Where do you guys get your boxes?
Where do you guys get your boxes?
Wherever I can. I especially appreciate when I can obtain the resources to build my own -- I like to build a few details into my supers that aren't exactly, standard.
48 years - 50 hives - TF
Joseph Clemens -- Website Under Constructioni
Know the source. I received many of my boxes from my Father-in-law, and others I have purchased from Mann Lake and constructed myself. Again, I have to emphasize the importance of knowing the source. The last thing you want are contaminated, dirty boxes for your bees.
"Life will find a way - it always finds a way." -Jurassic Park (MOVIE/BOOK)
USDA Zone 5a
Walter Kelley's in Clarkson, Ky or Dadant in Frankfort, Ky. Make the 70 minute drive down to Kelley's once a year to stock up. Also newbies that lost interest or had failed packages, an old beekeeper getting to old to care for bees and his sons don't want to do it. The old timer practically gave them too me for free, just happy to see someone carry on the hobby and make good use of the equipment.
I buy mine at the lumberyard in the form of 1x12s.
Making hives is quite simple and requires none of the fancy joinery you see on the boxes in the catalogs.
Titebond III and simple butt joints serve me very well when properly glued and nailed.
I used to make rabbet joints but have found no advantage, as the titebond is actually stronger than the wood when fully cured.
I have what's left of a hive smashed by a bear to prove proper butt joints are stronger than the wood!
I love the tightbond. People who don't use glue are stupid. :-) The finger-joints eventually loosen and become wobbly without glue, unless screwed.
Have had great service and product from Shastina
Yup Shastina has been a great company to work with so far really like the free branding.
I make my own. I use gorilla glue but titebond works great also. I use box joints I think that they are a little better than butt joints over time. I build a simple jig to make the joints and a dado blade on my table saw. I watch Craigs list for free wood but I still have to buy some. Be sure to ask if you are getting free wood if it has ever been sprayed or treated with anything.
We did buy a bunch from Dadant for a class I help teach and their boxes were very very nice.
We buy from Western Bee in Montana. They have a nice box and good prices. We only get their budget boxes, plenty good for bees.
"Suppose you were an idiot and suppose you were a member of Congress. But I repeat myself." - Mark Twain
Dadant and Kelly have good boxes, but we prefer the handholds in the Killian boxes. They are N.W. of San Fransisco, and do a great job of packing a pallet, bundled with sticks thru the box joints. We never had a reject part, all pieces worked.
Shastina, great box and great service. Ron Knight is a good guy to work with.
Clear Lake Wi. / Sebring Fl.
I usually make my own. I make commercial grade boxes for about $7 apeice + labor. If I don't have time to make them, I always go to and will always recommend Western Bee Supplies in Polson, MT. Get the budget ones.
Should be able to get that down to under $4.50 if you plane up 1x12 pine sheeting buying in bulk, that includes a new dado blade for every thousand boxes and 225 bucks per thousand for misc expenses... I figure I have about $19.80 plus about 25 minutes of labor at whatever rate you value your time in a nine frame super with frame spacers, frames and foundation... What lumber are you using?
Browning Cut stock in Julietta ID
Bought my first few dozen from Kelley, through a guy who stocked them in his shop near me. I noticed a bit of wander in the box joints on the last batch I bought. The shop went out of business and I decided to make my own, with cleats instead of cutout handholds. Cheaper? No, not if I include the time I spend. But I do not have any QC issues. Wait...yes I do. But I am getting better.
Pete. New 2013, 12 hives, zone 6a
To study and not think is a waste. To think and not study is dangerous.
there is a guy in SD. that is cuttting the joints with a lazer of some sort. the joints have a rounded touch to them not square like mann lake or dadant. also the hand grips are deeper and much better for lifting a heavy deep of honey. his prices are right on the money and i think he uses a much better quality wood than the other guys. really not impressed with mann lakes pine. i have seen boxes rot that i double dipped in oil base paint only 3 years ago.
i cant believe no one else talked about him yet..... cant think of his name or the town hes in out there but i know he has a add in bee journal
Try Beeline Apiaries and Woodenware, Rochester, WA, 360.280.5274, firstname.lastname@example.org
From Exit 88 on I-5, take Hwy 12 West approx. 6.7 miles. Turn LEFT (South) onto Moon Rd SW. Go 1 mile to Beeline Apiaries on the right.
I have bought from their Pennsylvania shop and have been very pleased with quality and price.
PS: they have a 1/2 page add in Bee Culture magazine this month