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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    grand rapids, michigan
    Posts
    316

    Default Re: Workable mouse guard?

    So I bought that corner bead, cut a couple pieces to size and drilled 3/8" holes. But I am a little concerned how sharp the edges are. I cleaned up the burrs but a little concerned that the edges could still injure the bees. Any thoughts?

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Utica, NY
    Posts
    8,429

    Default Re: Workable mouse guard?

    Not a chance but they could cut you.
    Brian Cardinal
    Zone 5a, Practicing non-intervention beekeeping

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Bertie County,NC
    Posts
    799

    Default Re: Workable mouse guard?

    Quote Originally Posted by frankthomas View Post
    So I bought that corner bead, cut a couple pieces to size and drilled 3/8" holes. But I am a little concerned how sharp the edges are. I cleaned up the burrs but a little concerned that the edges could still injure the bees. Any thoughts?
    I have tried to drill the corner beads out to 3/8"....but I can't get a good clean hole in the thin metal.

    Anyone have any suggestions of how to get the holes to drill cleanly?

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Rader, Greene County, Tennessee, USA
    Posts
    4,975

    Default Re: Workable mouse guard?

    Clamp the corner bead between two pieces of wood. Drill holes thru both the wood and metal. Avoid the existing holes.
    Graham
    USDA Zone 7A Elevation 1400 ft

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Grand Junction, Colorado, USA
    Posts
    228

    Default Re: Workable mouse guard?

    I posted a picture above of corner bead that has all the holes predrilled, bought it at Home Depot. Check around for other suppliers even take a picture and show them what you are looking for, maybe they can order it.
    Jack Moore ~ Sticky Bear Apiary
    Zone 7a ~ Elev: 4840ft. ~ https://www.facebook.com/StickyBearApiary

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    St. Albans, Vermont
    Posts
    5,127

    Default Re: Workable mouse guard?

    So many over the top mouse guards...

    Lose the wooden reducer part. Cut the 1/2" hardware cloth into 4" strip...as long as your bottom entrance. Fold into wedge the long way and insert. Done.

    I've used them a long time and have seen no issues...isn't 40 years long enough to know?

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 1999
    Location
    DuPage County, Illinois USA
    Posts
    9,196

    Default Re: Workable mouse guard?

    Michael, do you use 3/8 or 3/4 front entrance?
    Regards, Barry

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    St. Albans, Vermont
    Posts
    5,127

    Default Re: Workable mouse guard?

    Two sizes...3/4 and 7/8. Works on both.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 1999
    Location
    DuPage County, Illinois USA
    Posts
    9,196

    Default Re: Workable mouse guard?

    I keep 3/8" gap year around and have had mice get in by slightly chewing the bottom of the hive body, which measured about 1/2" high. Perhaps because they had no restriction side to side they elongated to get in. With 1/2 wire restriction, I guess that could be the difference.
    Regards, Barry

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Rader, Greene County, Tennessee, USA
    Posts
    4,975

    Default Re: Workable mouse guard?

    I suspect the key to Michael Palmer's method is that the 1/2" wire is folded into a "V". That has the effect of making the 1/2" holes smaller, because the holes are no longer vertical and there are two levels of wire that a mouse has to deal with..
    Graham
    USDA Zone 7A Elevation 1400 ft

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Utica, NY
    Posts
    8,429

    Default Re: Workable mouse guard?

    Quote Originally Posted by NewJoe View Post
    I have tried to drill the corner beads out to 3/8"....but I can't get a good clean hole in the thin metal.

    Anyone have any suggestions of how to get the holes to drill cleanly?
    The best way to get a clean hole in thin metal is punch it. The second best way is to drill a series of increasing sized holes a little at a time. The simple way to do that is to buy a step drill. Most electricians have one as a friend. For what you are doing I would look for a cheap one at Harbor Freight.
    Last edited by Acebird; 11-04-2013 at 05:56 AM.
    Brian Cardinal
    Zone 5a, Practicing non-intervention beekeeping

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Searcy, AR in the Ozark Foothills
    Posts
    23

    Default Re: Workable mouse guard?

    I use 1/2 inch hardware cloth.
    I cut them 4 meshes wide by however long I need them.
    I go up 1 mesh and bend it in an L shape.
    It fits right in the mouth and I staple it in place.
    I have not had a mouse in my hives.
    I've found the 3/8" holes make it hard for the bees to enter.

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Crystal Water, Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    888

    Default Re: Workable mouse guard?

    How would this sytem work - with 10 mm holes - big enough for the bees, to small for any mouse.
    http://www.qualitybeekeepingsupplies...gue-2/47-tools
    ( this is an entrance closer - holes are to small for your pupose)
    from the Bee House -http://ecologicalsolutions.com.au/bees/?page_id=8
    40 years - +/- 20 H - TF - Subtropical

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Reno, NV
    Posts
    2,611

    Default Re: Workable mouse guard?

    Quote Originally Posted by NewJoe View Post
    I have tried to drill the corner beads out to 3/8"....but I can't get a good clean hole in the thin metal.

    Anyone have any suggestions of how to get the holes to drill cleanly?
    Top quality bit and a backing board. Get something that drills aluminum or brass well and you have found the ticket.
    Stand for what you believe, even if you stand alone.

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 1999
    Location
    DuPage County, Illinois USA
    Posts
    9,196

    Default Re: Workable mouse guard?

    As Ace said, a step bit works well. Since it doesn't have spiraling flutes, it won't grab the metal and pull it towards you.
    Regards, Barry

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