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Thread: Ross Round Help

  1. #1
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    Default Ross Round Help

    I decided I wanted to try a super of Ross rounds. I put the super on about 3 weeks ago at the same time I supered a hive next to it. Checked both today and the regular super has been drawn out and honey is being stored. The rounds have done nothing, no appearance of the foundation being drawn out at all. Any suggestions, could I have done something wrong. Any help, advice, suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

  2. #2
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    Nov 2012
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    Flynn, TX, USA
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    Default Re: Ross Round Help

    I don't know but would certainly be interested in the answer! Our Ross Rounds don't seem to be going anywhere either and we're in the height of flow in TX.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Ross Round Help

    Quote Originally Posted by rlc5925 View Post
    I decided I wanted to try a super of Ross rounds. I put the super on about 3 weeks ago at the same time I supered a hive next to it. Checked both today and the regular super has been drawn out and honey is being stored. The rounds have done nothing, no appearance of the foundation being drawn out at all. Any suggestions, could I have done something wrong. Any help, advice, suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

    Few questions.
    1. any excluders involved in this transaction?
    2. What percentage of capped brood was below?
    3. How many boxes below the RR?

    FYI: Any quality RR needs to be capped in two weeks or less or the wax is in the YUK category IMO.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Ross Round Help

    Quote Originally Posted by Honey-4-All View Post
    Few questions.
    1. any excluders involved in this transaction?
    2. What percentage of capped brood was below?
    3. How many boxes below the RR?

    FYI: Any quality RR needs to be capped in two weeks or less or the wax is in the YUK category IMO.
    1 Yes, an excluder is being used
    2 Probably 2-4 frames
    3 RR is above the brood box. I flipped a regular super that was 90% capped

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Ross Round Help

    for good comb production you need a super above the comb box, and a huge density of bees... anything less than full trafic they will take forever to draw them.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Ross Round Help

    Quote Originally Posted by gmcharlie View Post
    for good comb production you need a super above the comb box, and a huge density of bees... anything less than full trafic they will take forever to draw them.
    By comb box do you also mean brood box?

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Ross Round Help

    Quote Originally Posted by rlc5925 View Post
    1 Yes, an excluder is being used
    2 Probably 2-4 frames
    3 RR is above the brood box. I flipped a regular super that was 90% capped

    Try this
    1. Excluder tossed south of the Rio Grande.
    2. One box. 8 frames brood.. mostly capped.
    3. 15 or more frames of bees ( as previously mentioned crammed bees make better comb.)
    4. As per the comment about a box above. Absolutely not..... especailly if you are not into travel staining on nice white caps. Whats the point of this one? Comb is bee art at its best. Travel stains are like throwing a bucket of cheap paint at the Mona Lisa. Why?

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Ross Round Help

    Forgot the most important thing of all.

    #5. One strong honey flow.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    Wausau, WI, USA
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    Default Re: Ross Round Help

    Quote Originally Posted by rlc5925 View Post
    By comb box do you also mean brood box?
    No, he's talking about honey in the comb (Ross Rounds).

    You need a huge population of bees to do comb honey (Ross Rounds or cut comb). 2-4 frames of brood is way short of the strength you need to be at IMHO. Some comb honey producers take a strong double hive and will split it, while forcing most of the bee population into 1 brood box and almost all the capped brood. Then a comb super is added. Comb honey should be drawn and filled in very little time. This helps keep the cappings as white as posible. The whiter the better.

    Wisnewbee
    Honey Luv Farm

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Ross Round Help

    Should have put almost full box above..... Cause with an excluder and nothing above the bees will hardly ever draw......but you knew that so you tossed the excluder,,,,you can leave the excluder in place if there is another reason there headed up...... I like you prefer not, but that was this persons setup.

    no your comb box is not a brood box.... your comb box is the container your useing for ross rounds... A super is regular honey comb. WHat I shoot for is the bees that are headed up to the old supers now have to walk into my rounds (I use kelly boxes) and say,,"hey lets stop here" if there is no storage above for them to head to, they won't bother with the plastic. but with 2-3 frames of brood your short already.

  11. #11
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    Bloomfield,KY
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    Default Re: Ross Round Help

    If you have 2 deeps for brood boxes put all brood and all bees into one deep and one med then put on the RR super. Bees seem to not want to work the RR so you basically have to give them no other choice for a place to store honey. The flow they are working must be a good strong flow. Good luck.
    "Of all God's creatures, only the honeybee improves its environment and preys on no other species."--Haydon Brown

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Ross Round Help

    My suggestion would be, at the same time you toss the queen exculder, you also toss the Ross Rounds. I gave my two away.

    They are nice when they make them, but, you will find that they require constant management. Moving frames, taking out partially filled, some rounds will never get fully capped, making them unusable. You need to harvest as they are finished, put new starter in. You must keep bees very crowded which will encourage swarming.

    If I were going to make Ross Rounds, I would force the bees into one 10 frame deep. I would remove the queen when I had 6 to 10 frames of brood. Remove any queen cells for the next 6 days, then use the bees until the colony really starts to diminish and then reintroduce a queen to save the colony. Without a queen, they will spend all their time making honey, (not tending brood) and they don't get the urge to swarm.

    To me it just wasn't worth the constant effort. The percentage of perfect combs was always small. The perfect ones are very pretty, but not worth the effort required.

    cchoganjr

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Ross Round Help

    Quote Originally Posted by Cleo C. Hogan Jr View Post
    My suggestion would be, at the same time you toss the queen exculder, you also toss the Ross Rounds. I gave my two away.

    cchoganjr
    From a guy who has hundreds of these stored unused for over 15 years I heartily agree. We have switched to all cut comb. Much easier to deal with and produce. The parts are cheaper and don't need to be kept sparkling clean to be marketable. Tom Ross was a great guy to deal with but the product fits outside of what I would call high value on the costs vs expenses ratio list. The lady who buys my cut comb called last week and offered 20% above last years price as she want s all she can get. If I don't get $12 a pound in CA this year we don't deal with it. More like $25 in AK. To hard on the bees and surely labor intensive. Love to produce it as the customers consider it "Bee Art" which it truly is. the rules on cramming with CC are similar but not as critical as with the finicky RR.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Ross Round Help

    Thanks all

  15. #15
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    Aug 2005
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    Fort Wayne, IN
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    Default Re: Ross Round Help

    In this part of the world comb honey is not in high demand. When I have a heavy flow on I put a RR on and in most years the bees will fill it pretty well. Excluder not needed as the Q does not like laying in all that plastic and will usually stay out.

  16. #16
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    Aug 2002
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    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
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    Default Re: Ross Round Help

    Lose the excluder, do a cut down split two weeks before the flow. Don't put the super on until then.

    http://www.bushfarms.com/beessplits.htm#cutdown
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

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