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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Waller County, TX, USA
    Posts
    146

    Default Frame Jig Plans.....

    I found some plans online a while back that were for a very simple wooden frame jig. Im not talking about the one with the springs. Im talking about the one that is 3 pieces or so, with the sliding bars. Does anyone have the link for it?

    http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/framejig/framejig.htm


    EDIT: Nevermind. Found it.

    http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/downlo...ssemblyJig.pdf

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Stockton, CA
    Posts
    306

    Default Re: Frame Jig Plans.....

    Awesome pictures. I made one awhile back and really appreciate it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    AUBURN IN.
    Posts
    89

    Default Re: Frame Jig Plans.....

    I have one I made my slots a little larger so I could use [4] wooden wedges on cross bar --makes easier to get cross bar out --and it holds end bars tight

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Rader, Greene County, Tennessee, USA
    Posts
    6,096

    Default Re: Frame Jig Plans.....

    For those who would like to build a frame jig from the Beesource plans,
    http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yo...-assembly-jig/

    but are put off by the use of the long springs specified, its easy to change. I simply substituted two small bungee cords for the springs. The springs, or bungee cords, apply pressure to the frame ends to hold them in place before the top bar is attached. The jig works great.
    Graham
    USDA Zone 7A Elevation 1400 ft

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Pinellass County, Florida
    Posts
    1,110

    Default Re: Frame Jig Plans.....

    Rader
    Can you post a picture of yours

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Rader, Greene County, Tennessee, USA
    Posts
    6,096

    Default Re: Frame Jig Plans.....

    By popular request, here are a few photos. This jig was built to be functional, not for entry into any awards contest.

    Overall shot:

    There are only 5 sets of the 10 possible 10 frame end pieces in place in the photo, and you can see the bungee cord used to apply pressure to the jig ends. Note that the upper jig end boards are not attached to the rest of the jig except by the bungee cords holding them in place. This allows those boards to apply pressure to the frame ends to hold them steady.

    Here's a close up of one corner:

    The photo shows an "ear" glued on to the movable jig end for the bungee cord to attach to. This ear was is not on the plans referenced and allows the bungee cord to be slightly away from the edges of the jig. This was done after I had assembled the rest of the jig and was looking for a way to avoid buying any springs. If I was to do it again I'd probably just make the ear pieces just an extension of the main movable board.

    A view of the other side:

    In this shot you can also see the lower "fixed" jig end board, with screws showing, just underneath the movable board with the ears. The fixed board provides structure to the jig and keeps everything together even when the movable ends are removed.

    This jig was assembled from scrap, and I used the bungee cords (and the recycled baling twine they hook to) because I had it available for free. The frames and boxes that I built are are from recycled lumber, so they have also a "rustic" look.

    P.S. The black work surface was scavenged from a giveaway treadmill from Craigslist. I got the treadmill for the motor system to build a future extractor, but discovered that the treadmill had a large panel of 1 1/4 inch particleboard covered with some sort of cheap formica-like surface to allow the belt to slip easily. The flat slippery surface makes a nice gluing/clamping table as excess glue easily comes off when dried.
    Last edited by Rader Sidetrack; 02-26-2013 at 07:45 PM.
    Graham
    USDA Zone 7A Elevation 1400 ft

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