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My first hives!

4K views 14 replies 6 participants last post by  Cub 
#1 ·
Brand new and ready for some bees. This is my rookie year, and a friend giving me two Langs as well.
 

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#2 ·
Looks good!

May I suggest that you take the time to fabricate a removable solid bottom for those TBHs? It can go under the screen, and I'm not saying it needs to be in place permanently, but I recommend that you have it in place when the package bees are first installed and keep it there at least until they have build comb and brood. There have been reports of bees absconding shortly after installation with open full screened bottoms.
 
#6 ·
Rader,

Do you mean the bees wont like the metal bottom? It's actually a full solid oak bottom, with a galvanized metal tray up under the screen that can slide out. It might just look like open because of the photo. What do you think about the entrance placement and size (1" holes)?
 
#3 ·
That is interesting on screen bottoms. I have two and have never had any problems. It maybe the problem was not the screened bottom, but how the package was installed. It needs to be done slightly different than for a lang. I could certainly see the bees leaving a new hive that is no more than an empty box if the queen is released too early or if there was no food available immediately upon release. Once the bees begin building comb there should seldom be a problem. But better safe than sorry.
 
#7 ·
I have one bee tree lined out, and am on several local swarm lists. If possible, I would like to use all feral bees. If not, there is a nice beek that lives close by that will supply me with nucs. The elevation the bees will be living is around 3000', so local is better.
 
#12 ·
>How much surface area is your entrance?

I actually cut a slot 4" wide by 3/4" high towards the bottom of both end pieces, and in all my follower boards as well. I fabricated a boardman style (inverted mason jar) feeder that fits in the slot, or when no feeder is desired a small block plugs the hole.

I did this on both ends of the hives so I could (with a follower board as a divider) put two smaller colonies in the same box, if desired. I also cut the same slot in my shorter TBH swarm traps. When used as a trap the slot serves as the entrance. If the trap is used as a nuc, the plug goes in and I use a top entrance, the same as the big hives.

My top entrances span the width of the hive body, 14.5 inches, and are 1/2" wide. I have on occasion reduced the length of the opening, but my hives wintered fine with the full length open.
 
#15 ·
Follower boards are added to both hives. I like the idea of being able to make splits and keep them both in one hive. Also, I am putting feeder slots, which can feed both sides at the same time if desired, in the followers. I'll drill a new set of entrance holes when the time comes. Thanks for the good advice.
 
#13 ·
I like my entrance on the side. It allows better air circulation and is protected from rain. I used four 1" holes. I chose to place my entrance about three or four bar width from one end. This seems to fit my management system better than a center location. The 1" hole is easily filled with a cork. I also added a landing strip for my benefit (not the bees they don't care). This gives me more of a chance to see what is being brought into the hive.
 
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