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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Shickshinny, Pennsylvania
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    812

    Default Deep hive foundation

    Well I thought I was going to be able to go with all med. supers but now that I'm getting nucs I will need some deep equipment after all . I was going to try something tougher like duragilt until I heard the reports so since I like good old wax crimped wire foundation will I have to wire it horizontal also .

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Alabaster, Alabama, USA
    Posts
    204

    Default Re: Deep hive foundation

    I would.

    You can use 10# mono fishing line and it supports it just fine.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Shickshinny, Pennsylvania
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    812

    Default Re: Deep hive foundation

    Greg ,Glad you brought that up ! I kind of forgot the fishing line seems like alot are using it and it seems easier , does it hold up and stay tight with temps cold and hot .

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Alabaster, Alabama, USA
    Posts
    204

    Default Re: Deep hive foundation

    Yes. It does fine. You can cut through it too if you want to cut out queen cells.

    Fatbeeman has some YouTube videos showing how he wires with mono.

    Instead of hammering the nails we use channel lock pliers to press in the small nails. It's easier to sit on the recliner and wire them like that.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Shickshinny, Pennsylvania
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    812

    Default Re: Deep hive foundation

    Thanks Greg , I have a ton of fishing !! of course everyone probably figured that !

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Humboldt Co., California
    Posts
    55

    Default Re: Deep hive foundation

    Laketrout,

    I am a new bee keeper -- and I am using some deeps so I decided to try both embedded wire and fishing line and bobby pins ( a la Fat Beeman) just to see the difference -- and since I have two hives, one is Duragilt while the other is wax foundation. I have Russian bees on the wax and Italians on the duragilt.

    So far, the Russians are having no problem with either the wire or fishing line and bobby pins. I checked them on Wednesday and they are building up comb over all that stuff which surprised me because I thought there might be some small voids over the fishing line but so far there isn't. Time will tell.

    As far as the duragilt - I also expected problems with it based upon what I read; however, the Italians are building it up like crazy and no problems with it so far. It is easy to install.

    So, these are my observations based upon limited experience - I'll adjust my technique as a gain more experience.

    Good luck.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Shickshinny, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    812

    Default Re: Deep hive foundation

    What about plasticell , I think I will stay away from duragilt for now , so its either wax or plasticell . I'm not sure what the nucs will have in them for foundation material , but if its plastic or some other man made material and I give them wax they will think there in heaven and build right away.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Shickshinny, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    812

    Default Re: Deep hive foundation

    Also with one deep brood box will I want two mediums on top for brood or would I be better off with two deep brood chambers or doesn't it matter . Problem is if I go with two deeps for brood all of my medium crimped wire foundation is useless to me right now .

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Humboldt Co., California
    Posts
    55

    Default Re: Deep hive foundation

    Well, if you already have medium boxes and medium wax foundation, I would just use them and then, cut down my deep - when I could - to a medium size.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Shickshinny, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    812

    Default Re: Deep hive foundation

    How do you go about moving a deep into a medium , do you wait until the comb is about done and then make the switch with new foundation and frames , and then place it on top of the other brood boxes.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Summerfield, NC
    Posts
    67

    Default Re: Deep hive foundation

    Try continually bottom-supering the hive with the deep boxes. Eventually, the queen will work her way down into the mediums. Frames can also be shaken free of bees and put in the deep nucs when you catch a swarm.

    The medium foundation isn't worthless in deep frames. Pull the wire out, wire the frame empty, then put the unwired medium foundation in the deep frame and push the wires into the wax. The bees will use it as a "starter strip", like this one: http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com...oductinfo/208/

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Shickshinny, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    812

    Default Re: Deep hive foundation

    Miller , when you say bottom supering with deeps do you mean to always leave a deep on the bottom .All of my brood medium foundation is crimp wire .

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Jacksonville, Florida
    Posts
    1,620

    Default Re: Deep hive foundation

    If you just keep adding medium boxes on top you should be able to get them up into two or three mediums. Then by next spring the bottom deep will be completely empty if you want to take it out.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Summerfield, NC
    Posts
    67

    Default Re: Deep hive foundation

    Quote Originally Posted by laketrout View Post
    Miller , when you say bottom supering with deeps do you mean to always leave a deep on the bottom .All of my brood medium foundation is crimp wire .
    No, I meant if the bees are already in a deep box, building comb for your nucs, and you eventually want that hive in medium equipment, put the mediums that you have on the bottom. The queen will work her way down into the medium boxes of drawn comb, and as you remove the deep hive bodies from the top when full of honey, the entire hive will soon be back in medium equipment, and you'll have a box of deep drawn comb.

    Or, if time isn't a factor on getting the deep frames empty and in storage for the next nuc/swarm, you can just put the mediums on the top like johng said, and they'll work their way up out of the deep over the winter. Most of mine were wintered over double deeps, with several wet shallow supers above them that were extracted last June and never removed (bad beekeeping, but I got lucky with no major hive beetle problems). By February, none of the hives had any brood or honey in the bottom deep. Considering the work involved in lifting full boxes during spring, combined with the fact that many extractors either won't hold deeps, or will only hold a few deep frames...it might be better to just let them work their way out of the deep over the winter.

    Your foundation doesn't matter that much; you can pull the wires out of the foundation and put the now-unwired medium foundation in deep frames. Wire the deep frame without foundation first, then pop the wedge off and put the sheet of medium foundation in the frame. Nail the wedge back in and sink the wires into the wax, and the bees will build it out just fine. They won't miss that two inches at the bottom, once they get started. Just make sure the hive is level, or they might draw a frame too deep at the bottom, and subsequently go too shallow and ignore the space at the bottom of the next frame. I'm trying to switch to all mediums, and I've put shallow foundation in medium frames and had good luck with it. If I had to do everything all over again, me being a cheapskate, I would probably buy all deep foundation, cut it into four strips, and do forty frames with ten sheets of foundation.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Johnson City, TN
    Posts
    380

    Default Re: Deep hive foundation

    Instead of spending the money for those pins they sell, I use Bobby pins for my brood chambers. I run two deep and mediums for the honey, the mediums I wire, since I will extract them. Bobby pins would probable work Ok for that to though. They work very well and are very cheap.
    All beekeepers can agree on one thing, and that one thing is, that all beekeepers can't agree on one thing.

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