Looks like a nice inexpensive way to make tops.
Question:
Why make such an "overbend" cut in the jig if a 90 degree angle is desired?
My thinking is that a slight over bend cut would work well.
The ones you have appear to be around 45 degrees.
I'm not sure what angle I made on the bending jig. It does look close to 45 degrees. It works for me. Look at the last picture and you can see the results.
How does the folding work? I have a roll of galvanized sheet tin and the first bend worked well on both sides but the ends made it look a 2 yr old wrapping a Christmas present. Is that why there is two jigs? One for each length? Do you put another piece of wood to fold it or hit it with that BA hammer on the sheet goods of pick 5? Good post, I asked about this twice already and this is the best explanation I have seen. I went cheap and got the heavy galvanized rather than the aluminum.
I use aluminum flashing and it bends well. I can just fold it with the palm of my hand. I use two bending jigs. The first is the full length of the sheet. The other is shorter than the sheet by the dimension of the bend on each side. My bends are about 1", so my second jig is 2" shorter than the sheet.
Ralittlefield, good post, and really nice shop setup. Where did you find your aluminum flashing. Ive looked around town and most everyone has just galvanized. I figured i would just have to break down and buy it online when it finally comes to that. And i also want to at least put it out there, could a person use 7/16 osb for their top instead of exterior plywood? Especially with the metal cover? I built a topbar hive (why i dont know) and used osb with a couple of coats of solarflex roofcoat white paint. No metal. I will be interested in how long this will hold up in he texas heat. And from what ive read. osb quality nowadays is really good and stable.
I got my flashing at a surplus/damaged goods outlet. They had 2 50' rolls and 2 10', the prices were pretty well discounted so I bought all of it. Next time I need some, I will probably have to pay the long price at a lumber yard.
I like the idea for the jig, sure beats my pliers and hammer setup. I use aluminum coil stock, I pick up ends and pieces off jobsites, leftovers from the siding guys. You can cut it with regular utility knife, no saw needed.
whiskeytripping...If you want an OSB type of top, that will hold up without metal cover, use ADVANTEC. I use it for tops for nuc and regular hives for feeding with gallon and 1/3 gallon jars through the top.
Roland You can also just have a friend in the carpentry business bend them for you, using a brake. Amazing what a jar of honey will get you.
Mr.Beeman......Others.... They also make that coil stock in a textured finish, multi colors available, for about $110.00 for a 2' X 50' roll. For those who have multicolor boxes, these colored tops are a nice finishing touch. If you make your top 22" long, the 24" width will make 25 tops from a 50 foot roll, ($4.40 a top for the metal.) Or as Mr.Beeman says, the white (plain) would be $2.80 per top.
I also get a lot of 1 X 12 pine, cutoffs, from roofers and builders, for a jar or two of honey.
I'm having a hard time figuring out how a roofer or builder has 1X12 pine cutoffs. Any help? 1X12's are rarely used around here. Everything is sheet goods.
Barry... For years the overwhelming majority of roof sheeting, concrete forms, bird board, window and door trim, and other usage was 1 X 12 pine. Some roofers are going to a plywood type of wood, but, most still use 1 X 12 for sheeting.
1 X 12 is used almost exclusively on outbuildings, sheds, barns, garages, etc. Still lots of 1 X 12 available.
Im sure when i start getting jars of honey it helps with the whole bartering process quite a bit. So pretty much you still recommend the 3/4" plywood for the top. And a PT plywood for the bottom board? And basically for the top you can get the cheapest 3/4" plywood you can buy probably? Or does everybody get the sanded on one side (sanded side facing the bees) plywood which is a little more expensive
I've used anything from 3/8 ply to 7/16 osb. Bees don't care much. Primarily the ply is used to add support to the aluminum covering.
3/4 will give you a real heavy cover... may help with a srong wind to keep the cover on.
I always use 3/4 plywood. I like the extra weight with 3/4 plywood.
I use all kinds of used plywood as long it is the right size and not totally
rotten, a little bit grey is OK. I making a few tops with some furniture graded
plywood that a friend gave me. This makes nice looking tops. Actually you only
see the plywood if you take the top cover off.
Roland... I was just kidding after reading your post about ..... " if you are lazy you could order from Dadant." My comment was meant to be in that same vein,... get someone else to do it for you. Bribe them with a little with honey if you have to.
Hey Cleo, where did you find that advancec? I found some 3/4 tongue and groove what i call OSB at home depot in the building materials. It said OSB on the home depot tag, but is this advantec? Ive really only seen OSB in 7/16" until i ran into that 3/4" tounge and groove
Call ahead first. I had several dealers here in the area and stopped in on the way home from work. I was pretty much told that the have it in a warehouse in Washington and can get me a ‘load’ in a few days. I only wanted to try a piece or two but you guys may be able to take more.
I've built them with both, aluminum and galvanized. The Alum is easy to cut, I just score it and bend it to break, them tap fitted it around each lid with a hammer . Not hard at all.Galvanizing has a bad memory makes bending alot harder..
do any of you guys have the dimensions of the tin before its bent
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