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Thread: Dado Blades

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Tucson, Arizona, USA
    Posts
    5,324

    Default Re: Dado Blades

    After I bought a table saw that had enough power and a long enough arbor to handle a 6" diameter x 3/4" wide, stacked dado set, I took a chance and bought a cheap carbide toothed set (not even brand named). I'm not sure, but I think it's from China. I've left it mounted on my "dado table saw", and use it for any dado cuts I make; mostly 3/8" deep dado's for joining the edges of super components, and the frame rest rabbet. I also use it to remove the waste on frame Top Bars, leaving the ears/lugs that support the frames in their hives, and I also use it to cut 3/8" deep x 7/8" wide grooves in the top edges of my homemade End Bars, just before making the final cuts that separate each individual End Bar, from their blanks. I use a sacrificial fence, adjust it so the 3/16" ears (providing a 3/8" bee space between frame Top Bars, once assembled) are left on the 1-1/4" wide, End Bars on the outside of the dado blades, feed the blanks about 1/2 way through, then reverse it, feed it all the way through, then reverse it again and the dado removes the remainder of the waste, this provides me with a nice, clean cut in the End Bar blanks, with almost no tear-out, and in just three passes per blank. Then they're ready for each individual End Bar to be cut off on the band saw. I keep all my tools, clean and lubricated between each use, and this $40 dado set is still serving very well, going on six years, now.
    48 years - 50 hives - TF
    Joseph Clemens -- Website Under Constructioni

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Park City Ky
    Posts
    1,802

    Default Re: Dado Blades

    Quote Originally Posted by Colino View Post
    Then you would not be happy with a wobble blade
    I agree, for making box joints I would recommend a dado set, but, a wobble dado will work for the groove in the side rail of a bottom board, or for the rabbet around the rim of a telescoping cover. It is easier to set up and get started.

    cchoganjr

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Nashville, TN, USA
    Posts
    32

    Default Re: Dado Blades

    Excellent information everyone. It sounds like the Diablo set from Home Depot would work for my needs, but considering the Oshlun from Amazon is roughly the same price I think I'll wait the day or two it would take to ship. The screw advance box joint jig looks super cool, but I think it's a little ambitious for me to try to build one of those at this point

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Reno, NV
    Posts
    2,923

    Default Re: Dado Blades

    I have heard it more than once that a woodworker will be best served in doing there best work on their jigs. Some find they enjoy making jigs more than they do the actual woodworking. I am that way at times. and the adjustable box joint jig is a great one to take on. make it a goal to achieve sort of thing. I tend to make dedicated non adjustable jigs but crossing that line to making a jig adjustable and precise. that can make a jig build feel as good as that first hive you made yourself.

    For me making my own really shows a difference when I stand looking at my hives knowing my hands built what I see. My family helps me do it so it lends that quality on an even larger scale. those hives are ours. we have the scars and splinters to prove it. It increases the value to everyone which is irreplaceable. But more importantly it causes my children to take ownership in what we do. It is hard when I want out and purchased everything for them to feel like it is theirs. building the equipment helps make that transition.
    Stand for what you believe, even if you stand alone.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Park City Ky
    Posts
    1,802

    Default Re: Dado Blades

    Well stated Daniel Y. I feel the same way.

    So often, on this Forum, people say you can buy it cheaper than making it. Often, that is true, but there is just something about building it yourself.

    cchoganjr

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Cairo Ga
    Posts
    22

    Default Re: Dado Blades

    It's worth all the work just to see my wife's smile when they turn out good.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Greenville, TX, USA
    Posts
    4,364

    Default Re: Dado Blades

    I have a Forrest Dado King for fine woodwork and a cheaper set for (Oldham I think) for rougher work. Check Ebay and Craigslist.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Evansville, IN
    Posts
    2,489

    Default Re: Dado Blades

    You should have at least one thread visible beyond the nut with the widest stack of blades installed. More is better, but one full thread is the minimum. That tells you that you have the full thread of the nut engaged.

    You will have to spend some money to get a flat bottomed dado, and likely still have to get the stinking things sharpened to get rid of the "glue space" everyone seem to want in the corner (really meaning that the outer blades are sharpened at an angle, usually with the heel somewhat higher than the chippers). Add on a worn arbor like mine and you NEVER get flat bottoms, but it's not all that big a deal if you use glue when assembling.

    You should also be aware that you will always get fairly rough cuts crossgrain in pine with these devices due to the variable density of the wood and the softness of the soft part. The bees won't mind, and hardwoods will cut very cleanly. Just the nature of the material. I'm finding that yellow pine for top bars works really well, nice crisp edges and clean cuts. Not worth much as end bars since they split when cross-nailed into the top bar.

    You also need adequate power to cut well -- now that I've repaired the neutral wire running from the house to the garage and can pull some juice (only the steel strand of the ACSR wire was intact, no current flow!) my saw cuts much better. I'll find out tomorrow how well it cuts a 7/8" dado in end grain. So far it hogged out 3/8" by 1" deep cuts across a 2x10 with no fuss.

    Peter

  9. #29
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Sarnia, Ontario, CA
    Posts
    15

    Default Re: Dado Blades

    Quote Originally Posted by beeman2009 View Post
    A little off but close to topic. Just what would be a "minimum" length for the arbor to safely handle a full stack?
    If the directions are followed the nut has to fully engaged on the threads. If you can't get all the blades on, the arbor is to short.

