Re: Nucs from Shallow Supers?
Make a separate inner cover for each for easy access. If you double stack, make a separate top box for each, not a divided single box.
I use my router table to shave off a bit of the shoulder on some of the frames. 4 frames allows too much room if the frames are not all drawn out. Five works better to start, but it will soon be too tight. Just use the 5th frame until they are all drawn out, then reduce to four so you don't get comb building on the side of the box. You could also use 4 frames and another follower board to take up space. I don;t use shallows anymore. I think deep frames get laid up and get worked better. But if you have them you might as well use them. For mating nucs they will work fine. You could also glue and screw a 1x2 around the bottom and use deep frames. That's what I do for all my divided deeps . I staple a 3/4" rim around the bottom and staple on a plywood bottom. I will never stack these and it is a fast secure bottom board for mating nucs.
Below are deeps, but you get the idea.
Below you can see the 3/4" rim on the bottom of the divided deep. This has a screened bottom, but I am using solid bottoms now. By attaching the bottom securely and securely at the divider, you help eliminate shrinkage gaps. You still have to check for divider shrinkage though. Even with very dry lumber, they can shrink or warp and create gaps for bees to jump ship from one side to the other.
3 frames and a one gallon interior feeder are good for starting out.
Tight tolerences when installing your divier. Clear silicone all gaps. Check later for shrinkage and more gaps. Close up all gaps.......Did I mention you may get gaps?
Last edited by Lauri; 01-19-2014 at 08:55 AM.
Lauri Miller. VSH Carniolan Hybrids. Glenn & Wild lines.
200+ hives, minimal mite treatments, no antibiotics or meds.