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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Vero Beach, Florida
    Posts
    23

    Default "Quick" end bar question

    I am getting ready to make some progress on my first larger (250) batch of medium frames from scratch, simple question.

    How far should the wider portion of the end bar go before it narrows? In my experience this (the fatter upper portion) is where the bees propolise the frames together, wouldn't I want it to be only far enough to facilitate handling multiple frames at a time? Like say 2"?

    The "BIY" pdf plans for Dadant style frames here on beesource suggest 2 5/8 for medium frames" Anybody have any input?

    Sys

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    46,121

    Default Re: "Quick" end bar question

    I make all my frames 1 1/4" wide at the end bars. A standard Hoffman frame is 1 3/8".

    http://www.bushfarms.com/beesframewidth.htm
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Vero Beach, Florida
    Posts
    23

    Default Re: "Quick" end bar question

    As are my frames, I really like to be able to fit 9 frames (8 frame equip) in my brood boxes. My question was more along the lines of how far down the 1 1/4" goes before the end bar narrows.

    Sys

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Algoma dr. Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    815

    Default Re: "Quick" end bar question

    Those surfaces help hold the frames in vertical alignment and straighten any twist in individual frames. I made that section approximately the same as the mann lake frames I use
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Vero Beach, Florida
    Posts
    23

    Default Re: "Quick" end bar question

    Are those deeps?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    46,121

    Default Re: "Quick" end bar question

    The upside of longer ones is the frames flop less. The upside of shorter ones is the bees can communicate better and when sliding frames together less bees get trapped. You can do anything from no inlet (straight end bars 1 1/4" wide) to just a nail that holds them apart with 1" end bars. I usually do 1" end bars with a nail for the spacer. Carl Killion did something similar.

    http://www.bushfarms.com/images/KillionNailSpacing.jpg
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Algoma dr. Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    815

    Default Re: "Quick" end bar question

    Quote Originally Posted by nwvandersys View Post
    Are those deeps?
    Standard 9 1/8 X 1 1/4 width.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Evansville, IN
    Posts
    2,492

    Default Re: "Quick" end bar question

    I don't really measure mine, but made them similar to the factory Hoffman frames. Anything over an inch and a half should work, and more than 2.5" is probably going to be similar to leaving them uncut.

    I have some in use that I did not cut back, and it's really necessary to scrape the propolis off every time you take them apart to get them to fit back in properly. The short sections, when properly installed, don't get so gummy.

    If you drill for cross wires, probably leaving them full width down to the first hole will work just fine.

    I taper mine on the jointer, so it's pretty easy to clamp a stop block on and go to town on them. Same deal on a router table, I think.

    Peter

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