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Eight frame hive, ten frame super

4K views 18 replies 10 participants last post by  Acebird 
#1 ·
I donated my 8 frame hive to a friend that has 10 frame styro equipment. (He lost his package in shipment)

He has plastic frames and starting brand new he has no comb and I have no foundation to work with. I am not thrilled about plastic frames but I was thinking I could build some comb for him by using his boxes on top of my hive. So the question becomes how do you stop up the two frame gap that would be at the bottom of the first super?
 
#4 ·
Cut a sheet of plywood to the outer dimensions of the ten frame super.
I thought about doing this but didn't like how thin the section would be at the ends of the top bars. Then it hit me. All I need to do is screw on two blocks of wood on the top of the wooden 8 framer to stretch it out to a ten instead of dealing with the styro. Then just take the blocks off when I give him back his styro 10 frame.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Good engineers are tough to find in Utica! :lookout:

> who is Bob?

It's a catch phrase dating back to 1887, when, in a blatant case of favoritism, British Prime Minister Robert Cecil (a.k.a. Lord Salisbury) decided to appoint his nephew Arthur Balfour to the prestigious and sensitive post of Chief Secretary for Ireland.

So "Bob's your uncle" is another way of saying "your success is guaranteed."
You just put these parts together like this, and Bob's your uncle - you have a working model!

You want to go to the stadium? Go straight on until you reach the park, take the first left, and Bob’s your uncle - you're there!

http://www.urbandictionary.com/defin...20your%20uncle
.
 
#13 ·
I neglected to mention that there is an issue with bee space until I received some suggestions.

The styro box has the frames setting 1/4 down from the top edge and flush with the bottom. My frames set 1/8 down from the top. Not quite enough to create a good bee space between the two boxes. So I was thinking of cutting up my plastic excluder to allow free access to the three outside frames leaving the mesh in the center. This would give me the added space between the two boxes for a proper bee space.

Now for the cardboard spacing ... would you center the 10 frame and make two spacers or offset the 10 frame and make the space for two frames?
 
#14 ·
I just did like Kavtater said - used a piece of plywood with a big hole cut in the center. I don"t think the bees mind if the measurements are not exact - I do not find many square trees with bees in them.
Charlie

13 hives - zone 5
 
#17 ·
Thanks Mark. I was going to go for symmetry but art is probably more appropriate for beekeeping.

Oh, off topic but my beginner friend painted his boxes black! Will one of those on top of a white hive be Okay and should I tell him to repaint his boxes another color?
 
#18 ·
Other than absorbing more sunlight and getting hotter I don't see any problem w/ black super on top of a white hive. The bees will still use it.

How tall a hive will this be? Maybe having two frames more over on one side isn't such a good idea, if the hive gets high and top heavy. I could see this thing falling over later in the year.
 
#19 ·
Yeah, I was concerned about that two. One is five medium boxes high and the other is seven. Yesterday they were bearding like crazy until the T-storm hit. I just propped the covers on both hives. I am not going to put anything on top of the seven. Too high for me to manage.
Anyone local that wants to set up a swarm box on our property is welcomed. Actually I have a 10 frame deep box and brood comb that you can use. It is setting next to the hives now but I don't think that is too effective.
 
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