Re: Frame Jig Plans.....
By popular request, here are a few photos. This jig was built to be functional, not for entry into any awards contest.
There are only 5 sets of the 10 possible 10 frame end pieces in place in the photo, and you can see the bungee cord used to apply pressure to the jig ends. Note that the upper jig end boards are not attached to the rest of the jig except by the bungee cords holding them in place. This allows those boards to apply pressure to the frame ends to hold them steady.
Here's a close up of one corner:
The photo shows an "ear" glued on to the movable jig end for the bungee cord to attach to. This ear was is not on the plans referenced and allows the bungee cord to be slightly away from the edges of the jig. This was done after I had assembled the rest of the jig and was looking for a way to avoid buying any springs. If I was to do it again I'd probably just make the ear pieces just an extension of the main movable board.
A view of the other side:
In this shot you can also see the lower "fixed" jig end board, with screws showing, just underneath the movable board with the ears. The fixed board provides structure to the jig and keeps everything together even when the movable ends are removed.
This jig was assembled from scrap, and I used the bungee cords (and the recycled baling twine they hook to) because I had it available for free. The frames and boxes that I built are are from recycled lumber, so they have also a "rustic" look.
P.S. The black work surface was scavenged from a giveaway treadmill from Craigslist. I got the treadmill for the motor system to build a future extractor, but discovered that the treadmill had a large panel of 1 1/4 inch particleboard covered with some sort of cheap formica-like surface to allow the belt to slip easily. The flat slippery surface makes a nice gluing/clamping table as excess glue easily comes off when dried.
Last edited by Rader Sidetrack; 02-26-2013 at 07:45 PM.
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