That cost does not include foundation. I can make 50-60 unasembled frames per hour, 20-30/hour if assembling them.
That cost does not include foundation. I can make 50-60 unasembled frames per hour, 20-30/hour if assembling them.
Benjamin Schneider, 193 hives. http://prairiewindbeesupply.webs.com/
AKA BEEMAN800
Yes, ML's are $1.65 for unassembled frames. I have about $0.67 in each frame in materials. It comes to about $1.90 when paying myself well for my time.
Benjamin Schneider, 193 hives. http://prairiewindbeesupply.webs.com/
I see $.70 in the larger lots.
Even in the 400 lots they are only $.72.
My costs also get a bit lower when I buy in quantity. But I know what you're saying; you're right.
Benjamin Schneider, 193 hives. http://prairiewindbeesupply.webs.com/
I would like add a word of caution when splitting the top bars. Look out for the wedge it can come lose and cause kick back or take flight, good thing I had safety glasses on.
What do you mean by "splitting the top bars"?
Benjamin Schneider, 193 hives. http://prairiewindbeesupply.webs.com/
The quality on Mann Lakes select frames that are now being put together for our next season are some of the finest quality I have byfar seen in my 35 years in the business!!!
I have purchased quite a few frames from ML recently, and I'd have to agree with you. My frames work well, but in a pinch or on a spending spree, I definitely turn to ML!
Benjamin Schneider, 193 hives. http://prairiewindbeesupply.webs.com/
In pictures 10,11 and 12, when ripping the 1 1/2" strip of wood into two for the top of the frame the wedge can come loose and shoot out at you.![]()
Benjamin Schneider, 193 hives. http://prairiewindbeesupply.webs.com/
You MUST use a push stick to push through both pieces at the same time. The saw will cut through the foot of the push stick, so keep the push stick in the same place every time. (I typically put it against the fence and then I'm fine. You'll need a 1" wide stick for this purpose) It will save your thigh. A push stick or a piece that would sit flat on the top of the top bar with a foot (To catch the pieces) and handle on it would be even safer. Other than that you'd need to go slowly / carefully trying to flip the piece end to end to cut through the piece. (which would be risky for sure!!!)
Great job on the tutorial. As I begin making mine for this year, I'm thinking of removing the taper on the top bars. Every time I remove frames during inspections, I "free" SHB that have been corralled under the top bars. I'm going to experiment with a couple boxes to see if flat bottomed top bar ends would be too hard to remove when propolized by the bees. If I can remove this dead space under the taper, maybe I can remove a hiding spot for SHB. Has anyone else tried this?
Matt
I think you'd be fine to keep it straight. Kelly's makes their boxes so that the rabbit at the top has the matching angle so that there's no space there. The SHB do get inbetween the ends of the top bars and the box, however a hive tool does wonders to take care of them there as long as you do it before moving / breaking the frame free or else they'll just go down into the box. I have had bees propolis the whole frame around closing that gap. It was still easy enough to get the frames out.
Westernbeekeeper,
Excellent photos and explanations on putting it all together!Also, thank you delber for the advise on the push stick.
I'm thinkin I might just try this this weekend.
Jim
Benjamin Schneider, 193 hives. http://prairiewindbeesupply.webs.com/
Course by then there's nothin to live for!![]()
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Benjamin Schneider, 193 hives. http://prairiewindbeesupply.webs.com/
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