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3 Coats of Marine Varnish?

6K views 11 replies 7 participants last post by  LeonardS 
#1 ·
I decided to try burning some streaks on a few supers for a different look. How many coats of marine varnish should I apply.......I recall that someone was using 3 coats, but I will put on more if it will last longer. Winter is a good time for these projects!
 
#7 · (Edited)
Here is what I have done:
At least two coats, three is better. I don't use varnish. I use an outdoor Marine Spar urethane. Minwax Helmsman to be specific. Buy a gallon can and roll it. Don't use the spray cans. Although the spray is really easy to apply, it is mostly aerosol and not much in protective coverage. Spray cans are very costly
For a clear finish, I am now applying a clear natural stain ( Like Watco brand) to the bare wood before the urethane. It seems to hold up better in the wet weather and the oils in the stain conditions the wood. Let it soak in overnight.

Brush urethane into the handle area well. Don't worry about runs, you'll be going over it again almost immediately with a roller. I use a 1/2" nap weanie roller and put it in a big ziplock plastic bag in between coats.
Roll the rest on the box-don't brush it. Load your roller with urethane and start at the end grain box joint ends, roll slowly from the bottom up, pushing the liquid urethane in a pool above your roller. You'll see the urethane soak into the ends where the wood is the most porous. Then roll the remainder of that side of the box. Light coat, side to side-top to bottom, no matter. Just be sure to work it into all the wood. Move on the next side of the box and repeat..etc.
After a few minutes, go over the box with the same roller with no urethane on it to roll out any runs. Now watch out for runs around the handle area until it sets slightly.

Let it dry several hours before repeating with another coat. If temps are cool let it dry overnight between coats
If you lightly sand your box before finishing and use gloss spar urethane, your finished box will have a smooth as glass finish.
If you have some rough sawn wood and apply it on a horizontal surface, you can really slop on the urethane, LOL. Nice thick coats! Thin coat are necessary on smooth wood.

The trick is to avoid the runs.
Here is an example of the finishes. The mating nuc fence hanging mini double box's are burned with propane torch, then have one coat of Walnut stain applied to condition the wood. The 8 frame deeps have a Watco dark walnut stain applied first. Both have three coats of Spar urethane. Yo can see how glassy the smooth wood it. And these were not sanded.(They are all totally dry.)
I have a few turntables and stack my box's four high, then apply my finishes. This allows me to stand in one place and make good use of table space. I just spin the stack and apply.




If a few years later, you find your box is looking weak, you can easily take a propane torch and burn off the old finish This leaves the box prepped to paint or accept a new urethane finish.

I will say this, just like beekeeping, your hive finishes need to be climate specific. I hear in a hot climate like Texas, urethane will just crack. My climate in the Pacific Northwest is very wet and mild so it is a good method for me.

You area absolutly right, winter time is great for building and finishing! I've been building mating nuc box's and mini frames in the barn while keeping my eye on two very large girlfriends:)



Also made use of some of the plywood scraps left over from hive building..new nest box's for the rex rabbits.


They hang right over the compost piles



There was a thread here about meat rabbits I've been meaning to address. Just need a rainy day to take time on the computer to do it.

Hope this helps!
 
#10 · (Edited)
LOL, no, that is my composted horse manure and peat moss. Just mounded it up into two rows for the cages to hang over. I'll be digging it out and filling my pots this spring to grow tomatoes in.

Heres one of my favorites: Celebrity


And the rabbit poop lover Burpee's Porterhouse!




 
#11 ·
The answer to how many coats of varnish to put on is.. NONE. DO not start it. Depending on your location, it may last a bit longer than others, but its a recurring process to keep up with. Time is much better spent on other tasks. The cheap marine varnish may last you two seasons before you should recoat. The expensive a season or two longer. Once the base coat has worn down to wood, you need to strip, sand and recoat. Or.. if you dont care about looks, reapply over the old peeling varnish. Trick is to reapply before you need to strip and sand.

If you are hell bent on spending time on this, buy the polyurethane type varnish. Do yourself a favor and get the kind you do not need to sand between coats. Cetol is OK but some dont like the end color. Epifanes is well liked also.
My experience is with "Bristol Finish". First coat is usually dry within an hour or two and ready for coat #2. Though winter may increase dry time. 4 coats is minimal recommended, I would take the time and add 6 or more. Mix correctly or this will not dry right. Cannot stress that point enough. Use a foam brush and do not over apply or you will have drips and need to sand, sand sand. DO not try and put a ton on at once. Thin layers, drip free, build it up coat after coat. I would brush downward so any drips will be at the bottom and not run back down the box. Good luck, but be ready for an investment in time and a bit of material cost. It should look nice when you are done though.

Dan
 
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