Frame Jig Plans.....

[brazosdog02]

I found some plans online a while back that were for a very simple wooden frame jig. Im not talking about the one with the springs. Im talking about the one that is 3 pieces or so, with the sliding bars. Does anyone have the link for it?

http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/framejig/framejig.htm


EDIT: Nevermind. Found it.

http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/downlo...ssemblyJig.pdf

[beesohappy]

Awesome pictures. I made one awhile back and really appreciate it.

[allniter]

I have one I made my slots a little larger so I could use [4] wooden wedges on cross bar --makes easier to get cross bar out --and it holds end bars tight

[Rader Sidetrack]

For those who would like to build a frame jig from the Beesource plans,
http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yo...-assembly-jig/

but are put off by the use of the long springs specified, its easy to change. I simply substituted two small bungee cords for the springs. The springs, or bungee cords, apply pressure to the frame ends to hold them in place before the top bar is attached. The jig works great.

[tommyt]

Rader
Can you post a picture of yours

[Rader Sidetrack]

By popular request, here are a few photos. This jig was built to be functional, not for entry into any awards contest.

Overall shot:

There are only 5 sets of the 10 possible 10 frame end pieces in place in the photo, and you can see the bungee cord used to apply pressure to the jig ends. Note that the upper jig end boards are not attached to the rest of the jig except by the bungee cords holding them in place. This allows those boards to apply pressure to the frame ends to hold them steady.

Here's a close up of one corner:

The photo shows an "ear" glued on to the movable jig end for the bungee cord to attach to. This ear was is not on the plans referenced and allows the bungee cord to be slightly away from the edges of the jig. This was done after I had assembled the rest of the jig and was looking for a way to avoid buying any springs. If I was to do it again I'd probably just make the ear pieces just an extension of the main movable board.

A view of the other side:

In this shot you can also see the lower "fixed" jig end board, with screws showing, just underneath the movable board with the ears. The fixed board provides structure to the jig and keeps everything together even when the movable ends are removed.

This jig was assembled from scrap, and I used the bungee cords (and the recycled baling twine they hook to) because I had it available for free. The frames and boxes that I built are are from recycled lumber, so they have also a "rustic" look.

P.S. The black work surface was scavenged from a giveaway treadmill from Craigslist. I got the treadmill for the motor system to build a future extractor, but discovered that the treadmill had a large panel of 1 1/4 inch particleboard covered with some sort of cheap formica-like surface to allow the belt to slip easily. The flat slippery surface makes a nice gluing/clamping table as excess glue easily comes off when dried.

[tommyt]

I like it

Thanks

[djastram]

I made a video of me assembling frames. I built the jig from the myoldtools website.

Hope it helps.

[sfisher]

I made the same jig you are looking at. I cut my boards to the correct measurements and it is tight. if you dont glue the jig together (just use nails) and if it is tight, the boards will seperate a little and everything works out. I use medium frames and after watching the above video I can see why its so tight. Since the end bars on the medium frames are shorter when you put them in the jig the thickest part of the end bar is all the way in the jig. After watching the video where he was using deep bars you can see that the narrowest part of the end bar (the bottom) is the part in the jig, not the top of the end bar(the thickest part)

[BMAC]

I made a video of me assembling frames. I built the jig from the myoldtools website.

Hope it helps.

Great video.

A couple thoughts for you.

Important thought. You didn't put in your cross staple from end bar into top bar. Important for prying frames out.

I think you could glue them faster if you line up all your tops and bottom bars and just dribble the glue accross the ends. Probably will not save much time but every second counts when you are doing 1000s at a rip.

[Ryanjax]

]I made mine about a week ago and it is a huge time saver. Being a first time bee keeper I got my kit and put it all together with nails the way it said to.....I'm a woodworker and thought to myself that there must be a better way so here is mine. Made from the same plans listed in the first post. I ended up running my cross bars through the jointer to remove about 1/32 to give a little more clearance but other than that is was a really easy project to build. Also, while wiring the frames the spool of wire kept birdsnesting so I build this little jig.....

PS, the bees get here in two weeks

PSS Can't figure out how to attach pictures

http://www.flickr.com/photos/3872576...7632873049150/

[Ross]

When people ask me for dimensioned plans, I always tell them to build it off of one of their frames. All frames are slightly different in thickness of parts and overall dimensions. Building the jig from an existing frame assures it isn't too tight.

[minz]

DJ, Great video, I am going to build one as soon as I finish up the covers and bottoms I have scattered all over the shop. I have been cutting and building from a stack of lumber I have in the shop and ended up with one short deep side and one long deep side. Now I am thinking all I need to do is rip the two pieces in half, do the cut out for the slides and I am in business.
Radar, I like the spring idea. Maybe if I cut a dato in one of the short sides of my box I can put a piece of wood and put the spring or wedge for a hybrid of the two jigs. I will give this some thought since it will be a loose fit in a standard deep I will be modifying.
RYanjax, beautiful work, you have some skills but without handles it is really going to be a bear to get the boxes apart without any handles. The bees are going to glue the boxes tighter than tight. Maybe cleats or a Wimpy cut out?
Ross, I have said it before but you are my hero. You actually follow up and post plans of what you do!

[Rader Sidetrack]

Ryanjax, you can post your photos here directly from your Flickr account by using Flickr's "Share" feature. Copy the BBcode Flickr provides, then come to your Beesource post. Click the "Insert Image" icon on the composing toolbar. Choose the "From URL" tab, and UN-click the box about storing locally. Then "paste" the BBcode from Flicker.

Here is the result using one of your photos:

\[IMG] IMAG0678 by Rrjax, on Flickr[/IMG]

Note that Flickr includes a commercial in the code they provide. Also, their BBcode feature is somewhat broken, at least as far as Beesource goes. Note the orphan [IMG] BBcode snippets.

You can experiment and learn how to clean up and/or remove that part of the BBcode, if you wish. Or you can get a Photobucket.com account and not have to put up with that crap.