I am aware of no resistance issues with formic, oxalic, thymol or hop guard. All except hop guard have been in use for quite a few years now. Amitraz products, though still effective, have had some reports of resistance starting to show up.
Robherc; I can understand and respect your position in regards to treatment resistance. That does not mean I agree with it. Here in lies the secret to IPM. rotating treatments, and only treating when the infestation level warrants. This greatly reduces the probability of breeding for resistance.
Let me state it another way. Fair chance that the mites will increase in population. Too high and the colony will possibly collaps. If he treats he will most likely reduce the mite and virus loads, so he still has bees next spring. If he doesn't treat, and the hive collapses, what will he pay for a new package? $2.40. That's all it will cost to treat the hive with Hopguard. That's a lot less then the cost of a package of bees. It's cheap insurance. Good management.
Honey Luv Farm
My personal conviction is to try very hard to use no, or at least VERY little, chemicals in my hives & on my crops; that said, I believe others have that choice to make, or not make, for themselves, so long as they use responsibility & good sense if they choose to use chemical treatments
No, he's talking about Amitraz. Randy Oliver's website scientific beekeeping mentions it in a couple places. Randy comments on Amitraz loosing it's effectiveness in areas such as California. Around here we have not seen this happening yet. It will happen, it's just a matter of time. Please remember that continued use of chemical controls do result in a more hardy mite population. Nothing is 100% effective (and still have live bees) so those survivors are going to be tougher to control. I'm convinced the solution is in the genetics and that's the path I've chosen to pursure. But until I get to that point, I will still have to use something to control the mites chemically. I rotate treatments and test for mite levels several times a year. I take mite control VERY seriously.
Honey Luv Farm
I agree that 9 mites out of a 600 bee sample isn't a high number when the hive is building up. That's only 1.5% A 1/2 cup sample of bees = 300 bees.
Every hive has mites. It's a matter of keeping the mite population at a managable level. MAQS every summer before August 15th kills enough mites to survive the winter with no brood break here in California. If you don't treat with something, your hives will surely die. Small cell, essential oils and all other "old wives tale" remedies don't work.
I view them as good beekeepers who are lucky.
I think your mite counts are ok and you can wait until the flow stops. Our Tallow is normally finished by the first part of June. I treated last year with Apigaurd right after Tallow but, before Cabbage Palm with very good results. I would be very careful of using Quick strips this time of year in Fl. It can be pretty hard on brood and queens when temps get into the upper 80s.
Sorry for not responding. I wasn't getting notifications. Fixed that. Anyhow the bee inspector said it was time to treat due to deformed wing virus and recommended hopsguard. Said it was safe for use during the flow. We are in nectar now but it only gets better into July. Then seems to slow a little until Fall. We make honey just about year round here!
So now knowing that my bees have DWV. Should I treat?
Oh yeah. What the heck is MAQS?
"If nominated, I will not run; if elected, I will not serve."
My own feeling is that someone who seems to be consistently lucky is probably relying on something other than luck.
I don't think the available evidence supports this view.If you don't treat with something, your hives will surely die.
It's 74 degrees here. Is that too hot to apply MAQS?