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This year's Odfrank Swarm Trap Models - 2013 year model #1

35K views 94 replies 29 participants last post by  delber 
#1 ·
Having passed through my five frame nuc box phase, my winebox phase, my Styrofoam fish box phase, my packing crate phase, my eight frame phase....I am now trying to get back to the basics. My goals this year are:
Make no superfluous equipment. I have enough five frame nuc boxes and they are to small for bait hives, but work adequately.
Make traps big enough to include some foundation to draw to eliminate the need to service soon after catching, and use a swarm's ability to draw comb.
Make them bee tight, for easy no beesuit moving.
Make them bee tight enough that my non beekeeper friend can move them.
Make them light enough that I can move them.
Make them a good value for expanding my apiary with minimal specialized investment.
Make them the same green color that makes Charlie B sick to his stomach.:D:thumbsup::lpf:

All of this years models are made from budget grade deep boxes. Model # 1 has a steel entrance disk for easy closure. It has a 1/4" thick luan top and bottom to minimize it's weight. The bottoms are screwed on, the tops will probably be also, but duct tape or straps might be used on other models. I will probably transfer the bees into plain boxes, but I can easily remove the bottoms and just place the box on a bottom with a good top. The inside will get an area treated with a slurry of wax, propolis and LGO spread around with my heat gun or painted on from a hot pot full of brew. Stay tuned for Model 2 and 3.



 
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#4 ·
Just that simple, I spread a patch of melted hive scrappings inside the brand new box to imitate instant aging, and sometimes melt a drop or two of LGO in with it.
 
#5 ·
Why would a 5 frame nuc be too small? Is it that they wont occupy it or is it that they build up and get crowded too quick? I just put up 5 5 frame deep traps up this past weekend. I put med frames w/ used plastic foundation (moving to all med this year), a swarm lure from mann lake and a little lgo around the entrance. I plan to cut off any burr comb that i know will be on the bottom of the frames.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Why would a 5 frame nuc be too small?
I have seen studies that determined approximately 40 liters (10 gallons) was the optimum volume for a trap. But, experience shows that swarms move into a variety of different sizes of boxes. Use what you have available. :D


Here's one reference, although it talks about a range of sizes:
http://naldc.nal.usda.gov/download/13794/PDF

In any case, I credit Ollie's frequent posts about his swarm traps (last year) for getting this then new beek to think that maybe even I could trap a swarm. :D And I built and placed 5 traps (about 8 gallons) on mine and my neighbor's properties. I was very pleased to actually a catch a swarm two weeks after I hived my two packages. Thanks Ollie! :thumbsup:
 
#12 ·
>Why would a 5 frame nuc be too small?
Immense swarms will pass them up.

>Thanks Ollie! :thumbsup:
You are welcome.

>Where do you get those entrance wheels?
Mine are from Kelley.

>We're in trouble this in this years challenge.
You guys never had a chance from the beginning.

Why five frame nucs are too small:

 
#13 ·
Here is Model #2. I ran out of thin paneling but have a lot of 3/4" plywood. Model #2 has an entry slot cut into the plywood bottom board that will be shut with a wedge of window screen for moving. It will be heavier with a top and bottom of 3/4" plywood. This model leaves the deep super unmodified, with no expense for the entry disc. And good news for Charlie, I used up all my green paint.

 
#14 ·
Are they all numbered 15-32? Did you use a router to do the number?
Do you still only put in one frame of brood?
I am getting ready to build some more but I was going to do the ‘bushkill swarm trap #2’ again this year. I did end up leaving some bees behind on one of the swarms but the other one was only a couple of cups of bees (both of them are still alive). I went 2/5 managed and one extra I gave a guy to take home.
 
#15 ·
It is a state registered apiary brand number.
I do not use brood, I use black comb.
 
#17 ·
That is a fact. If the hole is on the bottom make sure the nut is oh so tight. It took one huge swarm smothered to teach me that lesson. I should experiment with some kind of tightener washer. I prefer the entrance on the bottom, old habits are hard to give up.
 
#19 ·
I would think a simple lockwasher would do the trick in keeping the wheel tight. Those are some good lookin traps Ollie, I think i may make up some more that are similar once i hang up the ones I have. Going to try my hand at the swarm catching challenge this year :)
 
#25 ·
It is an old un-enforced law. If you went down to my county ag to register they probably wouldn't know what you were talking about. I did it way back in 1977? so I could brand my boxes with a good identifier. Again, I don't know if in this era anybody would know what the numbers mean.
 
#38 ·
Nice work!
I can't catch a swarm to save my life. Is there any chance of that Charlie could teach some beekeeping classes locally?
QUOTE]

MBeck, you should have no trouble catching swarms, you are in Florida. Last year I caught 5 swarms, learned how right here from Odfrank, Charlie, Michael Bush.

I put out 6 bait boxes last year and caught 5 nice swarms. Got surplus honey off 3 of them in fall. The only box that didn't get a swarm is because it was past swarm season by then.

I'm going to start putting out bait boxes by next week. Last year I caught my first 2 in early March, but there are bees swarming in Northern Florida now so I will start earlier this year.
 
#33 ·
Well, odfrank...I was wonderng why you were giving another guy so much crap, a month or two ago, about his "home made" traps. !
I DID THAT??? I feel terrible about that. Give me a link so I can apologize. I am trying to turn over a new leaf and be the kind, understanding, helpful odfrank. Not that old grump from the past. Charlie has really been helpful in helping me find my inner self.
 
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