The title says it all. What do you use? Why? Pro's/con's? Thanks!
The title says it all. What do you use? Why? Pro's/con's? Thanks!
Benjamin Schneider, 193 hives. http://prairiewindbeesupply.webs.com/
3/8". It works. Pro: keeps rodents out. Con: there is none.
Regards, Barry
3/4 here. I use a reducer in winter to limit the air coming in. I like to have a space under the frames where the dead bees collect in winter. I've had them pile up and block the entrance on the 3/8 side.
I built my last nucs with 3/8" openings.
BeeCurious............... Trying to think inside the box...
Should use the 3/4 side of the bottom board in winter and invert the entrance reducer. The 3/8 high opening on the reducer should be on the top side. This leaves a 3/8 high area covering the bottom board for dead bees before dead bees start to block the bottom entrance.
And with the 3/8 high opening mice can not get in.
If you always do what you always did, you'll always get what you always got!
I have two nucs setting side by side. one with 3/4 and the other 3/8. So far no observable difference other than how the bees tend to exit the hive. in the taller hive they tend to exit buy hanging upside down at the tip of the entrance and enter by walking in on the bottom board. on the lower entrance they all walk in and out for the most part. IN effect it is like the taller entrance provides a separate in and out door. I don't know that this makes any difference to the bees.
All work and no play makes a happy bee.
3/8ths with screened bottom boards.I even narrow the 3/8ths opening in winter and other times of scarcity.Small blocks of wood take care of that.
Thanks for the replies so far, everyone. Do all commercial/migratory type bottom boards only have the 3/8" entance. That's what we run in our commercial op, but my personal hives are on the 3/4'' side right now. It would be one less peice of equipment that you have per hive since you wouldn't need a reducer. I have seen some migratory pallets with a 3/4" rim. Of those of you that have a palletized operation, what do you use?
Benjamin Schneider, 193 hives. http://prairiewindbeesupply.webs.com/
My bottomboards are a commercial type I was taught to make before bees were all put on pallets. The entrances are 5/16" and nailed to the bottom of the brood chamber. It makes so many things easier and they are cheap and easy to make.
http://beekeeping.glorybee.com/shop/...atory-Top.html
We use this style, but we bought all ours used. They also have a 2" cleat on the underside of the ends instead of just a 1" cleat. P.S. GloryBee has the photos for their bottoms and tops accidentally switched. This link to the page is for the cover, but it has the pic of the migratory bottom.Might have to let them know about that.
Benjamin Schneider, 193 hives. http://prairiewindbeesupply.webs.com/
I can see how a 3/8" opening could get blocked. Especially if it was reduced on the ends with blocks of wood for winter.
I just have a hard time believing that a bunch of dead bees on the bottom board could keep live bees inside from exiting the hive. They chew through Styrofoam, wood, paper, etc., why would they not be able to move some dead bees?
Regards, Barry
Good feasible observation, Barry. I think you're right.
Benjamin Schneider, 193 hives. http://prairiewindbeesupply.webs.com/
And in addition you should also be leaving them a means of egress and return at the top of the hive in winter locations. Ventilation port plus entrance. So dead bees piled up at the bottom shouldn't be a concern.
"Tradition becomes our security, and when the mind is secure it is in decay".....Krishnamurti
I do, and then the bees proceed to propolize it closed, so I don't worry about it. Never lost a hive of bees because they couldn't get out of the bottom entrance.
Regards, Barry
I build all my own bottoms but I make the entrance 1/2" high as a compromise. John
Ok...not blocked for eternity. lol
All mine are 3/8" and another beekeeper I work with who uses pallets for bottom boards are 3/8" also. We both nail a 1" tall entrance reducer in front of the entrance with a 3/8" tall slot in it for further mouse protection. A few of my entrance reducers have already been ravaged but the mice have to get through 3/4" of reducer and 3/4" of pine to get to the hive. Still, when you see mouse damage you'll be happy you did something to prevent them from getting into your hives, namely an entrance small enough to prevent mouse intrusion. Also I have seen my entrances get plugged with dead bees but it seems that when and if the bees need a bigger entrance those dead bees get tossed out to accommodate the greater flow of traffic.
Supplier of mason bees and leafcutter bees - Zone 5a @ 4700 ft.
RWurster
Maybe they leave the dead bees there when it's cold as weatherstripping.
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