Just wondering because the push for plastic foundation hoe I would be able to remove multiple G cells from the frame or do they just go to waste? This is a newbee here wondering. Thanks
For me, that is the big downside to PF's. What I do is just move the entire frame with QC(s) into a nuc, leaving at least one QC in the mother hive and at least one per nuc. IF I have time, I'll check frequently on those w/ multple QC's to try and catch a newly-emerged queen before she kills the others in their cells. If I do catch them, I'll remove them to another nuc. Should they disappear during mating or otherwise fail to mate properly, they can always be re-combined. -js
Last year I put a frame of brood above a cloakboard to pull nurse bees up,put in the graft next day. they started them but tore them down, sure enough I had moved the Queen up. I found her and moved her back downI waited a few days before grafting again, I pulled the frame of brood up and there was 17 Q cells started. I left them till they were caped then made little push in cages 1inch by 2inch by 3/4 deep out of # 8. It worked good, this year I hope to try it on swarm cells instead of emergency cells. It is easier to intro a cell to a nuc but a virgin seems to just run in the front door
>Just wondering because the push for plastic foundation hoe I would be able to remove multiple G cells from the frame or do they just go to waste?
I have never found a way. I just use each frame as one queen cell, no matter how many cells are on it and the rest do go to waste... that's a good reason to use foundationless with no wires. They cut out very nicely...
That is what I figured but I was hoping that people like you had some secret nugget of info hidden away that would help with the potitional problem. I am tring to decide what foundation if any I was going to use. Thanks
I've done it twice, just using a hive tool and gently lifting/scraping the cell off the plastic foundation center rib. It worked just fine. One had a small opening where it was attached but I just gently closed it by pinching, it was very small opening like a pinhead. Both cells produced nice looking queens. The combs I used were virgin wax, drawn and laid in as being drawn, so I'm sure that made the process much easier to succeed.
I also have used a flexable putty knife and just push it under the cell after having first cut around it they come off very well and I too had to close the hole at the top/back by pinching it shut and the queens emerged very nicely. I did this on day 14.
I've successfully teased a couple from rite cell using an exacto knife. It was used comb that had several layers of pupae silk which aided in the process of holding it together. Success will go up after the cell is 12 days old. The queen should be done developing. Most successful was with a 25 watt soldering iron. I filed the tip to a flat sharp point/edge. Just take your time. Practice on some old comb so you get the hang of it before doin the Q cell. It stinks LOL. It goes pretty fast though. If you cut so there are "wings" on either side of the cell, you can place the cell between the frames and the comb holds it in place. Worked well for me. I tried and exacto attachment for the soldering iron. It does not work on the plastic. The thin blade looses heat too fast. Sometimes the bees fixed the holes in the foundation, drone usually, and sometimes they just used them as new access points. No matter. At least one reason why I have and am switching to natural comb
Rick
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