Here is how I am winterizing my hives this year. My area is pretty wet-so I needed telescoping covers for better protection. A 2" piece of rigid foam allows me to push the hives together for a clustering effect, but allows Just enough room for the overhanging tops. Insulates and cuts wind just a bit. I am not in an area that has extended cold temps. I average 40-45 degrees with periods in the 20's occasionally. There is rarely a week that goes by the bees can't come out for a cleansing flight.
So heres the deal with the foam. Unlike last year when I cut each piece to fit, then had a messy pile of foam to store over the summer. (Luckily, I was able to use all that old foam to insulate my newly made telescoping covers)
This year I cut the 4x8' sheets into uniform 20" x 24" pieces. 20 " so they fit flush with the front and back of the hives. Then if I want to, I can run a long half sheet (24" x 8') along the back if I want more protection in the case of a long cold snap.
Use a filet knife, straight edge and a carpenters square. Score it, then make a few passes to cut through-hold the knife vertically to avoid a slanted cut.
Here is a close up of the tops:
Not all of the foam is tight to the hives, but I didn't want to break the propolis seal to straighten up the slightly crooked box. I could tape up this gap or add foam to the back if I was worried about it.
Another bench:
So, out of a 4x8' sheet, you will get 6 -20x24" pieces + 2-16"x24" pieces.
or you can cut 4- 20x24" pieces and cut 2-35"x24" pieces for taller hives. Theis photo shows their uses. ( My taller hives are divided deeps for 2 colonies)
Everything is kept at a 24" width for easy stacking later.
At this point you could wrap the 'unit' with tar paper, if you wanted more protection. I was not interested in peppering each individual box with staples, I'd have to pull out later.
The rachett strape were the single cheapies from Home Depot. They are 15 feet long, and as you can see, perfect for using the tail end to secure the end pieces of foam. Just tie off to the other side of the strap in front. Otherwise, I use bungie cords to secure the ends.
I think about wrapping hives, then I see tons of photos of hives covered in snow with no wraps at all. Depends on your climate, for sure.
When I get a few decent warmer days, I am going to add sugar to the tops of almost all the hives..some just for insurance. We had quite a long warm fall and some of the colonies ate into their stores.
I add 3 cups of cider vinegar to 25# of sugar..+ about a 1/2 teaspoon of electrolytes. I dump this barely dampned, soft sugar mix onto the newspaper on the top bars. The bees relish this mix and eat it even when they have plenty of honey. I have good ventilation so the moisture dissipates quickly and is not a problem. I wouldn't add moist sugar in the dead of winter when temps are low, however. You can make sugar bricks with the same stuff, then apply. I dry them in my food dehydrator in that case.
Here's some photos:
That is dry bee pro on the top and bottom of the sugar brick
It will harden and dry in a few days, but overnight in my Cabelas food dehydrator. I set it about 90 degrees
Once that feeding is done, I will finish any additional winterization and leave them alone for the next few months. That's another reason I like the full 2" foam. Just pull it out and you still have enough space to easily get into the box's if you need to.