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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    Shickshinny, Pennsylvania
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    858

    Default Rabbet joint question

    You guys building your own boxes , are you cutting a rabbet on both ends of all four boards 8 rabbets per box and then nailing or screwing only on one side of the joint.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Midland, MI
    Posts
    577

    Default Re: Rabbet joint question

    I make mine with rabbets in both ends of every board. i cut mine so that the short side fits flush with the end grain of teh long boards.

    here is a video clip of a guy assembling them the same way I do. around 1:20 or so you can see hime putting the pieces together

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=963BAT7OXtc

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Bertie County,NC
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    870

    Default Re: Rabbet joint question

    No that is not how I do it. I cut a rabbet for the frames to rest on at the top of the end boards, and then a 3/8 x 3/4 rabbet on the sides of both ends of the end boards. Then I just cut both side boards as plain boards with no rabbets anywhere.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Rader, Greene County, Tennessee, USA
    Posts
    6,188

    Default Re: Rabbet joint question

    Quote Originally Posted by laketrout View Post
    then nailing or screwing only on one side of the joint.
    Don't forget the glue!

    Titebond II or III is my recommendation. I dado just one pair of boards, the other pair is a flush cut. I staple from the rabbeted board into the flush cut board.
    Graham
    USDA Zone 7A Elevation 1400 ft

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Shickshinny, Pennsylvania
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    858

    Default Re: Rabbet joint question

    The videos I saw cut rabbets in both ends of each board , which joint is stronger .

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Walker, Alabama, USA
    Posts
    902

    Default Re: Rabbet joint question

    Quote Originally Posted by NewJoe View Post
    No that is not how I do it. I cut a rabbet for the frames to rest on at the top of the end boards, and then a 3/8 x 3/4 rabbet on the sides of both ends of the end boards. Then I just cut both side boards as plain boards with no rabbets anywhere.
    This is how I do it, too! And I believe this is the stronger joint. I use screws, not nails or staples, plus glue.

    HTH

    Rusty
    Rusty Hills Farm -- home of AQHA A Rusty Zipper & Rusty's Bees ( LC and T)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Hudson, WI USA
    Posts
    2,205

    Default Re: Rabbet joint question

    I do as Joe so 2 boards 19 1/8 x 9 5/8, and 2 boards 9" (for nucs), or 16 1/4" for standard 10 frame. For my rabbet I cut the same rabbet 3/4x3/8 to accept the side boards and as a frame rest. Your question "Which is stronger?" I don't know, but I can tell you that with Titebond 2 and nails from the end I haven't had a joint fail. So stronger I don't know, but strong enough I am sure of.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Bertie County,NC
    Posts
    870

    Default Re: Rabbet joint question

    I agree that they are strong enough done this way. I have tried them both ways, as well as I have built some with a modified box joint. I have had no problems with the way that I described, and it is so much easier to do this way, and alot less likely to make cutting errors.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Shickshinny, Pennsylvania
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    858

    Default Re: Rabbet joint question

    Adrian your using 3/4 x 3/8 rabbet for the end board joint and the frame rest ,I would think the 3/4 rabbet depth for the frame rest would put the frame down in the box to far and not allow enough room unless there is extra room under the frame haven't measured it yet .

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Hudson, WI USA
    Posts
    2,205

    Default Re: Rabbet joint question

    The frames lie low, but clear the ground when the box is resting on it. I find the ease of table saw setup makes it worthwhile.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Athens, OH
    Posts
    2,698

    Default Re: Rabbet joint question

    Quote Originally Posted by laketrout View Post
    3/4 x 3/8 rabbet for the end board joint and the frame rest ,I would think the 3/4 rabbet depth for the frame rest would put the frame down in the box to far
    I can't see where this would be a problem, as long as every box in the stack is the same.
    Politics is the entertainment branch of industry. -Frank Zappa

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Shickshinny, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    858

    Default Re: Rabbet joint question

    I agree running the same rabbet would be easier than changing back and forth but I was worried about the space for the bees under the frame . I'm using a table saw for my rabbets but wish I had a radial arm saw to cut my boards down to the smaller sizes .

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Grosse Ile, Michigan, USA
    Posts
    2,866

    Default Re: Rabbet joint question

    laketrout, I have had enough of cutting my boards to length using a table saw, so I think today I am going to go get a sliding compound miter saw to do the job, I see Craftsman has one on sale right now that looks to be what I need at a good price. John

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Bertie County,NC
    Posts
    870

    Default Re: Rabbet joint question

    you can cut all the boards to length with a circular saw...then rip them down to the right width with the table saw...then either use a dado blade or do like I do and use a regular saw blade on the table saw and make two passes for each rabbet. I always make my frame rest 3/8 x 5/8 and it only requires one extra change on the saw set-up. On a good day if my mind is clear I can start with just a plain board and in just a few short minutes have a hive body cut out and ready to glue-up and nail together.

    The way I do it is certainly not the only way to make boxes, but I think you get a great (very good) box using what I consider to be a very simple process.....sure beats paying for hive bodies and SHIPPING! Plus the woodworking and figuring out how to do other stuff is half the fun of beekeeping! I am going to be making a few more supers in the next couple of weeks and a queen castle as well....all using this same process. I am only second year, so all my stuff is fairly new, but I believe they will hold up just as good as boxes built with any other joint...and alot easier and faster to put together.

    OH and also be careful about cutting boards to length with a table saw...I was a carpenter in a former life and I had a board get crossed up just a bit that I was cross cutting on a table saw (in a hurry and used the wrong tool)....the board can come off the saw with great force and hurt you BAD...be careful or better yet use a circular saw to do the cross-cuts.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Jacksonville, Florida
    Posts
    1,673

    Default Re: Rabbet joint question

    I bought a hive body and super from a place that makes boxes commercially. They use the rabbit joint and I just copied each one. I keep them as patterns I never even take out a tape measure when I make my boxes. I set the saw up for each cut using the patterns then make all my cuts.

    But, to answer your question they are only rabbited on the short board. The long board is just cut to length and width.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Keene, NH, USA
    Posts
    227

    Default Re: Rabbet joint question

    I have made about 100 medium hive bodies/supers using the same technique as NewJoe. By drilling pilot holes through the rabbet joint, using TiteBond II and 10 nails on each short board, I've yet to have a joint fail. I finish using 2 coats of solid stain. The total cost of the wood for the 30 boxes I just made out of #2 Eastern Pine was $116. No shipping
    John
    7 yrs, 6 hives, TF for 6 years, small cell, moved to OAV this fall.
    www.honeymeadowfarm.com, www.nhbees.wordpress.com

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