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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Des Moines County, IA, USA
    Posts
    128

    Default Warre's (hive feet) question

    I'm working on patterns for the legs that Warre mentioned that were two different heights, (100mm)4" and (150mm)6", and made out of cast iron.

    There are pictures and sketches in his book, but not very good detail.

    I think if I cast them in aluminum they could be strong enough with a thicker cross section.

    I'm leaning towards 1/4" holes for carriage bolts, rather than champhered holes for large wood screws.

    But the real question is should I shape them to have a lip so the outside corner of the hive bottom board fits up against it, making it easier to line it up to drill holes in the wood, perhaps be a little more stable and look something like the legs on some Queen Anne furniture?

    Or no lip and move the leg that little distance back further under the hive so the bottom board completely covers the verticle part of the leg? That would narrow the overall stance at least 1/2" maybe as much as 3/4" each direction.

    Thankyou for any comments or suggestions.

    P.S. I haven't settled on the final height either.

    Spring is coming fast.
    Push, Pull, or get Out of the Way

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    218

    Default Re: Warre's (hive feet) question

    Go with the lip, the patterns wont be any harder to make or mold. The slight increase in metal used will be worth it IMO.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Ann Arbor, Michigan, USA
    Posts
    9

    Default Re: Warre's (hive feet) question

    I notice that you are from Iowa; I am a Michigander. When I get started, I will make my stand higher--say, 1.5 - 2 feet. This is not my own idea, exactly. Chris Harvey, who lives just south of Traverse City, has his bees that high, and I will just follow his practice. A stand that high is above the herbs/grasses longer in the season (not so much grass cutting), but most importantly, it lets you get down on your knees and look up into the hive if you are using a screened bottom. You can thereby see how the bees are drawing out comb, and gauge when to nadir another box.

    Some very good videos and still shots of Chris's approach are at www.thewarrestore.com. Look at the extensive headings on the left sidebar, too. On that site's home page is a link to Chris's Facebook page, which contains a lot of timely comments by Chris and others.

    Best,
    Peter Collins

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Portland, OR, USA
    Posts
    635

    Default Re: Warre's (hive feet) question

    Here are the feet we make and sell with our Warre hives.

    warre-hive-windows-open.jpg

    They elevate the stand about 2.5" and work well, giving it far more stability than a standard Warre hive stand. In addition, they look great! I usually set my hives on a couple cinder blocks, or a stand using 4x4s getting them at least 1.5-2' off the ground.

    Best,
    Matt

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