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Thread: Migratory lids

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
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    Portland, Oregon
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    83

    Default Migratory lids

    Post pictures of your lids, Trying to figure out new ideas.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Cheyenne, Wyoming, USA
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    1,705

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
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    Tipton, TN, USA
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    774

    Default Re: Migratory lids

    No picture of mine, but they look like the second picture in WesternBeekeepers. Except I have a dado down the middle where the top boards enter. Not sure I'd do it that way again in the future. Extra machining time, and the wood is weaken at the dado. I've had a few split from staples..
    Solo for the last 4 Years, ~60 Hives, TF + Oils.
    http://tradingwebsites4bees.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Stafford, Virginia
    Posts
    290

    Default Re: Migratory lids

    20130919_152234.jpg

    Here you go!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Brasher Falls, NY, USA
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    24,470

    Default Re: Migratory lids

    Are yours plywood w/ two 1X3s on top?

    What are you trying to figure out F&SA?
    Mark Berninghausen "Ships at a distance have every man's wish on board." Zora Neale Hurston

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Manitoba Canada
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    5,479

    Default Re: Migratory lids

    I have adopted the same lid as western also , I have tried using boards but never again. Now it's 3/4" plywood dipped all the way.
    The boards shrink regardless how dry you buy them, as each board dries differently and spaces always form. Also with the boards rot much quicker as syrup drippage finds it's way into the wood easier.
    Tops look good guys!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Brasher Falls, NY, USA
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    Default Re: Migratory lids

    Why do you have syrup dripping onto your covers?
    Mark Berninghausen "Ships at a distance have every man's wish on board." Zora Neale Hurston

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
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    Manitoba Canada
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    Default Re: Migratory lids

    Hive top pail feeders. I feed through a hole in the cover

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Tipton, TN, USA
    Posts
    774

    Default Re: Migratory lids

    What's the lifespan of a plywood top, before it starts to warp/delaminate?
    Solo for the last 4 Years, ~60 Hives, TF + Oils.
    http://tradingwebsites4bees.com

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Campbell River, BC, CA
    Posts
    382

    Default Re: Migratory lids

    What do you do about the feeder hole when not feeding ? Do you plug it with something ?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Brasher Falls, NY, USA
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    Default Re: Migratory lids

    Quote Originally Posted by Ian View Post
    Hive top pail feeders. I feed through a hole in the cover
    I see. Makes sense. I have a friend who has plywood migratory covers which are simply flat boards the size of the hive. He drills a hole the size of a standard door knob hole and has no problems w/ rotting covers. Maybe you should use pressure treated plywood?
    Mark Berninghausen "Ships at a distance have every man's wish on board." Zora Neale Hurston

  12. #12
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    Jan 2003
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    Manitoba Canada
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    5,479

    Default Re: Migratory lids

    The plywood tops do not rot, the slabs do . The spaces in between the boards is the problem , I found

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Brasher Falls, NY, USA
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    Default Re: Migratory lids

    Oh, yeah, that's what you said. Sorry.
    Mark Berninghausen "Ships at a distance have every man's wish on board." Zora Neale Hurston

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Jamestown, North Dakota, USA
    Posts
    125

    Default Re: Migratory lids

    I get cypress boards that are 17 inches wide and 3/4 inch thick so don't have to splice them together. Cypress is naturally rot-resistant and should outlast me. Otherwise, pretty much as Ian's set up but I have 1/2 inch spacers to raise the lid above the top box; I wanted the space to make a little more room for patties. I also leave about a 1/2 inch gap on one of the long sides of the lid to provide a top entrance and a little ventilation when it's hot. I reverse the lid so the opening faces the adjacent hive on a pallet when I make nucs to reduce robbing. I get the cypress from a small family-owned saw mill in east Texas.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
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    615

    Default Re: Migratory lids

    The other thing I noticed about Ian's is that he uses a 3 1/2 width cleat on top and hence, no but joint on top. This avoids the joint on top and ???any rotting caused by water ingress.

    Check Steppler Farms/Steppler Honey and October 2013.

    Good pic of his bee hive "towers".
    If you always do what you always did, you'll always get what you always got!

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
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    Manitoba Canada
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    Default Re: Migratory lids

    I guess the other way would provide more support to the side cleat. Probably preferable . I do some router work which really allows the glue to hold.

  17. #17
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    Jan 2003
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    Default Re: Migratory lids

    Quote Originally Posted by mgolden View Post

    Good pic of his bee hive "towers".
    I like to stack em

  18. #18
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Livermore, CA
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    1,345

    Default Re: Migratory lids

    My simple migratory lids with a 2 1/2" top entrance that be closed up or reduced with duct tape when needed.
    Coyote Creek Bees

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    groveton tx
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    112

    Default Re: Migratory lids

    Is that box hot wax dipped beeghost?

  20. #20
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Livermore, CA
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    1,345

    Default Re: Migratory lids

    Quote Originally Posted by babybee View Post
    Is that box hot wax dipped beeghost?
    Nope, just stained with redwood stain that I had laying around! They seem to be holding up good and the farmer where I keep my bees likes how they look! LOL
    Coyote Creek Bees

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