I plan to take a empty frame with drawn comb and put in each of these new packages to hopefully get the queen to laying, but have never done the packages. Thanks for any advice.
I plan to take a empty frame with drawn comb and put in each of these new packages to hopefully get the queen to laying, but have never done the packages. Thanks for any advice.
Deeps work just fine. I use 10 frame deeps, with 9 frames. Just take a frame or two out, put the queen cage in with the candy between two frames, and dump the bees in, cover and let package sit in front of the hive for a while. Works good.
Thank you!
Many package sellers also provide instructions on how to install packages. Regarding the queen, some folks say leave the cork in the candy end for a few days before removing it, to keep her confined longer. Others say remove the cork from the CANDY end because she's already been confined with them in the package, and the bees will have released her in a few days. Personally I remove the cork from the candy end when putting the queen cage in the hive.
After you dump the bees in, gently replace any frames that you have removed. If you must, gently smoke the bees to drive them off the tops of the frames so you can place your inner and outer covers on the hive. DO NOT leave any extra empty space, as that is where the bees will start drawing comb, instead of on your nice foundation. Do not ask me how I know...![]()
Oh, and feed. They will build up faster and stronger if you feed them continuously until all ten deep frames are drawn out. Then I usually put on the second deep super, and keep feeding as long as they'll take it, or until almost all those frames are drawn out. Some beekeepers say that's foolish, and develops "dependent" bees, but my experience has been it helps the colony build up faster. You MIGHT get a surplus later in the season, but don't count on it. You want them really strong for next winter. Remember, it will be at least 20 days before you really start getting new bees, and the package bees are dying off.
Oh, and you're in Alabama - so you MUST install small hive beetle traps of some sort. Otherwise you will lose the colony to the beetles. Here in SE Missouri I use a minimum of two between-the-frame traps (Beetlejails, I think), per colony.
Regards,
Steven
Last edited by StevenG; 03-13-2013 at 11:22 AM. Reason: additional information
"If all you have is a hammer, the whole world is a nail." - A.H. Maslow
CC are you asking if you should put the package in a smaller nuc box instead of a full size deep hive body? If that is what you are doing, I advise cutting what are called follower boards and reducing the size of the box to help the package climate control it. Screened bottom boards are very detrimental to packages as they prevent the bees from heating larger patches of brood. I take it you have some drawn comb. The more the better to help that package get established
On frame spacing: I would run ten frames of drawn comb in a brood chamber. If I am drawing foundation, I shave the frames down to 1 1/4" so 11 frames can be placed in a ten frame box or 9 in an 8 frame box. It will help lower the amount of inevitable bridge comb that bees build.
I bought 4 beetle jails. Used one and let the other 3 sit in the basement and grew 2 packages and 3 nucs to over 30 hives last year. So, I don't necessarily agree with the declaration that "you will lose the colony" without a beetle trap. Keeping strong hives probably helped as much as anything with the SHB.
Understand, Greg, but please report back next year how one trap among 30 hives worked for you.
Regards,
Steven
"If all you have is a hammer, the whole world is a nail." - A.H. Maslow
I'm going to semi-hijack the thread if that's ok. What if the intention was to keep the package a nuc and not allow it to expand into a colony? Is 3lbs of bees too much in an empty 5 frame nuc (No comb. Either foundation or guides). I really want to add two nucs to the yard this year. I have one colony that should make it to spring. I can pull a nuc from them, but I'd like one more. Thoughts? Thanks.
It's like getting a puppy and saying you won't let it grow into a dog...
Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it."
My book: ThePracticalBeekeeper.com
If you expect inclement weather, a nuc will work fine, but they will outgrow it quickly. A follower board is a better idea, and if you and a screen bottom board, leave the sticky board in at all times until it's hot out. They don't like the light underneath either.
Same thing with cut-down splits. They will do fine in a nuc box, but will fill it up quickly and need more space. If you are growing a hive instead of maintaining a nucleus colony for later use, you don't want to slow them down any.
Peter
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