    Denis Allan

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Denver, Colorado
    Posts
    5,078

    Default Re: Dado Blades

    Quote Originally Posted by bsharp View Post
    Oshlun seems to be well-regarded (I have this set in mind), but at the end of the day I'm making beehives, not high-quality furniture. Maybe one of the cheapo sets would get the job done.
    Brandon, I own that set, I am 100% happy with it. I had previously owned a cheapo set, it went to the thrift store.

    I have used this set to build a bunch of boxes and lids as well as telescoping covers and queen castles. If you plan on doing more than just a couple, I would recommend it.
    Solomon Parker, Parker Farms, ParkerFarms.biz
    11 Years Treatment-Free, ~25 Colony Baseline

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Clackamas Oregon
    Posts
    731

    Default Re: Dado Blades

    Same here, oshlun dato set. I also do furniture but the steel set without the carbide teeth (Vermont American I think) was not long used. I would say that I was impressed with the chippers being full blades with carbide teeth. I did blow up a tooth on my set in the first six weeks and sent them an email. They sent me an entirely new chipper! I had the old one fixed and now I have an extra. I would not have done it different.
    “Why do we fall, sir? So that we might learn to pick ourselves up” Alfred Pennyworth Batman Begins (2005)

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Union County, Ky, USA
    Posts
    215

    Default Re: Dado Blades

    I have a freud. I have an older saw dedicated to box joints. Checkout youtube for some great videos on how to make a sled for cutting box joints.

    My setup works well. Before I started cutting box joints, I played around with several other joints. I had bad success with butt joints & rabbit Joints. Even with gorilla glue and pre drilled deck screws, the joint gives when you pry on one edge.

    You can use a jig saw and make one big box joint and it works well and is easy. I dont have any pics right now, but its like a box joint only there are one big box joint on one side, and one big mating edge on the other. You still have the wood on wood contact when wedging upward. Like I said, its kinda like having one big box joint on each edge. It works well and you only need a jig saw.

    I like the box joints though, they look more professional & they go together more square.


    Rob

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Stillwell, KS
    Posts
    645

    Default Re: Dado Blades

    I have a full shop and save a lot of money making covers, bottom boards, feeders, misc. and even frames, but when I add up the time to make boxes I can buy them in bulk cheaper than I can make them.

    Forrest makes darn good saw blades.

    Don

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Denver, Colorado
    Posts
    5,078

    Default Re: Dado Blades

    I don't have a full shop, but I agree Don. If I need a bunch of boxes, it just makes no sense to spend days making them when I can order them in bulk. I guess I've passed the point in my life where I have more time than money.
    Solomon Parker, Parker Farms, ParkerFarms.biz
    11 Years Treatment-Free, ~25 Colony Baseline

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Union County, Ky, USA
    Posts
    215

    Default Re: Dado Blades

    I agree with ya on the cost of the boxes. Personally, I wouldnt use enough of them to buy em in bulk. It's the shipping that seems to jack the price way up, in my opinion. The last time I purchased a box of woodenware, the shipping was almost as much as the carton of hive bodies.

    Plus, I like building them over the winter. Gives me something to do in the shop when its too cold to get outside. Gets me outta the house & away from the ole lady!

    Rob

  16. #36
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Greenville, TX, USA
    Posts
    4,364

    Default Re: Dado Blades

    Yep, I can pickup at Dadant with a 50 mile trip. Saves shipping and taxes. I buy 50 at a time to get the price break, and just assemble as I need them.

  17. #37
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Columbus, Oh
    Posts
    61

    Default Re: Dado Blades

    I just bought and 8"dia 3/4" stackable to find out by saw will only handle 6"dia 1/2".

    Anyone doing 3/4 cuts with an 1/2? Need an idea for a sled allow me to shift for the extra 1/4".

  18. #38
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Columbus, Oh
    Posts
    61

    Default Re: Dado Blades

    ....just answered my own question. Doesn't seem to be a big deal to go 1/2".

  19. #39
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Union County, Ky, USA
    Posts
    215

    Default Re: Dado Blades

    Jeyster,
    That old saw of mine has an arbor that is like an inch long or better. My whole dado stack fits on it. But, it was like a 1/2" or so in diameter which is an odd size. Just so happens that the hardware store sells arbor bushings for them. So, each dado blade has a 1/2 to 5/8 bushing in it. They fit nice & snug too, its kinda surprising. None of my newer saws have an arbor that long at all. I have an old skil brand stack dado & it goes as wide as 3/4 & it wont fit on any of the newer saws with the whole stack together.

    You can make any width dado cut. Just the narrower you go, the more you have to cut. Thats the only problem i see. If you call that a problem......

    Rob

  20. #40
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Columbus, Oh
    Posts
    61

    Default Re: Dado Blades

    Quote Originally Posted by Rob73 View Post
    Jeyster,
    That old saw of mine has an arbor that is like an inch long or better. My whole dado stack fits on it. But, it was like a 1/2" or so in diameter which is an odd size. Just so happens that the hardware store sells arbor bushings for them. So, each dado blade has a 1/2 to 5/8 bushing in it.
    Rob, My problem isn't the diameter of the shaft, it's 5/8". The length won't accommodate the additional stack. Also, although it's a 10" saw, it's not rated for the 8" dado. It's says to use the 6" and up to 1/2" per width. It's a fold-up job-site saw, so I assume the HP is not sufficient to power a larger, wider dado. If the shaft were long enough I'd try it, as it might work with pine.

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