westerman
USDA Zone 7A Elevation 1400 ft
Leave it to Graham. Dan's post in the first link (complete with his own photo links) shows what he is doing pretty clearly. His lids aren't recessed and it appears it may be more of a vent than an upper entrance but it's a pretty simple concept to work from.
How about light-weight concrete? There is a backer board for ceramic tile installation made of cement and styrofoam beads. It is a lot lighter than regular backer board. Some of you smart guys need to figure out a formula for light weight and weather proof cement hive covers. Has anybody tried this?
Taking a different tack. I have found that Foamular http://www.homedepot.com/s/foamular+250?NCNI-5 to be useful for my nuc operation. A hole in a broodbox, a FBIC, and a rock does the trick. The rock is vital.
I don't think this is very suitable for a commercial guy, but for a sideliner it would work quite well.
Another design I remember seeing here on Beesource a few years ago was a top/bottom combo board. The beekeeper had just one board serving both functions, but I don't think he was palletized.
I looked up the Foamular technical bulletin. It says that the foam fades after a couple weeks and begins to lose thickness after two or three months. Can it be painted to compensate?
Sol, bees will chew on it, but I use a feedbag inner cover (FBIC) underneath which eliminates that problem. I am into my third year with unpainted foamular and it has faded, but it doesn't seem to make any functional difference to it. I have had 2 or 3 lids that small ants have taken up residence in via holes, but overall I am very satisfied with it and have no plans to use anything else. As you are moving to a cold area I think there are some big advantages to a lid that has built in insulation.
Oh, I nearly forgot. I don't know if it can be painted - I have never tried to. I use a handsaw to cut it, although folks tell me it will break along a scored line.
According to the website, it can be painted with oil or latex paint. I think that would help with chewing and ants too. That sounds like an excellent lid, costs about as much as good plywood, but would last along time with UV protection, and cuttable. Would be easy to cut a little slot for an upper entrance and insulation would be great too.
I've pondered on cutting an upper entrance into it, but I worry about the bees using that as an access point to chew on the foam. However, I should stop wussing and just try one. It is cheap enough to mess around with, perhaps the FBIC could be folded up.
If it were painted all around, I would think it wouldn't matter if there were a slot cut in it. My concern would be paint peeling after a while, experiments are required.