The drone comb has to be spaced a little further. The drone comb is a queen magnet. So in Spring she is eager to lay eggs on the drone comb. On the other comb facing the drone comb, no pollen will be stored, instead the queen lays eggs. This way all the brood combs get filled up with brood completely. The drone comb prevents the broodnest from getting clogged with pollen. So close one side of the broodnest with a drone comb. Behind the drone comb you put in a division board/divider, best is an insulated one. Leave out one or two combs, so a gap. Leave two combs with food, scratch some of the cells. The honey will be taken out of that comb by the bees and transfered closer to the broodnest. This empties those combs and it creates a small "nectar flow" inside the hive.
The broodnest is compact and pretty warm. Not too much pollen, so the queen can lay.
It is important to keep a slightly bigger spacing between drone comb and brood comb, because drone cells are longer thus reaching into the space between the combs. this can lead to pollen to be stored into the comb facing the drone comb.
First supering you add a frame with foundation right between the outer pollen comb.
Makes nicely drawn comb which gets brood immediately. So no clogging with nectar or pollen. Add more foundation right next to the pollen comb once the foundation is drawn, until the brood box is filled completely.
All the combs collected can be given into the super. You can extract the combs to get out the winter fodder if needed. But this way you have empty combs where you need them.
Because you compacted the broodnest, the bees readily go into the super. The broodnest is very warm when doing this. Not only because of the divider board, but because bees tend to wander around on all the combs in a hive in Spring. By taking the combs they sit closer together on the remaining combs and in early Spring this is beneficial.
Supering without compacting can be done in time by looking for most brood combs being capped. One comb of brood makes three combs of bees, so if you time your supering with the brood cycle results are much better.
If nothing helps compacting the broodnest helps in a too big a box.
I shook down hives in Spring to weigh the bee mass, because I always wondered why the bigger hive sizes always seem to be so populated. It turned out, that smaller hives have the same amount of bees as the bigger hive sizes. Bees just wander around on all combs. Do if you open a bigger sized hive and you see all frames populated, it is more impressive, of course. But the same amount of bees can be found in a smaller hive. Just my observation.
I reckon the compacted brood nest concentrates warmth and hygienic behaviour to a couple of combs instead of spreading the nursing and caring on all combs of a hive. Also it makes the most profit per box, than any other method.
If you work with all shallows, mediums, or 8-frame hives, this compacting is unneccessary. The boxes are small enough to keep the bees close together.