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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    282

    Default Re: Honey house gutter

    Ian, I believe you're a member of the COOP. If so is it the COOP that requires you to have a CFIA honey house?

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    omaha nebr. USA
    Posts
    509

    Default Re: Honey house gutter

    They will check it with a camera!!!

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Amador County, Calif
    Posts
    3,121

    Default Re: Honey house gutter


    We may our drain, 80 feet long 1.5% fall on floor & 2% fall on drain. Cost... extra 5 hours of grading & forming. Clean up... put a square point shovel once or twice a year and shovel out the debree also use a 6 incg drain under the concrete floor.
    Last edited by Keith Jarrett; 01-03-2013 at 06:01 PM. Reason: adding
    NUTRA-BEE feed supplements

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Manitoba Canada
    Posts
    5,479

    Default Re: Honey house gutter

    Quote Originally Posted by Birds&Bees View Post
    Install a back-up prevention valve, 3 inch drains, should be no problem, if you don't put in the back up valve, just tell Sam you did, how is he going to know?
    ha ha ha, well, ya . Just going by what he told me, floor wash drains separate from sewer.
    Ian Steppler >> Canadian Beekeeper's Blog
    www.stepplerfarms.com

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Manitoba Canada
    Posts
    5,479

    Default Re: Honey house gutter

    just toured a honey house with a gutter just like yours Keith. He is very happy with it and I am thinking this is the way to go. Easy to sweep into, easy to clean. Beats the drains, I think. Not completely decided on it yet.

    Doc25, the coop requires registration by 2014.
    Ian Steppler >> Canadian Beekeeper's Blog
    www.stepplerfarms.com

  6. #26
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    4,643

    Default Re: Honey house gutter

    My small extracting room has one 8"X8" CI grate connected to a 3" or 4" drain. It was existing in my building partially built and connected to the municipal sewer. I plumbed in 4 - 3" elbows as a goose neck to stop sewer fumes and have had little clogging problems with it since 1979. I flush it with hot water frequently. I had to line the terracotta main this year due to roots about 100' away from the extracting room. I grew the culprit eucalyptus tree from seed and it will cost me a fortune before I head to the big guys apiary in the sky.
    That is if I don't head down to the other guys place.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Manitoba Canada
    Posts
    5,479

    Default Re: Honey house gutter

    ha ha ha

    od frank, I have been email a picture of a grate much of what you have described. Very slick, and a nice compromise between the long gutter and the floor drain.
    Ian Steppler >> Canadian Beekeeper's Blog
    www.stepplerfarms.com

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Manitoba Canada
    Posts
    5,479

    Default Re: Honey house gutter

    >>Hi Ian!

    I saw your question on beesource about "Honey house gutter."
    I have a extracting room with a gutter centered in the middle of the room.
    Might take some better pictures of how the stainless steel drains / (gutter) look if you're interested. I think it works as expected.
    You can find more information here:
    http://www.purus.se/gl/Products/channels/

    I am very impressed with your blog and what you write on it.

    Hope it can be helpful.

    Can you also link to www.agreb.se
    I hope that in the near future to have the page in English.

    Cheers!
    Ian Steppler >> Canadian Beekeeper's Blog
    www.stepplerfarms.com

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Manitoba, Canada
    Posts
    394

    Default Re: Honey house gutter

    I have 6 foot gutters in the extracting room and the hot room. The one in the extracting room is located about 4 feet from the extractor running parallel to the extractor. If I were to redo my extracting line I would seriously consider putting in under the extracting line. Cleaning out the gutter would be more difficult but I only do so a couple of times a season anyway. I would probably put it a little off centre so it wasn't directly underneath the auger. This location would make wash downs done during the day easier I think. A longer gutter in the extracting room would make cleanup quicker and easier -- especially spot cleans.

    In the hot room the gutter is in the middle of the room. We use the centre of the hot room for traffic and store the full supers on each side. Makes for very easy clean up.

    I didn't put a drain under the spin float and greatly regret not doing so. I'm squeegeeing water a long way when cleaning that area.

    My gutters are only about 1/2 an inch deeper than the drain outlet. The drains are 3 inch and lead to a sump. The wash basin by the extractor drains into the sump as well. I get quite a bit of wax in my sump so the pump has to be positioned right so it does not clog. The wax gets skimmed periodically. Initially I pumped to water into my septic tank, but after I clogged a check valve in the sewer line I just pumped it straight outside (right to the site of my ejector anyway).

    Drains would work well too I imagine but it is nice to be able to squeegee to something bigger like a gutter.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Clay Count, Missouri, USA
    Posts
    811

    Default Re: Honey house gutter

    Might want to research products and configurations used in city owned dog shelters for ideas. Floor coverings, drains, moisture control, ventilation, wall or baseboard products. I've been involved in building a few and if you can find a set of prints they should have listed specs. that could give you more ideas.
    Try living life with the attitude it's not about what you want to do but what you should do!

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