drat.. I thought you were going to try wintering in it....!
well that won't help me extract my head from...... are your hives raising brood yet???
If I was going to bury it, I'd probably paint it with tar first and then put styrofoam against the outside walls before backfilling. I would leave the top showing, but if you want to cover it with sod, I wouldn't put more than 6" of dirt on top, as it's not made to hold a lot of weight. If you put thick styrofoam there, you really don't need insulation inside. But if you want to, 2 x 2s would work and then put in whatever suits you for insulation. You can just run all the electrical in EMT. Nothing says it has to be hidden in a wall...
Also, my previous employer put this on top of his shipping containers that were used for material storage for eight-week electrical construction jobs.
I don't intend to bury it, the whole idea is to take it with me when I move.
The simplest would be my brother's idea which was to bolt 2x4's to the wall in the recesses of the corrugation. Then he attached foam board insulation to those and then plywood outside of that. But his idea involves putting a lot of holes in the envelope of the container which I don't like much. Perhaps there's a way to do it without puncturing things.
I've always had a passing interest in these structures.
No experience but a couple thoughts.
Insulating the floor and what you place it on is a factor.
Is there a flex factor in loading and moving? It seems they can get dropped hard.
Ceramic paint on the outside seems to be a popular choice.
Don't forget to ventilate it well!
You need to weld a bracket of some sort to bolt he walls to. I would use 2x3 studs to save room(every inch will count). I would also spray foam insulate within he walls and not worry bout moisture getting in. If you maintain the outside well enough you shouldn't have any leaks or moisture coming in.
My shop is already effectively 16x20. All I have to do is split it down the middle and put it end to end and I have a shipping container!
Outside moisture is of little concern to me. However condensation could be troubling. Though, this won't be like a house, heated all through the winter with loads of opportunity for vapor to travel through permeable materials. I only tend to use it for about 3 hours at a time in the winter and only a couple days throughout the summer. But still, going with the highest quality construction is my preference. I think I could do it with two or three of those $600 spray foam kits. My concern would be getting off ratio. I really don't want it off gassing for the rest of eternity. I store all my bee stuff in there.
>I've always had a passing interest in these structures.
I lived in them for about three years... I never took one apart, but I don't remember it looking like they drilled and screwed things from the outside. When I did see people working on them, they seem to be using steel and a welder for everything they were doing as far as structure. Steel studs might be the way to go and then screw sheetrock onto them. Insulation can be put between them (whatever kind you like).
I dislike the idea of wood touching metal. Wood is a poor insulator and good at rotting. The studs would effectively only be there to hold up the plywood I'll use in place of drywall. I would use drywall, but I want tough stuff I can screw into, attach heavy shelves to, and generally attach things so they won't fall over in transit.
What is the pressure rating for the blue polystyrene at Lowe's? Can it be used under the floor without causing any problems or do I need to seek out something more beefy?
Blue board has been used in homebuilt aircraft structure since the late 70's.
Provided you have a 3/4" subflooring sheet on top to distribute the force of point loads, you shouldn't have any issues with it.
if you want to trade time for expense on your walls, you might scab 2/2" osb up vertically a few inches form the walls and blow in foam.
The foam will adhere to the osb and secure it to the wall.
Chases for electric lines and such are cut with a router after the foam cures and and then filled with scrap and mudded over.
This is pretty much fabricating a structural insulated panel in place.
And, you never have t0 search for studs when you screw into the wall.
If money were plenty and time were not, I'd use construction adhesive to attach SIP 2x4 curtain walls to the walls/ceiling/floor.
Rolled foam strips or plastic washers can be used to create a standoff if you don't want wood in contact with the metal wall, btw.
It would also provide a drain space for any condensate. Properly placed weep holes at the bottom of the wall would prevent condensate buildup and corrosion on the floor.
If you have a budget for it and want experienced construction help on site, PM me.
given the cost of the orginal contanir, I hear 1000? and adding insulation, would it be better to find a couple of prebuilt sheds? they would have studs... I keep my stuff in a cpl of 10 by 12 prebuilts on skids......