I don't know that I would want them that camo'ed up. I would probably not be able to find them after I put them in place!
I don't know that I would want them that camo'ed up. I would probably not be able to find them after I put them in place!
Plant Hardiness Zone 6B, 5300 ft., Bee Zone A/B, Proverbs 24:13
https://www.facebook.com/mobileprotection#!/2RBeeFarm
I trap swarms, I don't steal swarm traps. With that fancy camo, you just have too much time on your hands. Quit ignoring Wotsee and take her to the park or zoo or something.
Plant Hardiness Zone 6B, 5300 ft., Bee Zone A/B, Proverbs 24:13
https://www.facebook.com/mobileprotection#!/2RBeeFarm
With that talent she should go to fine arts college. I might drive out some of mine for her to paint.
Plant Hardiness Zone 6B, 5300 ft., Bee Zone A/B, Proverbs 24:13
https://www.facebook.com/mobileprotection#!/2RBeeFarm
I was thinking of small holes around the edge. one every 90 degrees so that a small nail or screw could be used to pin it into position. If the metal is thin enough you can just punch your own hole at the edge. It would stink to make a round checking traps only to find the entrances had slipped closed.
Nice looking traps though.
I am trying to get a quote for the metal entrance disks from china. Not having much luck. I had a couple of members specifically ask me if I can get them. If I actually get into queen rearing like I am thinking I can use quite a few myself.
All work and no play makes a happy bee.
Frank, have you ever used a bottom entrance?
Lee Burough
I try to learn from my mistakes, and from yours when you give me a heads up :)
If there is a swarm looking for housing an empty nuc with a bottom entrance works out fine. I caught my first swarm entirely by accident in one.
But to move a newly set swarm it does help to have an easy way to close the hive, so most of my actual traps have 3/4 inch or 1 inch drilled openings, plastic needlework canvas and a tomato paste lid for adjustable closings.. And if the canvas has to be replaced each year, a 38 cent sheet will make about 100 closings, so I'm cool with that.
Bees in winter - new phenomenon, but I've got them... So far so good.
Lee Burough
I try to learn from my mistakes, and from yours when you give me a heads up :)
I have not tried a bottom entrance. It might be hard to see the closed setting when you pick up the box in the dark. I would think the bees would find it OK, although that dark hole on the font of a trap might be a good visual cue for them which they might will not see on the bottom. I have tried a top entrance and it worked fine. That was going to be Model #3 on this thread. Same good value, just use a deep box with some cheap thin plywood and drill a hole in the top. Use 1/8" hardware cloth as the closure.
Gypsi, What size needle work canvas? Do the bees fly through it?
OKay odfrank, I am ready for your 2013 challenge !!! number 1 trap of 35 to hang......... I may not snag a single swarm but it won't be for the lack of trying![]()
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Last edited by Dconrad; 03-14-2013 at 09:53 PM.
I got a report from San Jose that I caught my first swarm in the new model. It is great that the new swarm has ten frames and foundation, I will not have to drive down to service it for a few weeks.
NICE !!!!! I hope to get the rest of my traps out this weekend.
President, San Francisco Beekeepers Association
www.habitatforhoneybees.org
Coyote Creek Bees - Beekeeping for 2 years. Number of hives - 17
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I plan on putting out several deep boxes soon. I've caught swarms in the past using them.
I put old frames that I would otherwise throw out in my boxes with at least one old dark brood comb. Other frames, when I am motivated, get a medium foundation at the top.
I am toying with the idea of using window screen for bottoms on about 12 new boxes that I am going to put up. Anyone think this would make the box less desirable for the bees?
For openings I keep foam rubber handy at all times. It is great for stuffing in any shape entrance and stays put.
I've got a good supply of LGO. Does this really help get the box looked at?
Thanks
Howard
I don't think I would go with the window screens. Someone with more experience can chime in, but I think they won't like it. Use some coraplast if you can get it free. Coroplast would outlive the boxes and wouldn't be a fragile as the screen. Everyone says to use LGO, some say that it as good as QMP and it is cheap.
Do not use screened bottoms on swarm traps.
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