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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Fort Wayne, Indiana, USA
    Posts
    106

    Default Question about CheckMite +

    Hello,

    I read the instructions for CheckMite +. However, I don't have a solid bottom board. I have a screened bottom board. So where do I place the strips for a screened bottom board for SHB?

    Thank you,

    JimmyA

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Rader, Greene County, Tennessee, USA
    Posts
    4,975

    Default Re: Question about CheckMite +

    Hmm, I don't see why an SBB would make any difference. From the mainufacturer:

    For beetle infestation: just lay them in.

    Using CheckMite+ strips to control beetle infestation is similar to the method employed for Varroa mite control, but there are important differences. Prior to use, remove the honey combs and only reinsert them 14 days after the strips have been removed. Cut a strip into two halves and stick these to a piece of cardboard. Place this on the middle of the floor board and attach it with adhesive tape so that the bees cannot eat it or remove it. The strips should be facing downwards. Leave this in the hive for a minimum of 42 days and a maximum of 45 days. The timing of the treatment is the same: prior to initial honey flow in the spring and following the last honey harvest in the autumn. Do not treat the hives more than four times per year for beetle infestation and do not use the strips when the bees are producing surplus honey.

    http://www.animalhealth.bayer.com/3424.0.html

    You should be able to tape the cardboard to the screen. If you feel that won't work, instead of cardboard, use a thin piece of wood and just set the wood on the screen.

    And for those that suggest hanging the strips, note that the OP is asking about SHB control. The manufacturer provides different instructions for using Checkmite+ to control varroa. Click the link above for more info.
    Graham
    USDA Zone 7A Elevation 1400 ft

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Fort Wayne, Indiana, USA
    Posts
    106

    Default Re: Question about CheckMite +

    On the bottom board I have a top screen, then a plastic cardboard bottom sheet, then a screen under that. The cardboard bottom sheet can be removed. It's white plastic. I think it's to see varroa mites that drop from the hive. Should the Checkmite + be on the top screen or under the top screen on the white cardboard plastic? Should I remove the white cardboard plastic sheet or what?

    Thanks.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Rader, Greene County, Tennessee, USA
    Posts
    4,975

    Default Re: Question about CheckMite +

    Put the Checkmite on top of the screen, so that it is accessible to the beetles (and bees) that have not passed through the screen.
    Graham
    USDA Zone 7A Elevation 1400 ft

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Fort Wayne, Indiana, USA
    Posts
    106

    Default Re: Question about CheckMite +

    Thank you, I have it done. I used duct tape on the top of the cardboard, Checkmite facing towards the bottom, stapled, as directed. Only thing I forgot is to tape it to the screen. It's on 4x4. I cannot see how the bees could move the 4x4. I did notice a few hive beetles on the bottom board.

    JimmyA

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Heavener Oklahoma
    Posts
    920

    Default Re: Question about CheckMite +

    Going to try this shb treatment does not have to be put on bottom.


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Fort Wayne, Indiana, USA
    Posts
    106

    Default Re: Question about CheckMite +

    Quote Originally Posted by Velbert View Post
    Going to try this shb treatment does not have to be put on bottom.
    That looks like a good idea. I've had my Checkmite in for several days now. I still saw a hive beetle crawling on a frame. Some dead on the bottom that fell through the screen after contact. I was just thinking what about the beetles on the frames that don't fall? Seems like they would never have contact with the poison.
    Last edited by Barry; 08-09-2013 at 06:06 AM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 1999
    Location
    DuPage County, Illinois USA
    Posts
    9,196

    Default Re: Question about CheckMite +

    How long have you been beekeeping, Jimmy? Long enough to know the history of Checkmite and that it's considered the most toxic of treatments out there? I always hate to see beekeepers resorting to this product.
    Regards, Barry

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Heavener Oklahoma
    Posts
    920

    Default Re: Question about CheckMite +

    If done wright if using for shb the bees don't come in contact with the checkmite that other piece of plasticell is placed on top with just enough gap for the shb to get into. Bees may come into contact with very very low amount when dragging out the shb that the check mite has killed.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Fort Wayne, Indiana, USA
    Posts
    106

    Default Re: Question about CheckMite +

    I was in beekeeping for 5 years years ago. There were varroa mites but no hive beetles. Just started this year again and found out about the beetles. I don't have any supers on so no worry about the honey for human consumption. Once you let them go and get hive beetle larva in your hive, that hive is done.
    Last edited by JimmyA; 08-03-2013 at 09:41 AM. Reason: Amendment

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Fort Wayne, Indiana, USA
    Posts
    106

    Default Re: Question about CheckMite +

    I found a hive beetle on a grass blade ready to try and fly in. These things are menacing! They actuall fly from other hives for miles and infect other hives. This is not good. They came from Sub Saharon Africa! Go figure with all the world trade and travel. I have one hive with a Minnesota Hygenic and the other with a Russian (queens). I plan on fighting the hive beetles.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Mtn. View, Arkansas, USA
    Posts
    1,151

    Default Re: Question about CheckMite +

    JimmyA: You have never said how many beetles you are seeing in your colony. Unless you are seeing several hundred each time you go in you probably don't need to be treating.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Fort Wayne, Indiana, USA
    Posts
    106

    Default Re: Question about CheckMite +

    I have seen 8 but it only takes 1 to lay eggs and then you have larvae. See, I have underdeveloped nucs that I started late, so they need some extra protection.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Mtn. View, Arkansas, USA
    Posts
    1,151

    Default Re: Question about CheckMite +

    The type of bees you say you have handle the beetles well. They keep the beetles cornered and will clean the eggs out befoe they hatch. The only thing you need to do is to be sure you don't over super so that the bees have more area to patrol than they can handle. Just keep the population of adult bees strong and forget the checkmite, you will have no problems.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Fort Wayne, Indiana, USA
    Posts
    106

    Default Re: Question about CheckMite +

    That's my situation, I have some frames that are not drawn out. It's too late in the season to find more bees for hive support. I am getting some bee larva, feeding sugar water, trying to get the frames drawn out so the queens can continue to lay. I have a robber screen but still have robbing, I think.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Fort Wayne, Indiana, USA
    Posts
    106

    Default Re: Question about CheckMite +

    I was working them today and another hive beetle flew in.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Taylor County, Georgia, USA
    Posts
    663

    Default Re: Question about CheckMite +

    Jimmy, take a breath brother.

    If you have enough bees to cover the drawn frames (undrawn frames are not a problem), they will easily take care of any SHB larvae that hatches. If you have 10 beetles in a hive, you don't have a problem. You really only need to treat if you see a significant amount of them during an inspection.

    Also, there are a few non toxic treatments that work extremely well and keep you from having to use checkmite.
    Try it. What could happen?

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Fort Wayne, Indiana, USA
    Posts
    106

    Default Re: Question about CheckMite +

    Yes, I am going to leave them in for 45 days and then quit with Checkmite. I have installed some traps from the various bee catalogs. And no, I don't have enough bees to cover all drawn frames completely. The bees are working on wax and doing fine. I have eggs in one nuc. Looking for eggs on the other soon.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Fort Wayne, Indiana, USA
    Posts
    106

    Default Re: Question about CheckMite +

    John Pluta has a nice trap used just in the entrance for hive beetles. I order a few. Looks like it will help.

    Jim

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Taylor County, Georgia, USA
    Posts
    663

    Default Re: Question about CheckMite +

    I have some of John's traps. They work fairly well. Some bees have a tendency to propolize the holes. For me, the jury is still out on if I like John's traps or the better beetle blaster oil trap better.
    Try it. What could happen?

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