Last edited by westernbeekeeper; 01-21-2013 at 02:16 PM. Reason: Fixed photos
Those are awesome! I like the fact that you can stack the hives closer. It that your own design?
Vice President, San Francisco Beekeepers Association
I think barry broke your link, i'm getting invalid attachment error.
Thanks guys! Yes, it's my own design. I made it in the best interest of those who palletize their operation by just putting bottom boards onto pallets (as we do) instead of using a standard 4-way pallet: and also for those few that have "large-ish" operations but are not palletized; they are easily moved with a dolly/handtruck, especially if using a self-levelling one.
They look nice.
I've been thinking about this recently.
Can I ask a few questions ?
Is your pallet special or modified?
How do the bottom boards lock into it?
What's the lip on the front for?
Why doesn't it have a fixed entrance reducer?
What type of dolly do you use to move hives?
H.Vander. Uses a similar system and posted photos on the link above.
His boxes look showroom!
Our pallets are just ones that we pick up for free around town; I think the dimensions are about 3'x4'. We just set 4 hives on each pallet, and it works quite well. We don't really have a system in which the cleats on the bottoms lock into the pallet. We use rachet straps, 2 per pallet, when moving hives, that run through the fork slots on the bottom of the pallet and over 2 hives. The "lip" is an entrance closure that is screwed to the front for safekeeping when not in use. When we need them, we just unscrew them and install them. They can be used as a closure or as a reducer, We use them mostly for reducers. I haven't used a dolly very much for moving hives, but I have done it. Just slide a normal fixed platform dolly between the cleats on the bottom and gently tilt the hive back and cart it up onto your truck or trailer.
When I had hives on bottom boards, 6 to a warehouse pallet, mine were flat on the bottom. I did not strap them to the pallet, so, some times they slide around on the pallet and sometimes off the pallet, when moving them w/ a skidsteer loader.
Will your bottom boards be stapled to the hive body?
"Most of my exercise comes from wrestling with pigs and beating dead horses."
We have most but not all of our bottom boards stapled to the first hive body; we're in the (slow) process of getting them all that way.
We rarely move them (we are not migratory), so we don't have a whole lot of problem yet.
Do you pound them in the side of the box and connected to bottom board or through the bottom?
I don't even understand some of the basic stuff yet!!
Nice bottoms - We are going to be building quite a few here in the next month and frankly these look better than what we have been doing. A couple of questions
1) did you have to drill pilot holes for the screws to keep the wood from splitting
2) are you entrances 3/8" with these and how are riseres fastened to the bottom board?
3) Glued and Screwed?
4) what would you estimate the labor time per bottom board?
I hate the hive staples to the super because of course they alway rot out there 1st so we went to screwing the bottoms to super. Takes a good long screw and of course if you need just a hive body can be inconvenient.
Nice work at any rate!
I just got in from building some boxes. I am going to put a divider in them and start them as nucs (should give me 5 double deckers) figured I would go solid bottom board and was looking for some plans. Figured I would run another rest down the center and leave a second opening across the back.
No where in your scale of operations. But some questions:
What is the board across the front for?
Did you slot your screw holes or drill them fast into the 2x4 cleat?
Biscuit, edge glue or just screw the boards to the cleats?
Do you have antelope I can come hunt in the fall? I hear there are more speed goats than people in that state!
“Why do we fall, sir? So that we might learn to pick ourselves up” Alfred Pennyworth Batman Begins (2005)
One thing that I have done and would never consider otherwise:
Once my parts are all cut out, I lay 2 x 4s out on the floor and prime all of the parts individually. Set them on the 2x4s to dry.
Then when I assemble I have a jig that holds the feet while I paint and staple the board together.
The paint seals up each piece and glues them together tightly for a lifetime.
The boards that I made in this manner over 20 years ago are mostly in perfect shape.
Think for a minute what bottom boards have to endure!! The really get the brunt of the worst condidtions in the hive for rot, glop, moisture, etc.....
Do you want them to immediatly start deteriation or would you like them to outlast you?
And painting them after assembly does not work.
Just try my suggestion and you'll see.
Do it once and do it for a lifetime.
One more comment on westernbeekeepers design that could go either way.
If you look at the picture, he has the foot below entrance all the way to the front edge of the bottom board.
My front foot begins below the front of the cleat. The entire front foot supports weight. Most of his front foot has minimal (some cantilevered at best) load on it because it is not under the box.
On the other hand I can see where this would protect the front of the board better than my design from impact.
I have exactly ONE hive more than you.
That makes my opinion beyond question.
2) Yes, the entrances are 3/8" and the rims are glued and stapled.
3) Yes, everything is glued with TiteBond III and screwed together.
4) If I made one at a time, I would estimate about 10-15 minutes from start to finish. It took me 2 and a half hours to do 50 bottom boards from start to finish.
2) I put glue on the top of the cleat and then laid the 1-bys on and then screwed them tight. No pre-drilling.
3) No glue where the 1-bys butt together, but as afore mentioned, the 2-bys are glued first and then the 1-bys are screwed to them. The 3/8" rims are glued and stapled.
4) You betcha! There are always plenty of antelope and tags for them. And yes, it is quite likely that they outnumber the humans here.
I get all my lumber at Sutherlands, which has wood for half the price of Home Depot or Lowes, and twice the quality.